RC51 Forums banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I been having trouble with my clutch. Is the only clutch adjustment on the clutch lever? When I take off from start the cluch engages like the last 1/4 of the way every so often I will stall it. I think I need a new clutch.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,237 Posts
For starters you should check your clutch fluid's quality. Are they fresh?
Once the clutch's plates are worn out the clutch master cylinder adds the extra required fluid from the bottle when you let the lever go.
If your lever is in 2nd or 3rd click's position and you still engage on the last quarter of it's way, then you should take your master and slave cylinders for seals renewal.
I would definitely start from those.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
When you say take-off meaning as in race/drag start or normal riding, as the gearing and set-up of this bike is not for quick starts.
In reverse logic of braking systems when the hydraulics become less effective the clutch engages and does not disengage easily, which to me describes your condition as a worn set of plates or inappropriate lubrication or both.

Race bikes only slam-drop the clutch with this gearing once in the race. In street conditions if you do this too often you burn-up your clutch and cause severe stress on the transmission (from primary gear to cush-drive)
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,633 Posts
I been having trouble with my clutch. Is the only clutch adjustment on the clutch lever? When I take off from start the cluch engages like the last 1/4 of the way every so often I will stall it. I think I need a new clutch.

To answer your first question...there is no adjustment as the clutch is hydraulically actuated, it is the actuation on cable clutches that is adjusted the hydraulic ones are self adjusting.

You may need a new clutch, the proper way to check is to disassemble, measure and inspect.

Download the manual or take it to a shop if you are not qualified to do your own work...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,186 Posts
These clutches do engage a bit later compared to other bikes as well, takes a bit getting used too. is it new to you?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I'm new to the rc51 my bike is a 2000 with little over 15k on it not sure how many owners but i know at least 3 including me. I'm sure all the fluids are old i know the bike sat for a few years before i got it. When i mean take off from start i mean from any stop. I don't race this bike it is all normal street riding.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,186 Posts
honestly i'd say change out the fluid and see if that helps a bit. But like i said, the clutch engagement is a bit late compared to other bikes, and can be tricky to new riders to this bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Ok i'll drain the fluid and see if that helps. Any dot 4 brake fluid? Or should i get some expensive premium fluid?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,186 Posts
Really just for street riding any decent DOT 4 will be fine, i use Motul and like it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,237 Posts
RBF600 is the best on the market...especially for track use. But need to be changed at least twice a year to keep it's quality IMHO.

I have used BelRay, Repsol dot4s and they are very good too, and it can last a year in the system with decent street performance.
Also Shell's dot 5.1 is quite good although a bit overpriced.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,996 Posts
Just about any dot4 fluid will work well. It is hydraulic fluid, not some speciality made brew of fairy dust and unicorn hooves.

Change it when it gets dirty. <<That is the most important part.


To bleed/replace the fluid:
Pull cap off reservoir.
Pull off slave cylinder.
Put c-clamp around slave cylinder to keep the piston from moving. Otherwise you will not be able to get pressure into the system.
Bleed/flush system as you normally would with brakes. Something like a mityvac will help a lot but is not necessary.

Whatever you do, don't pull on the lever with the slave pulled off. You'll make a big mess. And don't leave the slave pulled off without a clamp on it. It will creep out on its own and wil make it difficult to reinstall without bleeding off the pressure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
169 Posts
I thought I had the same problem with mine, but I replaced everything and it still engages almost as far out in the lever travel as it used to. That's with a rebuild of master and slave cylinders, all new plates and springs, and RBF600 fluid. Like everybody is saying, unless it is slipping under hard acceleration, it's probably fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
I think it's just how hydraulic clutches feel. I had an SV1000S that had a long lever engagement too. It felt the same at 20,000 miles as it did at 59,000.

Although I haven't really launched my RC hard yet, it has a very similar feel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Thanks guys i got some maxima dot4 fluid wasn't bad cost under $8. I guess its good to replace the clutch and brake fluid while i have it. I never noticed any slippage so i guess i just have to get used to it. Also what kind of idle rpm u guys running?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,481 Posts
If you suspect your friction plates are worn, you can easily check them using an electronic caliper.
Just remove the clutch cover, unscrew the pressure plate bolts in an even pattern.
The remove the friction and drive plates and stack them in order.
Then measure the friction plate thicknesses using the caliper with the minimum thickness guideline from the service manual.
While out, you can also measure each clutch spring length to check if the spring has sacked out from age.
If a plate is out of tolerance, replace the plates.
Soak the new plates in fresh oil for several minutes, and then install in order.
The last (outermost) plate is offset with the tabs inserted into the shallow slots in the basket.
Reinstall the pressure plate and tighten the bolts again in a cross pattern, and tighten to spec.
The clutch cover uses o-ring type material and can usually be reused, unless too stiff from age or heat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I changed the fluid in my bike and man was it dirty shit floating around but all new fluid and the clutch does feel better. thanks for the help i hope this works out. next winter i'll have to take apart the clutch assembly and clean it really good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,655 Posts
You may not want to wait till next winter. If your fluid was that dirty, I can almost bet you got some crud in the bottom off your slave cylinder. Since the bleeder valve is at the top, you can't be sure you got all the peanutbutter out unless you at least remove the slave and look. Mine was really nasty too when I bought my bike. Look into replacing the cups and seals for your slave and master as well, and then your clutch will be MUCH more smooth, predicable, and accurate.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top