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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the clutch just started slipping really bad on my 03. How hard is it to replace? never really messed with a Hydraulic clutch before. The odometers showin 30k miles, could i get by with just replacing the fibers or should i look into a complete rebuild kit? Thanks for the help.
 

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What's the fluid like in your clutch linkage? When was the last time it was replaced?
Your clutch slippage could be the result of a sticking slave cylinder piston.
If your clutch linkage is ok, then you can pull the clutch cover and remove the springs and pressure plate, and then the drive and friction plates and inspect.
I'd suggest when you pull the plates, lay them in a stack with first plate down so you can reinstall in reverse order. Particularly if you pulled out the judder spring and seat.
It would also help if you had an electronic caliper to measure friction plate thickness.
That would tell you if your friction plates had worn beyond the service limit.
The steel drive plates should be ok unless overheated and warped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Im gonna check that before i change tear all the way into it. I rode it to town today and it wasn't slipping at all it didn't seem. It was clutching up in 2nd no prob and it wasn't last time i parked it. So i'll check into the slave cylinder and see if that helps. Thanks for the help guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok guys. The clutch went kaput on the 51. Are you talking about the fluid in the res. above the clutch lever.? I took the plates out and they look fairly good for it the be slipping as bad as it is. I need help fast. Thanks alot for any help. Feel free to call me if you can. 828-506-3762 Thanks. -TJ
 

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How hard is the clutch pull at the lever? Is it easy or stiff?
These bikes have an easy clutch pull. The easiest of the three bikes I own by far.
If the clutch fluid hasn't been changed a quite a while, it can absorb moisture and eventually turn into sludge that's difficult to move.

I ran into that with my 'Busa due to the yo-yo's at the local shop not replacing the diaphragm with the correct one. It was pretty nasty to flush and bleed.

When you removed your plates, did the friction plates look glazed from heat?
Were you able to measure the plate thickness to compare with the service limit?

Also, how full is the clutch master cylinder?
I've heard overfilling past the high level can cause clutch slippage as the fluid expands and has no free space to back fill.

Clutches slip either due to worn plates or the linkage misadjusted (mechanical type).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The discs and steels looked OK i guess. Some were darker on one side but all still had material left. And i just got done flushing the fluid a min ago. Theyre was all kind of Gunk in the bottom of the rezzie. Gotta run to the store tomorrow and get some DOT4 and fill er back up and see if it helped. I went ahead and replaced the Inner and outer friction discs " cause thats the only ones i had right now, waiting on the others to come in the mail" But i got it back together and im gonna see if that fixed it tomorrow.
 

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Gunk? What color, black?
Did it look slimy? If so, the fluid has absorbed water moisture.
Be sure and flush/bleed the line thoroughly to purge that junk out.
 

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If you do find you need to replace your clutch pates, remember that the number and type of friction plates differ between SP1 and SP
2 as the SP2 has the judder spring.
Because of that, the innermost plate has a larger inner diameter than the rest to clear the judder spring.
On both the outer plate is also different in color of friction material than the rest.
Plus the outer friction plate is offset by one slot than the others. It goes into a shallow slot as opposed to the long, full length slot.
Tighten the spring bolts in a star shaped pattern until seated, then tighten.
Also don't forget to soak your new friction plates in oil for a while before installing.
 
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