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Clutch slipping?

5K views 11 replies 6 participants last post by  JayDee 
#1 ·
Only slips when running hot or in the power band its got a new clutch braided line oberon slave and rebuilt master I decided to throw parts at the problem and she's still got a slipping clutch I don't know what to do!!
 
#5 ·
Make sure it's bled properly. Try reverse bleeding the slave cylinder, the Oberon slaves can be hard to bleed....notorious issue on Aprilia RSV's. Also the Oberon in conjunction with the cheap lever may be making it worse. Aftermarket slave cyclinders reduce lever pull at the expense of the amount of space used to disengage the clutch. This can be negated by moving your lever all the way out to increase the lever pull distance.

I recently removed my Evoluzione slave off my RSV for this very issue.
 
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#6 ·
Bopp46m, did you ever get this figured out? I'm in the same boat. 2000 SP1 with 3500 miles on it. I've replaced the friction plates (OEM) and springs (EBC), cleaned/checked the lifter rod, done two oil changes (before the new plates went in and they were soaked overnight) with Motul 4T 7100. OEM levers and I rebuilt the clutch master cylinder with an OEM kit. I took apart the slave, cleaned it and put it back together but didn't replace any parts as everything looked good. I've thrown over $300 at this but still no joy.

Basically, the bike runs fine for the first 15 minutes. But then if I stop and get back on... the clutch slips and sometimes it won't even pull off the line. When I eventually get it going, some good hard downshifts seem to resolve the problem so not sure what that's pointing to. Would love some help with this mystery.
 
#8 ·
Return port plugged solid. 🤬

Screw holding the clutch reservoir stripped out so I needed an extraction tool to remove it. (I remember ignoring that part when I rebuilt the master.) With it off, of course I could now easily see that the return port was completely blocked. It was the little tiny hole in the bottom of the bigger hole (in the middle)

Here's the blockage:
Auto part


I used some 26 gauge nichrome wire (my son's hotwire kit) to get in there and clean it out:


And lookie lookie... that tiny little hole makes an RC51 work surprisingly well:
Wheel


Went for a good long ride with a couple of stops and had absolutely zero problems. Wibbly... I owe you a beverage, kind sir. I've been wrestling with this thing for a couple months now and was getting ready to throw in the towel. Sorted now. Cheers.
 
#10 ·
Thank you.thank you, thank you..The advice worked on my sp1 also!!!! I have a 2001 sp1 with only 290 miles on it.. After riding for 15 minutes, and parking it and starting again, the clutch would slip under hard acceleration..I was about to tear the clutch apart until I saw this thread.. Master was totallly clogged with goo. Even though a "sealed" system, the fluid does break down after long storage. It also cured the late release point at the clutch lever.. Great Advice!!!!
 
#12 ·
This thread (or another very similar on here) helped me a few months ago. My clutch had slipped badly a couple of times after being parked for a little while when out riding. I drained the master cylinder and poked some fine wire into the return port when changing the fluid and the bike did multiple pulls on the dyno not too long after with no problem.

Huge thanks to the knowledge on this forum.
 
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