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Discussion Starter #1
The rear running lights are on but neither the foot or hand brake failed to activate the rear brake light. Seeing as it's both front and rear I wonder if its a fuse or if both bulbs have burnt any clues before I dig in would be helpful. Where do I find the fuse box for the rear brake lights. Thanks Dave
 

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Ground fault. Common in Hondas after about 6-10+ years old. I fixed my 00 929 a decade ago ,and a customer's 06 600rr just last month.

Let me know if you want help and what your skill is.

Aaron
 

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Check both bulbs.
Then check your brake switch at the front brake lever. With the bike off you should hear a little click from the switch box located right under the brake handle. There's two wires that you can (carefully) unplug then test the switch with a multimeter set to Ohms. You'll have infinity when the brake is at rest, and continuity when the lever is squeezed.

Start with that and let us know what you find out.






Brake lever at rest.



Brake lever squeezed.
 

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It's not the switches nor bulbs bro. Rear signals on as markers tells one that. This is a ground fault. Honda has many BUS bars but they are total hot garbage. No solder, no adhesive lined shrink. Just crimp and electrical tape. After washing and rain and moisture they corrode. They do a piss poor job in this regard on the harness.

You will have PWR to the switch.

What needs to happen is to chase continuity through the harness on the ground side of the rear brake light switch to the bulb as well. Green with a stripe. I'll post photos of the CBR600 I fixed soon. Big you can work a meter and know how to validate continuity along a wire buried in the loom you will be ok. If not best to see my photos, call me, or take it to a solid mechanic.
 

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It's not the switches nor bulbs bro. Rear signals on as markers tells one that. This is a ground fault. Honda has many BUS bars but they are total hot garbage. No solder, no adhesive lined shrink. Just crimp and electrical tape. After washing and rain and moisture they corrode. They do a piss poor job in this regard on the harness.

You will have PWR to the switch.

What needs to happen is to chase continuity through the harness on the ground side of the rear brake light switch to the bulb as well. Green with a stripe. I'll post photos of the CBR600 I fixed soon. Big you can work a meter and know how to validate continuity along a wire buried in the loom you will be ok. If not best to see my photos, call me, or take it to a solid mechanic.
I suppose you're probably right about a wiring problem.
I started him out with the simple and obvious tests first before chasing wires.
If the bulbs check out, _ie the brake filaments are intact_
and the switch checks out, then the next logical step is to start checking wires.
I just thought it was a sound idea to eliminate the easy stuff first.
 

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The rear turn signals are always on bro. That is the "obvious" test.

Don't listen to me though, I'm only a Mechanical Engineer, a Tank Commander, and a Honda Technician,and spinning wrenches for over 25 years...

Unless they have been modified to stay on vs. cycle on/off per design, then there is a ground fault. Not to be confused with a short.
 

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It's not the switches nor bulbs bro. Rear signals on as markers tells one that. This is a ground fault. Honda has many BUS bars but they are total hot garbage. No solder, no adhesive lined shrink. Just crimp and electrical tape. After washing and rain and moisture they corrode. They do a piss poor job in this regard on the harness.

You will have PWR to the switch.

What needs to happen is to chase continuity through the harness on the ground side of the rear brake light switch to the bulb as well. Green with a stripe. I'll post photos of the CBR600 I fixed soon. Big you can work a meter and know how to validate continuity along a wire buried in the loom you will be ok. If not best to see my photos, call me, or take it to a solid mechanic.

OP didn't say the rear blinkers were lit. He said the rear running lights were working. Which is normal if the turn signals are stock. Are you assuming the turn signals are integrated and lit? He didn't state if he has stock rear signals or integrated into the rear brake lamp.
Anyway, I don't see what that has to do with the front (or rear) brake switch.
Or the bulbs.
It's a long shot but both bulbs could have broken brake filaments at the same time. Possible, but not probable.
Assuming both bulbs check out, a quick two minute test will eliminate the switch as a problem.

I did say I thought you were right about wiring, specifically a ground.
It just made sense to me _a random member on a forum_ to chime in with a different approach.
To the same end.

Lets see what pans out...
 

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why is mr. gimmie talking about signals? the op is clearly talking about the brake light. the "running lights" he mentions is the natural state of the tail light, the second filaments clearly aren't lighting.


first just check the bulbs, maybe the brake filament is broken in both, though I doubt it.


what I actually suspect is that one of your switches is closed and you aren't seeing your running lights, you're seeing your brake lights.

unplug one of the connectors at the front brake and see if the lights dim, if they don't, check that the rear brake light switch is working properly, it could have malfunctioned. you could just unplug it to see.


if the running lights are working, then there isn't a ground issue, as both the brake light and running light share a common ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
First off thanks for all the help. The problem was the front brake lever would not fully open once the brake was applied. I'm hoping that the Lever just needs to be lubricated and I will also replace the brake fluid as it is quite dark maybe that will allow a little more feedback from the lever and allow the lever to go back to its original position thus allowing the pin to be fully depressed deactivating the brake light on.
Its just a little nudge out to get the lever to engage the pin.

So a lube and fluid change should rectify the leveres ability to pop back open. Will confirm
 

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Cool, you seem to have got it.
So it was switch related, just that your lever wasn't releasing far enough to let the switch turn off? Which kept the brake lights on, like Wibbly suggested? ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes brake lever not engaging the switch pin. As both filiments in the brake bulbs were lit and all running lights operational.

My levers are chrome and are adjustable . Are these aftermarket or stock
 

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I'll chime in since the OP is all good. I'm horrible at wiring chasing down issues ect but I'm a quick learner. My brake lights don't work either. Running lights yes blinkers yes no brake light front or rear. It's not the bulbs and it's not the switches I used the front switch to wire up a LED brake light bar that I mouted on my plate and that works. I got so frustrated trying to find it I bypassed it... I would like for them to work.
 

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Well... since its been revived. I did get it, my voltage regulator was fried and it messed up some wiring just below it. Replaced the regulator and the rear harness now they work like a charm.

Still cant get my F'n fan to auto kick on though :mad: I just flip a switch when Im at a red light. Would be cooler (lol) to not have to.
 

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Same issue here on the SP2 I just got. Running lights & blinkers are fine. No brake lights.
Not OEM and the harness is a mess.
135058
 

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i would say the taps are your culprit, those things suck. id go over all of that before anything.
 
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