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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 04 race bike came with a relocated battery box made out of diamond plate aluminum. It was mounted to the right of the front exhaust header. It did NOT fit inside the bodywork, so the PO just cut out the fiberglass lower so the battery box would fit. Looked very shoddy. So I moved it today.
I used the same aluminum box, but used new aluminum flat stock to hang it from the oil cooler mount and a simple L-bracket from one of the oil pan bolts at the back of the box. Now it fits inside the lower cowl, and I still have room to take off the oil filter with no issues. I can also reach the positive terminal with out removing the lower to make for easier charging and voltage testing.
I moved the starter solenoid to the left frame inside of the radiator. Tomorrow I get to make a new positive terminal and wrap this job up. I still want to fiberglass the lower where it was cut away for the previous battery location.
I may drill some big holes in the box so the battery doesn’t get hot. I am trying to not worry about the heat since I will be moving and it is in the cool air flow. Only time it could get warm is on the start grid. I may wrap the battery in insulation just in case.
 

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My 04 race bike came with a relocated battery box made out of diamond plate aluminum. It was mounted to the right of the front exhaust header. It did NOT fit inside the bodywork, so the PO just cut out the fiberglass lower so the battery box would fit. Looked very shoddy. So I moved it today.
I used the same aluminum box, but used new aluminum flat stock to hang it from the oil cooler mount and a simple L-bracket from one of the oil pan bolts at the back of the box. Now it fits inside the lower cowl, and I still have room to take off the oil filter with no issues. I can also reach the positive terminal with out removing the lower to make for easier charging and voltage testing.
I moved the starter solenoid to the left frame inside of the radiator. Tomorrow I get to make a new positive terminal and wrap this job up. I still want to fiberglass the lower where it was cut away for the previous battery location.
I may drill some big holes in the box so the battery doesn’t get hot. I am trying to not worry about the heat since I will be moving and it is in the cool air flow. Only time it could get warm is on the start grid. I may wrap the battery in insulation just in case.
Im restoring a race SP2 & your battery box position is different from the 2 other positions ive been looking at - is your loom or exhaust preventing it from being located behind your fuel tank in a subframe cradle box or on its side above the Generator ? Are you running any — or all- of the HRC kit parts and be interested in knowing what works ( & what doesnt) on the track- Thanks

136000
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The battery was relocated to the right of the front exhaust and had the lower cut out to fit the battery when I got the bike. It is a factory harness that has been hacked up every where. My space behind the tank is filled with electronics and all of the wires have been rerouted. A small piece of fiberglass separates it from the shock and exhaust. I kept it close to the same location because the wires fit. I did have to make new cables.
Your subframe and electronics look different than mine. I have no HRC parts that I know of.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I made new cables and rewired the battery to the solenoid and ground. Everything is inside the frame and not touching oil lines. I hope I can get behind the radiator to access it now that I think about it.
Getting closer to starting it since my last race in September.
 

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I made new cables and rewired the battery to the solenoid and ground. Everything is inside the frame and not touching oil lines. I hope I can get behind the radiator to access it now that I think about it.
Getting closer to starting it since my last race in September.
Interesting stuff - its quite a tight package to get everything nicely tucked away yet gain access in between races if a fault occurs. What sort of power do you think you have out of it & what race series are you running it in and against what other bikes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi ****, I can still access my positive terminal with the lowers on even though it is not hard to drop them with a few Dzus fasteners. Thats good since I like to keep it on a charger. I have a Durbahn stator and flywheel that doesnt charge at low RPM. I havent blown a fuse yet on the starter relay, so am not too worried about access. It’s not hard to loosen a radiator and swap a fuse if I need to.
I will be racing the Midwest series of CCS. Last year I did the Amatuer 40 and over class against any machine, heavyweight super bike: against big twins and 750s and 600s, and GTO (twice the laps of a sprint race) against anything over 600cc. I have to admit that it is really hard to keep up with a modern 1000cc four.
Last year was my rookie year. I started off the season in last place on a crappy running machine that broke every weekend. I finished the season on the podium. I finished overall in Formula 40 in 2nd, GTO in 4th, and Hvwt SB in 9th (mostly because I missed so many races since my bike broke by the end of the weekend). I have done a LOT of work to get this bike reliable over winter, and am hoping for the best this summer.
I also ran a single AHRMA weekend at Blackhawk Farms in Beloit Illinois last year. It was mid summer and I got some coaching that weekend. I finished 3rd on Sat and 2nd on Sunday in the 1000cc twin class. I also raced against the big twins and did OK with a best place in 4th. Those bike have quite a bit more HP and there are some national caliber racers in that series. I was able to drop my lap times by 1.5 seconds since then, so I am hoping for a good result this summer if all goes to plan. I may do another AHRMA race at Gingerman in Michigan. If my season is successful, I might have the balls to try the season final at Barber.
My bike dyno’d at 123hp. I’m taking it back to the same dyno soon for another tune and hoping to gain a few more HP. I will see what my new exhaust will do for me.
 

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Hi, Li-Po is sensitive to heat. Sure, it's only for trucks and can't be used on public roads, but as Ducati does,
lead-acid batteries can be used without problems.
I don't know why Honda conservatively put it under the seat, but I plan to put the lead battery in that position as well.
 

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I wouldn’t wrap the battery completely but I have basically same battery location and used the DEI gold reflecting tape on the battery box and the area close to the header pipe. Additionally I had Jethot ceramic coat the header. I’m running a Anti-gravity battery with no heat issues so far. Let the bike idle for 5 minutes and read temp of 125F on the battery box and figure it’s a lot cooler when you’re moving.
 

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Hi ****, I can still access my positive terminal with the lowers on even though it is not hard to drop them with a few Dzus fasteners. Thats good since I like to keep it on a charger. I have a Durbahn stator and flywheel that doesnt charge at low RPM. I havent blown a fuse yet on the starter relay, so am not too worried about access. It’s not hard to loosen a radiator and swap a fuse if I need to.
I will be racing the Midwest series of CCS. Last year I did the Amatuer 40 and over class against any machine, heavyweight super bike: against big twins and 750s and 600s, and GTO (twice the laps of a sprint race) against anything over 600cc. I have to admit that it is really hard to keep up with a modern 1000cc four.
Last year was my rookie year. I started off the season in last place on a crappy running machine that broke every weekend. I finished the season on the podium. I finished overall in Formula 40 in 2nd, GTO in 4th, and Hvwt SB in 9th (mostly because I missed so many races since my bike broke by the end of the weekend). I have done a LOT of work to get this bike reliable over winter, and am hoping for the best this summer.
I also ran a single AHRMA weekend at Blackhawk Farms in Beloit Illinois last year. It was mid summer and I got some coaching that weekend. I finished 3rd on Sat and 2nd on Sunday in the 1000cc twin class. I also raced against the big twins and did OK with a best place in 4th. Those bike have quite a bit more HP and there are some national caliber racers in that series. I was able to drop my lap times by 1.5 seconds since then, so I am hoping for a good result this summer if all goes to plan. I may do another AHRMA race at Gingerman in Michigan. If my season is successful, I might have the balls to try the season final at Barber.
My bike dyno’d at 123hp. I’m taking it back to the same dyno soon for another tune and hoping to gain a few more HP. I will see what my new exhaust will do for me.
Great account of your rookie race year & sounds like you are mixing it with the big boys even tho they have more power & hope your hard work pays off this year with reliability, consistency & some more power .I know what you mean about the benefits of coaching- I was fortunate to have 2 days coaching from Simon Crafar at Aragon Spain & 2 further days at Le Mans France about 6 years ago and it generates such confidence following these professionals & ( trying) to ape what they do to run the corner speed, braking & throttle responses that seems to come so naturally to them. What sort of air-box & intake snorkel are you running & does the durbahn stator / flywheel help spin up the motor out of turns?
I have a small remote battery on one of my race bikes with a slave Anderson SB connector that I can run a slave battery to aid the start up which really helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have an aftermarket carbon intake and Moriwaki air box with no filters. I believe the motor revs up quite nicely related to the flywheel/stator and billet clutch. It makes my stockish motor SP1 feel like a tractor!! Last year I was off the start line much better than another RC51 at an AHRMA vintage race. I never really saw him again after that so I dont know how his bike really ran. It may say something about my bike, or the difference between me and him.
I am going to look up the slave battery system. It may help with the charge while starting and getting it to warm up. I have a spare car battery sitting around. Is that too much amps for this starting system to parallel it while starting and idling during warm up?
 
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