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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Charging problems after undertail install

'00 RC was running fine 'til I got a hair up my butt and decided to install a Hotbodies Undertail. Install went fine with the help of a SubSailor's guide. I took it out for a test ride, about 45min later it puttered out and died. Called a buddy for a jump and we made it a half mile down the road before it happened again. Luckily it wasn't far from home and I was able to coast an impressive distance then push it a couple blocks to my garage. :mad:

The battery is 3 years old, that could be one issue. But what are some other things that I should be looking for? I need to pick up a new battery for my multi meter tomorrow to test the battery. I have very limited mechanical knowledge. After 10 years on the bike I figure wth, might as well learn sometime. Hopefully I didn't jack something up. I'd actually be relieved it all I need is a new battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
ECU connections appear to be in perfect condition. Power Commander should be arriving later this week.

There were 3 wires going into each of the OEM brake lights. Green, Brown, Green/yellow tracer. The green wire wasn't mentioned in the Hotbodies directions and the lights work normal without it.

What is the purpose of this wire? If it has a purpose where does it get attached? I was thinking possibly a ground, but assumed they wouldn't work if not grounded already.

It's late now and I'm going to take the tail off tomorrow to see if all of the molex connectors are securely attached. I thought I gave it a good run down before reassembly, but apparently I missed something.

Thanks for everyone's help that contributes.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Finally got back out to test the battery. I've never seen this before....

Key off - 11.13v
Key on - 10.67v
push ignition - 2.3v and it sounds like relays going nuts all over. clickclickclickclick
 

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Finally got back out to test the battery. I've never seen this before....

Key off - 11.13v
Key on - 10.67v
push ignition - 2.3v and it sounds like relays going nuts all over. clickclickclickclick
If your battery is at 11v, it's effectively dead.
Was this before or after you've charged it?
If before, throw in on a charger.
If its' after charging, your battery has a dead cell.
If the battery voltage shows ok after charging, put a voltmeter across the posts while the engine is running. It should measure 14-15v, but not 15.5v.
 

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ECU connections appear to be in perfect condition. Power Commander should be arriving later this week.

There were 3 wires going into each of the OEM brake lights. Green, Brown, Green/yellow tracer. The green wire wasn't mentioned in the Hotbodies directions and the lights work normal without it.

What is the purpose of this wire? If it has a purpose where does it get attached? I was thinking possibly a ground, but assumed they wouldn't work if not grounded already.

It's late now and I'm going to take the tail off tomorrow to see if all of the molex connectors are securely attached. I thought I gave it a good run down before reassembly, but apparently I missed something.

Thanks for everyone's help that contributes.
Green = Ground
Green/Yellow = Brake lights
Black/Brown = Tailight

Orange = Right rear turn signal
Light Blue = Left rear turn signal
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
So the brake light and turn signals share a ground on the hot bodies? I would assume so since there is only 1 ground coming out of each side. That means I will have 2 factory ground wires spare because the factory turn signals were separate.

Yep, batter is D E A D. Charged it myself and tested. Then brought it to the shop and played dumb (wasn't hard). They couldn't get it to hold a charge at all. Looks like I'm off to do some battery shopping. Cross my fingers and hope this is the final solution. That would mean I just have bad luck and that I did the "easy" undertail hook ups correctly. Also, after thinking back... this battery is 7 years old and has NEVER been brought it or put on a tender for winterization.
 

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So the brake light and turn signals share a ground on the hot bodies? I would assume so since there is only 1 ground coming out of each side. That means I will have 2 factory ground wires spare because the factory turn signals were separate.

Yep, batter is D E A D. Charged it myself and tested. Then brought it to the shop and played dumb (wasn't hard). They couldn't get it to hold a charge at all. Looks like I'm off to do some battery shopping. Cross my fingers and hope this is the final solution. That would mean I just have bad luck and that I did the "easy" undertail hook ups correctly. Also, after thinking back... this battery is 7 years old and has NEVER been brought it or put on a tender for winterization.
Yes, the undertail uses a common ground.
On mine, the colors were:
Black = Ground
Blue = Taillight
Red= Brake lights
Orange = one each for left and right signal
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Put the new battery in .. Proton blinkers and Hotbodies undertail lights were about twice as bright as the old battery. Those Proton blinkers are blinding at night, good god!

Gonna wait to take it for a ride when a buddy is available to tow me if something goes bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If your battery is at 11v, it's effectively dead.
Was this before or after you've charged it?
If before, throw in on a charger.
If its' after charging, your battery has a dead cell.
If the battery voltage shows ok after charging, put a voltmeter across the posts while the engine is running. It should measure 14-15v, but not 15.5v.
So if the new battery is only showing 11.90v while running I may have an issue with my charging system?
 

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Check the voltage from your stator. Disconnect it where it connects to the rectifier, it will be the 3 yellow wire one. Put your bike on a jumper battery or connect it to a car so it will run and check each leg of the stator to ground. Mine went on me last year. 2 legs were pretty similar and the third was WAYYYY off. +/- 5 or 10% between legs is ok. If those are ok, reconnect stator, disconnect the rectifier and check voltages from that. Just my .02
 

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So if the new battery is only showing 11.90v while running I may have an issue with my charging system?
If your new battery only shows 11v after charging, then a bad stator coil could be a problem. Or possibly a bad rectifier/regulator.
The stator has three coils.
If you disconnect the 3-pole white connector and measure between each terminal, the resistance should be .2-.5 ohms.
The measure between each terminal to ground.
There should be no continuity.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So umm I'm an idiot. I missed one of the molex plugs when reassembling my bike. Connected it, started the bike, bam 14.54v.

:eek: Let's here it for another ID10T error! :eek:
 
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