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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
today for the second time in about 20 separate times riding my SP1 2000.
I went to take off from the lights after riding for about 3 minutes (same as the first time)...and I went to take off from the lights and the bike just launch as though I was almost dropping the clutch. After a bout 3 attempts of severely fanning the clutch it....came good.
2nd time its happened.

Any thoughts anybody ?

Loachy

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Discussion Starter #3
I have the clutch not working 6 months ago...and after reading these forums...I earned all the internals and reservoir.
It was sweet after that.......but on 2 occasions it has done this.

Fluid level is fine

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Mine does the exact same thing. New friction plates did not resolvd the problem. I have recently rebuilt the slave cylinder but haven't put enough miles to confirm it has fixed the problem. While it was apart I noticed small gouges in the cylinder and on the piston. I have a feeling the piston wasn't moving perfectly with the lever on release. Hard to say. Only miles will tell.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Mine does the exact same thing. New friction plates did not resolvd the problem. I have recently rebuilt the slave cylinder but haven't put enough miles to confirm it has fixed the problem. While it was apart I noticed small gouges in the cylinder and on the piston. I have a feeling the piston wasn't moving perfectly with the lever on release. Hard to say. Only miles will tell.
Thanks for your reply.. ..its bloody daunting...as it takes about 3 attempts to get off the line..

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I have an SP1 and a SP2 race bike. While I have had no issues with the stock clutch on my SP1, I did rebuild my clutch system on my SP2 this past month. I learned that there is a judder spring/washer piece from the SP2 clutch that can be retro fit on your SP1. You also have to get the correct fiber to match the judder spring. It goes in first as the clutch is assembled. These easy to get parts may help your clutch feel. Sounds like if you get the judder spring, then you order a SP2 clutch. You may be able to buy the spring and single disc separately. Also, I rebuilt my master cylinder and slave cylinder. The master was giving out and had apple jelly forming on the inside. Easy to do but I did have issues with the seals in the master because I put one on backwards. The spring from the kit didn’t fit either. And it was a bitch to get bled again. But eventually it all worked out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you...all good for thought.

As I mentioned it happened sporadically 2 times.
It's not the end of the world...but when you have to pull the clutch and try against 3 times...its concerning having somebodyin a a car rear ending me.....not to mention the faxt if your not switched on...it may be easy to drop my poor baby.. heaven forbid.



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The only thing I really dislike about my RC51 is the hydraulic clutch. I'd far rather have a cable clutch like the CBR...I hate getting dusted by anything bigger than a 300 off the grid. Sure, I know my technique needs work, but damn.
 

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motogp bikes use hydraulic clutches and they get off the line faster than anyone.

i fail to see how hydraulic is worse than cable from a smoothness of activation perspective.


maybe you need to put a judder spring in your sp1 stack.
 

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Well, being is my name isn't Marquez or Rossi, nor is my skill anywhere near that, I find it all but impossible to feather the clutch for a race start. Something I discovered in race school. All the mid and liter class bikes with cable clutches were far better off the starting grid than Miss Piggy, and that is not totally a factor of my lesser skills on the launch. What I did learn was to give up those few precious positions and then dropping the hammer at lower rpm and then nailing it as best I could to make up for lost ground. Hydraulic is on or off, no feathering works. Trust me, I've tried for years to work around this and that's all I can find that is a viable option. If it was a running start like NASCAR or F1 all would be great (and I'd still lose to the quicker faster reving I-4 bikes) but not as badly. Maybe Mike can do it, but I sure as hell can't.
 

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Check the return hole on the master cylinder, they can get clogged and cause problems. Rebuilding the cylinder wont' fix it if you didn't check it.
 
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