Being a 2000, this is sage advice the clutch could be at the end of its service limit. As well, the clutch master cylinder has a spring and rubber parts that deteriorate with age.If you are absolutely sure that there's no air in the system and still the lever engages far from the grip, apart from adjusting your lever to wherever work better for you, you should open the clutch cover, take out the friction and metal clutch disks and measure them for recommended thickness according to the Service Manual.
Would also be very good is you took the clutch's slave cylinder apart and check the piston and it's seal for wear.
No shit Sherlock!Yes, that's right, but it also means the clutch releases less if you adjust the lever so it's closer to the grip - which in effect means it'll bite earlier as there's less release.
Look at how many modern bikes have clutches operated with a hydraulic system? Somehow I don't think engineers developing these things get it wrong.Shit man!
The precision wanted for braking is different to the feel required on a clutch.
Superbikes tooLook at how many modern bikes have clutches operated with a hydraulic system? Somehow I don't think engineers developing these things get it wrong.
Here's a famous race spec. RC51. Food for thought.
Do you think cheap mass produced Honda master cylinders have any place on some of the most expensive HRC championship winning bikes made in their era?Don't see any with the SP master cylinder.
And there's plenty folk do like cable clutch.
I probably bleed my clutch every couple of years or so, or when I see the fluid start to change from it's original colour (blue turning to green over time in my case).I bleed the whole clutch system once a year, before the summer kick in and never ever had a problem with it.
I am going with the herd now.....