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Discussion Starter #1
Friends,
Today my wife and I took on the task of removing the rear exhaust cam to order the updated shim. Measured clearance is 0.009 inches versus the specification of 0.012 +/- 0.001 inch.

I pulled out a 1/4 inch drive 10mm, 6-point socket with a 3/8 drive handle and the camshaft holder bolts seemed tight. I then proceeded to break the Craftsman socket.

Does anyone have experience with these being tight? They are not left hand thread are they? I see the torque specification is for the camshaft holder bolts is 17 lbf-ft.

I would hate to break the bolt!

Thank you for any comments.

KRR
 

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Use heat first, then while the bolt is hot, it should break loose easier. I would use a propane torch, but not crazy hot on the bolt. Also, I would replace the bolt due to it may be over-torqued from whoever tightened it last time. Over-torquing stretches and weakens a bolt.
 

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I'd start with placing a punch on the bolt head, and give it a good solid strike with a hammer, once or twice to shock the bolt. Then try a 3/8" or 1/2" drive and sturdier socket.
An impact gun would most likely be the easiest way to break the bolt loose. Then run it out with a hand ratchet; that will tell you if you have cross-thread issues and need to replace it.
I'm not so sure heat will work in this case. If you heat the bolt head, what happens? The bolt swells very slightly. I don't think you need it any tighter.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks everyone for responding. My socket arrives on Thursday. As someone at my work suggested and here I will try a mechanical shock and use a torque wrench so I can objectively measure the torque rather than my feel. I will keep all abreast of my progress,
KRR
 

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I've broke those small 1/4" drive Craftsman sockets before, on pesky, non engine bolts. They're not made very well sometimes. Socket had splits running from the opening, downward. I wonder if Craftsman has some sort of chart showing the strength of each size drive socket.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Bolts are Free

The bolts are free. Last night I received the new 6-point, 3/8 drive, 10mm socket. I struck each bolt head via flat punch and 1 pound hammer. I set my torque wrench at 30 ft-lbf and they all broke free.

I agree with Mr. Collins, the socket was undersized and poor quality. Now all is well.

I want to thank all that responded. It was minor matter but it is nice to know there is a community present to help lend assistance.

KRR
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Job Done! Thank you

Friends, This weekend my wife and I finished the valve adjustment. We put the new shim in the right rear exhaust valve stem, installed the camshaft and clearance was spot on at 0.012 inches.

We put in all new gasket, o-rings, and seals for both valve covers. Reinstalled the radiators and hoses, put in fresh engine ice and ran the motorcycle with no leaks of any kind. Ran fine with the new spark plugs. I want to thank everyone who helped us with the minor task. Things we learned:

1. The factory technical/maintenance manual is quite thorough compared to other manuals I have used. I like the cable and wire routing diagrams.

2. Gear driven cam shafts are much easier to install than chain driven cam shafts. The noise will never bother me.

3. OEM spares quality is good. All gaskets and o-rings fit fine.

4. We also replaced the front brake master cylinder with no problems.

Anyhow, I will be cleaning and waxing all the fairing panels and it is ready for summer. Overall a fun job.

Thanks again.

Team FASTLIKEJUDY

PS. Judy was our Corgi dog. My wife and I raced Vintage TRIUMPH motorcycles for 18 years. Early in my race hobby I returned to the pits, dejected with my lap times, and told my wife I was going fast like Judy. Judy ran around and thought she was fast. The name of our race team was born.
Judy has passed and we now have Kadee the corgi.
 
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