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Discussion Starter #1
rc51 2002. Had it for about a year. i mostly ride it to work daily. 2.2 mile round trip. Noticed yesterday when downshifting from third it jumps to neutral and took a little effort to shift back up to third. Im not sure but im lead to believe the clutches are hydraulic and not cable driven. funny thing is when i played with the clutch dial it got worse. bike became super sensitive shifting through gears. Hard to find neutral on the way up. one thing i do know is that i changed the oil a month ago with the incorrect 10w 50. guys at cycle gear are brilliant. i just looked at the shop manual and its 10w 40. clutch fluid hasnt been changed and is dirty for sure. Anyone have any ideas what im looking at. never had aproblem like this before. any help would be appreciated by a mechanical novice. thanks
 

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Hey Champ, I had a similar experience the first time I changed my oil to my 'new to me' RC51.
Get rid of that engine oil, try Mobil-1 4T 10w-40 @ about $12/qt. or my favorite, Honda HP4S 10w-30 @ about $15/qt.
Get a new filter too. Mobile1 offers 2 different filters for the rc51, I use the M1-110. It's a bit longer than the M1-108. Both are listed for our bike. Or I also use the Honda OEM filter. I mention the Mobil1 oil and filter because it's easily available in all the AutoZones around here. You don't have to go to a dealership.

Change out your clutch fluid too, make sure to only use brand new DOT4 brake fluid.

Unless you have other problems, this should make your shifts smooth again.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey Champ, I had a similar experience the first time I changed my oil to my 'new to me' RC51.
Get rid of that engine oil, try Mobil-1 4T 10w-40 @ about $12/qt. or my favorite, Honda HP4S 10w-30 @ about $15/qt.
Get a new filter too. Mobile1 offers 2 different filters for the rc51, I use the M1-110. It's a bit longer than the M1-108. Both are listed for our bike. Or I also use the Honda OEM filter. I mention the Mobil1 oil and filter because it's easily available in all the AutoZones around here. You don't have to go to a dealership.

Change out your clutch fluid too, make sure to only use brand new DOT4 brake fluid.

Unless you have other problems, this should make your shifts smooth again.
Thanks for the quick feedback. Will do.
 

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My bike finds nuetral too sometime when changing gears sometimes ill downshift and it will nuetral out for a couple seconds then hit hard. Almost crashed at the track b/c of this. I wonder if i am having the same issue cause im using rotella t 5w 40 synthetic.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Idk the service manual I have is from 2000-2003. Oil viscosity is recommended according to average riding temp in your riding area. 10w 40 is the only one that covers all riding temps from below 20F to over 100F. I should have known that before I changed the out for the first time. Could somebody please tell me about this clutch adjustment dial. I fiddled with it and the shifter feels either too limp or too hard. I'm sure I can get it set right but no mention of its purpose in the manual. Doesn't look aftermarket either.
 

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Is that a stock clutch lever? I believe it's supposed to do nothing more than move the handle closer or farther away to fit your hand better. I haven't had my stock levers for a while, so I can't remember exactly but think that's it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Idk but I swear that thing affects my gear shifter. No doubt about it. I should have never moved it. But when I turn it either light pressure goes straight through gears or the other way and the shifter does NOT move. Weird Idk what this thing is or am I actually crazy. I played with that dial all the way home. Got fresh oil and filter. Changing it tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Ok. I'm officially in the twilight zone, but atleast it's on an RC. So I'm looking at and feeling my gear shifter when sitting on the bike and I know the angle/ position is too low. Had to angle my foot in an unnatural position to upshift. So I adjusted the angle. If I went too high it would only shift from 1st to neutral. Nothing more. So I now have it at an angle where it shifts through all the gears, but the third gear to neutral problem remains. The only way to rectify this is switching gears with a feather light touch. Also when upshifting the travel distance seems very far, equal to the very short distance in downshifting. I have a guy with a bleeder coming by today to change the clutch fluid. But what the hell is happening here? Anyone know how to get Sub Sailor in. Maybe an Xbox live friend request. I'm going crazy here. And of course not looking forward to troubleshooting/screwing by my local Honda dealer.
 

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He will chime in dont worry. I know from changing my rear sets that the position its mounted to the shaft is important. Once you screw with that it gets touchy. Def bleed and change fluid. You said you were using mobil 1? Is that motorcycle specific?

Sent from my HTC PH39100 using Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #15
He will chime in dont worry. I know from changing my rear sets that the position its mounted to the shaft is important. Once you screw with that it gets touchy. Def bleed and change fluid. You said you were using mobil 1? Is that motorcycle specific?

Sent from my HTC PH39100 using Motorcycle.com Free App
The service manual calls for Honda GN4 4-stroke or equivalent. The first oil I used was Castro power RS racing 4t. Recommended at the cycle shop. Wrong weight though. It was 10w 50. And that's full synthetic. I replaced it with Mobil 1 racing 4t 10w40 full synthetic.
 

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View attachment 3898 Any idea what this build up is? I'm thinking slave but Idk.
Hard to tell form the photo.
That area has a lot of potential for residue.
Chain lube drool, countershaft seal, shift shaft seal, slave cylinder, etc.

Best way is to pull the sprocket cover, then degrease and clean around the area and then monitor new seepage.

BTW Do NOT use Silkolene chain lube.
That has to be nastiest, slimiest, chain lube I have ever had the displeasure of using. Creates a God-aweful mess all over you and your bike.
 

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If you have your bike on a rear stand (to lift the rear wheel off the ground) with the engine off, how does the gearbox feel if you shift it by hand (may have to rotate rear wheel while doing this to allow the dogs to engage)?

Does it seem to have the same effort and travel between each shift?
Does it have a positive feel with each shift?

And what's the history of the bike that you know of? Tracked, raced, stunted, etc.?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
If you have your bike on a rear stand (to lift the rear wheel off the ground) with the engine off, how does the gearbox feel if you shift it by hand (may have to rotate rear wheel while doing this to allow the dogs to engage)?

Does it seem to have the same effort and travel between each shift?
Does it have a positive feel with each shift?

And what's the history of the bike that you know of? Tracked, raced, stunted, etc.?
What's up Sub? So I rode the bike a couple of miles away on the freeway. No problem except the 3rd to neutral thing. Never got rpms out of line or jumped out of gear. Stopped and got brake fluid. Stopped at a friends house up the street. Got back on it wouldn't even turn over at all. Battery not an issue. I charged it for about 6 hours Thursday. Also I can only shift from neutral to 1st. I will put it on the stand and see whats up. Looking like I might be off to the shop tomorrow though. Damn I hope it's not the tranny. Seems like ecu is sending a shut down signal. Only reason I can see the bike not turning over with a good battery. But there's a lot I don't know mechanically speaking.
 
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