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Discussion Starter #1
Im looking to get all my visible bolts plated with the exception of my fairing bolts which i will be buying new from pro bolt. I will be getting my rotor and caliper bolts plated so i have some concerns that the chemical process might weakening the bolts.
 

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Plated in what, chrome?
If so, consider replacing a few bolts at a time with Pro-Bolt stainless.
Will last a lot longer than plating, which can peel if not done properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Sorry guess I shoulda been more specific, looking to get them zinc or cad plated

I just did a rough estimate with pro bolt for stainless it would be around $400, that's a little more than I'm wanting to pay lol, I found a place that would do a minimum charge of 150 of up to 100lbs of bolt, that's getting closer haha
 

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Anodising won't weaken bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So i probably shouldn't send them my chain adjuster blocks? :( They're only $40 from pro bolt so i guess ill just buy new ones
 

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As long as if they were aluminum that is....:)
Really? So do you mean nickel plated bolts are weaker than not?
I'm kinda surprised to hear, as I was using 25 year old BMW nickel plated bolts to attach pullies to camshafts yesterday. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
So I've been doing a little research on this and I've heard alot of different things lol, apparently Cad plating wont weaken a blot? Zinc plating will weaken a bolt? but it might not if you get the hydrogen embrittlement done to it? but only if the hardness exceeds 31 on the rockwell scale? Very confused at this point, are there any metallurgists on the forums?
 

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So I've been doing a little research on this and I've heard alot of different things lol, apparently Cad plating wont weaken a blot? Zinc plating will weaken a bolt? but it might not if you get the hydrogen embrittlement done to it? but only if the hardness exceeds 31 on the rockwell scale? Very confused at this point, are there any metallurgists on the forums?
Andy time to step-up and explain molecular physics...;)
 

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Really? So do you mean nickel plated bolts are weaker than not?
I'm kinda surprised to hear, as I was using 25 year old BMW nickel plated bolts to attach pullies to camshafts yesterday. :D
You mentioned anodising, or anodizing anyways. So I guess I thought you were referring to aluminum then. :)
 

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Well.....don't know about molecular science and all Tom, but I did get an educated response from my Metallurgist co-worker.......

...."Cad plating or Zinc plating, if done wrong, can embrittle a bolt.
This is more likely from acid cleaning process to make it stick to the bolt.

Proper hydrogen embrittlement relief, within 2 hrs/4 hrs of plating, can eliminate the potential.

Hardness > Rc 45 is where the susceptibility increases a lot .

Mil spec and aerospace fastener specs cover this topic well."
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the info guys, does anyone know of a place that will do small quantities? Having trouble finding someone to do it, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Wanting to get them plated because some of them have some oxidation on them, and others just don't look like new lol, don't want no old bolts ruining the look of my bike ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I just did a quick estimate with partzilla for new oem bolts and nuts and i stopped when i got over 350, I would much rather send 5-10 lbs of bolts to a place that has a $150 minimum charger, i got 3 other bikes that i could tear down and send them to for the same price. But i still may buy new oem or ti pro bolt for my calipers/rotors so i know they'll be strong.
 

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FYI, the pro bolt stainless bolts get torqued to a different value than the oem bolts, usually about half. For that reason, I'd only go with their titanium ones for things like the brake calipers/rotors/axle pinch etc.
FWIW Pro-bolt uses the same max torque guide values for SS and titanium, so if you don't think their 316 SS bolts are strong enough then the same applies to their ti bolts.

My included bolt info guide notes that 316 SS is suitable for caliper mount bolts, axle pinch bolts, rotors, amongst a bunch of other applications listed.
 

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FWIW Pro-bolt uses the same max torque guide values for SS and titanium, so if you don't think their 316 SS bolts are strong enough then the same applies to their ti bolts.

My included bolt info guide notes that 316 SS is suitable for caliper mount bolts, axle pinch bolts, rotors, amongst a bunch of other applications listed.
They are probably just covering their asses. A friend ordered some stainless rotor bolts for his vtr after he saw some of my titanium stuff on the RC51. When he went to torque them, the heads stripped very easily and way before the OEM torque value was reached.

Of course they included a torque guide like you say, but who reads directions to effing bolts? And what is curious is how soft their stainless is when compared to OEM (which is usually the cheapest shit you can find).


They used to say that their titanium stuff was able to be torqued to OEM specs, so I don't know when or why that would have changed?
 
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