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Discussion Starter #1
I have a question regarding the clutch. I detect a vibration in the engine as I go off idle on the gas. Much better(almost nothing) if I have the clutch pulled in. No shudder on take off.
Otherwise it pulls like a train over 2000. Fueling is a bit lumpy low down.

Do the RC's have a charateristic clutch vibration?

I have a Fireblade as a point of reference which is like glass.

I do understand that purely by virtue of the fact that it's a twin, it's going to vibrate.

Would appreciate any comments.
 

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Haha!

Without purchasing a plane ticket, I would venture to say you are probably just babying it a little too much. Heavy flywheel V-twins need a little more throttle to get them up and rolling especially with the tall first gears.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Haha!

Without purchasing a plane ticket, I would venture to say you are probably just babying it a little too much. Heavy flywheel V-twins need a little more throttle to get them up and rolling especially with the tall first gears.
You may be right, there are no other issues with the clutch operation.
I may just pull the cover off and see how much backlash I have.
 

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you need to get a power commander, it really smooths out the fueling!
 

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Anything below 3000 rpm is going to be lumpy. A Power Commander will definitely help smooth out the fuel map, but there's no getting away from the snatchiness at that low of rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Changing sprockets from OEM 16F/40R to 15F and 41 or 42 rear should also help.

Did you do the custom paint / graphics on your RC, or buy it that way?

Looks good.
I am planning to up the gearing, I am thinking 2 teeth at the rear. I am keen to use it at the track and in the mountains here so I don't want a 300 km top speed. I would rather it stood on its back wheel when accelerating out of the bends.

In terms of the paint question, if you are referring to the profile pic that is not my bike but I was going to copy it originally, it is reminiscent of the old RC30 paint scheme. I have gone with the Castrol theme on my bike which will take the place of the profile pic when I am finished painting, hopefully in the next week or 2.
I got the castrol skins in Hong Kong and was surprised at the quality for the price, I am however doing some paintwork on them on a couple of areas where I felt they could have been better. I plan to look around for original body panels and do a complete set for the street but I can take my time on that. No hurry.

Most important thing for me at the moment is to get it to stop and go around a corner properly. No point on having all that shiny stuff and it handles like a bag of [email protected]

Having said that I have just bought some braided brake hoses so it may be 3 weeks before its done.

Oh, and I am still waiting on some tyres.
 

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15/42 or 15/41 are the most popular conversions. A lot of us have also switched to a 520 chain as well.
I have 15/42, I find it to be an ideal ratio for all the mountain roads that I ride all around my area.
 

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^ It kind of surprises me how much difference 1 tooth can make. After trying 15/41 on my bike twice now, I just don't like how it changes my prefered shifting points out on the road.
 

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That's interesting, makes sense.
On the road, which is all of my riding, I guess I'm using engine braking a little more than I realized. Since I'm not on a track, I don't need to rush into the turn and brake late.
I see my buddies brake lights come on thru turns that I use little or no brakes. Kinda messes me up if I'm to close.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
What is the logic for the chain mod to 520? Standard is 530 which I would have thought is a more robust option on a bike delivering the torque of this V Twin.
I can only guess it is a weight saving. Or am I off the mark here?

I am going to look at at least 2 teeth up at the rear to start with. I do not want to over gear it and find myself shifting up half way through long fast sweeps because I have over geared the bike.
Would anyone have any figures to work with? I would like to know what time differences are experienced in acceleration with the various ratios.
 

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What is the logic for the chain mod to 520? Standard is 530 which I would have thought is a more robust option on a bike delivering the torque of this V Twin.
I can only guess it is a weight saving. Or am I off the mark here?

I am going to look at at least 2 teeth up at the rear to start with. I do not want to over gear it and find myself shifting up half way through long fast sweeps because I have over geared the bike.
Would anyone have any figures to work with? I would like to know what time differences are experienced in acceleration with the various ratios.
1. This bike is way underpowered almost laughable when you discuss V-Twin torque and mention an RC51 in the same sentence :)

2. A quality 520 chain like the DID ERV3 let alone the ZVM-X is actually stronger than many and will last longer due to better o-ring construction than pretty much ANY OEM 530 chain built to a price point. We've been using them ERV3 on 200+hp superbikes for 2 decades. The RC cannot even begin to touch the level of abuse those bikes dish out.

3. With a 520 Kit you save about 3-4 lbs of rotational mass which greatly reduces gyroscopic precession aiding in stopping, accelerating and steering.

Pretty much everything you ever wanted to know about gearing including the gearing calculator
ROGUE RC51 Common Gearing Questions & Answers
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Interesting feed back. I think I will start with the 2 tooth up at the rear and when it comes time to replace everything then do the conversion.
I see a slipper clutch may be cool if the gears are changed and you want to avoid the rear wheel lock up during spirited riding.:grin2:

This is why these bikes never really et finished...................always one more thing to do:wink2:
 

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A slipper clutch is cool, but before you do that, I'd suggest trying a HRC throttle tube. It's 1/6 turn instead of the OEM 1/4 turn. Costs about $50.
Not making promises, but for some here, and especially me, it made a big difference in throttle control. That made for smoother shifting. Combined with a sprocket ratio you like, and a power commander, the bike behaves nicely.
 

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I guess I'm using engine braking a little more than I realized.
Yes you do.:wink2:

I can still remember before entering a turn hearing your exhaust note a bit, especially in the medium to long sweepers. Why brake at that point?:laugh:
 
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