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Discussion Starter #1
Is there a way to adjust where the friction zone is on the clutch? I'm not sure if its normal but I have to let the lever out 90+ percent before I start moving. It doesn't slip once moving though.

thanks
 

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This can happen on a cable operated clutch linkage where you can have several adjustments, not only on the clutch release mechanism, but also on the cable and lever to compensate for wear or free play.

However, the RC51 uses a hydraulic clutch linkage and automatically compensates for wear and has no adjustment.

If your lever travel is normal and you are having problems with initial point where the clutch starts to engage, you may deeper problems.
Possibly the friction plates are worn to the replacement point, or possibly other problems in the system.

I suggest you have it checked.
 

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I just replaced the clutch in mine a couple of weeks ago with barnett disks and hyperpro plates and it really improved the feel big time.

How many miles you got on your bike? Might be time for a new clutch.
 

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It may depend on if his bike is an SP1 or SP2.
The clutch plates are different between the two.
The SP2 has a judder plate and spring disk to help with smoother clutch engagement.
The inner and outer friction plates are different thickness and color coded for proper installation.
You have to be very careful ordering aftermarket plates between the two.
Barnett has different part numbers for the different plates.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have 16k and it's a 2001. how much did you get the clutch kit for?
 

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A long engagement travel followed by an abrupt engagement usually indicates incorrect adjustment (on non hydraulic linkages) or plates reaching the end of life.
Although 16K miles isn't much to require a replacement.
I've 38K miles on mine and the clutch is fine.
My Hayabusa has 24K miles with no issues.
I can only say to have it checked and measure the friction plate thickness and see if they've reached their minimum thickness limit.
 

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You can do what sub said or you can do what I did. I had 22K miles on my bike and wasn't comfortable with the stock clutch still in there. Looked around and determined for the price of a new clutch it would be well worth the cost. I know a place where you can get barnett discs and plates and new springs all for $126
 

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For the SP1's (2000-2001) , the part number for friction plates (qty. 7) is 301-45-10008.
The Barnett clutch plate kit for the SP1's (plates, springs, etc) is 304-35-10001.

This is only for the SP1's. Barnett does not make a clutch kit for SP2's.
You have to order separate components for that model.
 

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I just replaced the clutch in mine a couple of weeks ago with barnett disks and hyperpro plates and it really improved the feel big time.

How many miles you got on your bike? Might be time for a new clutch.
I have a set of Hyperplates for my SP2 as well, I just haven't installed them yet.
It took months to receive them as a German company bought their entire stock and they had to restock their whole inventory.

When I tear the clutch apart I'll install fresh friction plates along with the Hyperplates in one operation.

How much clutch operation difference did they make?
I weighted my Hyperplates and they only came to 275 gm.

I'll weight my stock steel plates when I can.
I've been weighing almost everything when I work on it, just to have that data.
 

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I have a set of Hyperplates for my SP2 as well, I just haven't installed them yet.
It took months to receive them as a German company bought their entire stock and they had to restock their whole inventory.

When I tear the clutch apart I'll install fresh friction plates along with the Hyperplates in one operation.

How much clutch operation difference did they make?
I weighted my Hyperplates and they only came to 275 gm.

I'll weight my stock steel plates when I can.
I've been weighing almost everything when I work on it, just to have that data.
I've read about a ton of other people weighing them against stock and the numbers are all very similar so I didn't bother with it. The clutch just feels better all around. It engages alot sooner which I like. The only issue is for the 1st few hundred miles its a pain in the ass to find neutral but it becomes easier as the clutch gets some miles on it. I just started becoming concerned about weight so my custom 2:1 is supposed to shave me about 19lbs so that will help
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You can do what sub said or you can do what I did. I had 22K miles on my bike and wasn't comfortable with the stock clutch still in there. Looked around and determined for the price of a new clutch it would be well worth the cost. I know a place where you can get barnett discs and plates and new springs all for $126
Where can I get it for 126?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I bled the clutch 2 times hoping for an easy fix but no luck. i still have the same problem of it engaging at the very end of the travel.

Where is a sp1 stock clutch supposed to engage at?

thanks
 
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