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I just did my valve clearances and decided to do both cylinders at the same time.
After putting the front cylinders shims, cams etc back in i realized my mistake, i don't know what position to put my rear cylinders cams back in.
Having just done the front cylinder it's lined up to "FT" with index marks facing outward so i know this is correct.
The manual states to rotate the crank from the "FT" mark 270deg (3/4 turn) anti-clockwise to the "RT" mark.
The problem is when i do that i only come to the "R" mark.
I know this can't be correct seeing as i removed/measured my clearances on my rear cams with the "RT" mark and index marks facing outward, and obviously they have to go back into the exact same position.
I've followed the manual and found a few answers here in the forums which state the same as each other, i just can't understand where i've gone wrong?!
 

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VTR CAM TIMING PROCEDURE

WITH BOTH FRONT CYLINDER AND REAR CYLINDER CAMSHAFTS REMOVED (Starting from scratch)

1) Turn C/shaft until FT appears and lines up with the mark on the cover

2) Fit FRONT CYLINDER Exhaust camshaft with the mark FE on the exhaust camwheel level with the c/head and at the front of the bike with the cam chain tight - ZIP TIE the chain to the wheel

3) Fit FRONT CYLINDER Inlet camshaft with the mark FI on the camwheel Level with the C/head and to the rear of the bike - ZIP TIE the chain to the wheel

THE CAM LOBES WILL NOW BE POINTING AWAY FROM EACH OTHER

4) Fit the cam caps and CCT - CUT THE ZIP TIES

5) TURN THE C/SHAFT ANTI CLOCKWISE 270 DEGREES until RT appears and lines up

6) Fit the REAR CYLINDER Inlet cam with the mark RI on the camwheel level with the c/head and pointing to the front of the bike -ZIP TIE chain to wheel

7) Fit REAR CYLINDER Exhaust Camshaft with the mark RE on the camwheel level with the c/head and at the rear of the bike with the cam chain tight - ZIP TIE chain to wheel

THE CAM LOBES WILL NOW BE POINTING TOWARDS EACH OTHER

8) Fit cam caps and CCT - CUT THE ZIP TIES

USEFUL TIP

If you are timing in the frame:- 1) Use the extended line on the FR IN cam wheel as the outer mark as (--- FI) is difficult to see.

2) Mark with a paint spot the back of the tooth on the RR Ex cam wheel as (---RE) is difficult to see so you can clearly see it looking through from the LHS of the bike.

Professionals need not use zip ties

ignore the CHAIN comments.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 

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You can download the service and user manuals from this site:
https://www.rc51.info/index.php?page=service

The US version has more complete service information, but the UK version has better quality photos.

As a side note, both version only refer to the SP1 forks during the fork servicing.
The SP2 forks use different fork caps and can be damaged/destroyed if SP1 procedures are used for fork cap removal.
For that, refer to the CBR954RR fork procedures for the fork caps, which are the same.
 
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