RC51 Forums banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
238 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
okay so im riding along yesterday and was pinning it with no problem. went to snap a wheelie in 2nd and i get this chopping out, the bike doesn't die but when id do the normal pop of the clutch while i rev, the bike goes up, i ride a couple of seconds and get this rough choppiness that makes the front end come down, then the engine resumes normally. it happened a few times. i did just do my stator and then power washed the bike like crazy to make it pristine prior to this happening. then, today i go for a ride, it runs normally again, i find a nice straight away, go to pop the clutch again to do another wheelie, then it cuts down to one cylinder and has very little power. about 40ft or so it completely dies on me and the oil light came on. the oil is brand new with a new filter, done when i did the stator. i have no prior feeling that anything mechanical was going out and when the bike died i didn't hear anything break or seize. i was able to restart the bike once but it had low power again and seemed to turn over smoothly, then the battery died. i pushed it all the way home like almost 5 miles while everyone slowed down to look at me and not help me out, crazy how people are these days!!! anyway, what im asking is does this sound like a mechanical failure to anyone or can this be electrical? can it be that one cylinder lost spark? this really sucks and i don't really wanna have more shop money draining out of my pocket. if it is engine failure then id probably be looking to see if anyone had a nice engine, but i don't want to jump too far ahead of myself. any insight would be nice. thanks for any input.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,582 Posts
if the oil light came on after the engine had stopped that's expected behavior. it's triggered by a pressure switch. if the oil pump isn't operating, the oil light is on.


sounds like ignition gremlins. check that there hasn't been water ingress at the spark plugs, that your battery terminals are tight, that your charging system is working properly etc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
221 Posts
if the oil light came on after the engine had stopped that's expected behavior. it's triggered by a pressure switch. if the oil pump isn't operating, the oil light is on.


sounds like ignition gremlins. check that there hasn't been water ingress at the spark plugs, that your battery terminals are tight, that your charging system is working properly etc
agree with wibbly here
the force from a pressure washer is a lot and can penetrate into things and also knock things apart like wiring connectors.
wiggle tight everything and if you have compressor blow everything dry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,663 Posts
I've learned the hard way about pressure washers and engine bays. Weird things can happen. Sounds like you've jarred a connector loose, or loosing ground when the front goes in the air. I'd be looking for electrical issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
238 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
i agree with you guys, thanks. i recharged my bike and she started up like normal again, free of mechanical error. tomorrow i will go through all my connections, it just sucks i have to take the bike all apart again. (this was lingering in the quick reply and apparently i didnt post it)

well i found the culprit. theres a white 2 conductor connector male that had tape wrapped around it keeping 2 wires plugged into it that had female blade connectors inserted into it. im wondering what happened to the rest of the connector!?!?! i squeezed the females so they had a tighter gap and inserted them back into the male connector, then used a zip tie tethering system that insures they dont come apart again and retaped it back up. the bike runs fine now, no cutting out.

i have a new problem now, sounds like i have popping on deceleration. my bike has the flapper and pair mod already done just so you know. i dont know if its and exhaust leak but i could not manage to find one. when i put that connector together the bike started no matter what way i had the 2 wires connected. when i looked at the wires going in the back of the connector there was a solid green wire and another colored wire with a stripe (cant for the life of me remember what color it was) and the female bladed wires were solid green and another colored wire (completely different from the connector side). so i plugged the 2 greens together and the two striped wires together and everything seems to be running fine. just to let you guys know the wires leaving the connector with the female blades each go off in two different directions with their own tubing over each of them and they go from mid motor to the front of the bike. maybe you guys can figure out by my description what connector im talking about. just wondering if i have them together correctly and im not causing a misfire of some sort.

thanks! if you need the wiring colors ill have to take the left side fairing off and pull out the coolant overflow to access it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
238 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
found out that those wires went to the coil for the front cylinder behind the left rad. i looked at the rear coil and saw i had the right wires connected. my rear harness was new so i went through my whole front 2 harnesses just to make sure that they were fine, i peeled off all rubber looms and tape. i found out that someone had done some ratty splicing to the light wiring to bypass the factory voltage issue when switching to led so i fixed that and re-wrapped them so they were like new. this wasn't my issue though obviously and i was just checking for a parasitic draw issue which wasn't a problem on my bike. after doing this last night my bike was still dying so i brought my battery in today to be tested and found out it was junk. this sucks because i had just bought it last fall so i never expected that this was the culprit, but after the stator frying out and replacing it and the rectifier i never thought it was the problem but i guess when they went they took my battery out with them. i was getting 13.85v from the +/- too when the bike was running and when the bike was off i was getting over 12v straight on the battery. the weird part is it was only taking about an hour or so to recharge the battery so that's when i decided to check it out. obviously when i shut the bike down it wouldn't start either so i should have known better.

got to ride her today and she feels good as new, although she smells like gas when i start her up so i have a new fpr that will be going in and i will check the fuel line for cracks as well. i do also have a exhaust leak near the front cylinder somewhere and i have a new gasket, studs, and nuts so ill have to rip that apart. if there's a leak in the header i may have to have it welded. this bike is a money pit but i love it so much, not throwing in the towel, well get there soon.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top