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2002 rvt1000r new to me YAY!!! But the brake light doesnt work when either the foot pedal or the hand lever is depressed. The tail lights both work fine. I replaced the bulbs checked the fuses underneath the left fairing all is good there. I tested the wire at the bulb and Im getting juice for the tail light (both of them) but none for the brake light (either of them). So no current for the brake light at the bulb side of the harness. I tried disconnecting the front and back brake switch just to see if the brake light was stuck on and it was not. Any help is great Im stumped. It does have an aftermarket undertail but the OEM wiring does not appear hacked in any way.

-Brian
 

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Did you check the fuses visually or by using a ohmmeter?
I've had fuses blow near the base, where the middle part looks fine, but still to current flow.

Does your turn signals and horn work? If not, then it's a blown 10A Fuse D.
If they do work, and only the brakes, then further inspection is needed.
 

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I'd check the switches (f and r brake) to make sure they are working (ohm meter). Then if working I'd engage one switch, holding as such (front brake is easy to do so) and start checking and working the wiring (twisting and flexing) from the rear brake lights slowly through to the front of harness (where the brake wiring runs). That would hopefully find the area of the short.
 

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After looking at the wiring diagram, and based on the info that the horn and turn signals work, but the front and rear brake switches do activate the either brake lights, it sounds like a wiring harness issue.

Does this bike have an aftermarket undertail/lighting system?
The problem could be originating at that point.

If it's OEM light assembly, then I'd check if you have voltage at the brake light sockets between the G/Y and G wiring. Then start back-tracking.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
There is no voltage for brake lights at the plug, there is voltage for the tail light. It does have a after market under tail but the original harness looks to be intact.
 

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Lol not looking for a wand, also no idea how to trace down an electrical problem aside from cutting the harness and just following the wire until it gets power.
 

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Lol not looking for a wand, also no idea how to trace down an electrical problem aside from cutting the harness and just following the wire until it gets power.
on a multimeter use the "diode" function, will act like a continuity test, then grab the end of the wire your testing and put a probe on that, then find the other end at the fusebox find the wire that's the same color and bang the probe on that end, if the meter then zero's out you have a good wire, if nothing then there is a break in it somewhere, then you have the lovely job of slicing the loom open to find where the break is:eek:

also when your at the fusebox end realise that there is a going to be a dead and a live side on the continuity test when you take the fuse out to probe the wire, so you might need to probe both contacts on the fuse holder to find out which connector is attached to the wire your testing
 

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Here's why I think it's harness issue:


If you look at the diagram, you'll notice power to the brake light filaments is via the G/Y wire.
The rear brake light switch (and front brake light switch) allow power to the G/Y wire via the W/G wire.

But also notice power via the W/G wire is supplied to the turn signal relay, and he reported the signals work ok.

Since the front and rear brake light switches are separated by distance in the harness, I feel the problem is towards the rear portion of the harness, possibly closer to the brake/taillight assembly.
 
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