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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, anyone on here swapped out a SP1 countershaft or gearbox output shaft as we call them? The bearing on mine shit itself racing at Brands last weekend and the bike was supposed to go to Jerez on Sat but now taking my road SP2. The countershaft swap will be a winter job.
Thanks
 

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I've never changed one but I dread this job as it may require the cases to be split. In which case, you may as well rebuild the engine.
 

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I will require splitting the cases as the bearing is pressed onto the countershaft, and the whole unit will have to swapped out. Not a trivial task.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Also to fit the front rads, coil plugs, remove all the hidden road gear, Harris HL cans.
 

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"Keep in mind that this section is for videos and/or instructions for normal maintenence, modifications, or aftermarket parts installation ONLY. If you need some info on how-to do something, look around the board and see which section is the best to address your question. This way, we can keep the threads organized and get you the fastest and correct response to your problem."

This is what the "How-To" section is for....this is posted as a sticky at the top of the section. Moved to "RC51 Tech Talk"....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
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Hi Guys the latest on the countershaft swap. Got it all back together again and found more issues on the way; the old countershaft was installed 1/4 turn out so the dowel was infact being pressed into the lower bearing recess, also when I got this bike I could hardle push it the chain was that tight, also found 2 wrong bolts installed and lastly when I got the engine back in the frame I found a cam cover bolt at 5deg and 2 sealing washers on it!!! so at least Im pleased to have found these. Anyway engine is now back in the frame and is turning over with the battery still to fit the oil pump pick up and sump and button up the JTR Corse clutch and clutch cover on and the rebuild is done, doing any mods I can along the way.
 

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Nice job done.
Just remember, while the crankcase cover is removed and the clutch basket is yet to be assembled on the shaft, to put 1-1.5lit of oil in the sump and rotate the oil pump (without the pumps' chain installed) with a power drill until you see oil pouring from the camshafts' journals.

That way, they will rotate dry as less as possible when you first start up the engine after the assembly.

Any chance to see some pictures of your "mess"? :)
 

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Nice job done.
Just remember, while the crankcase cover is removed and the clutch basket is yet to be assembled on the shaft, to put 1-1.5lit of oil in the sump and rotate the oil pump (without the pumps' chain installed) with a power drill until you see oil pouring from the camshafts' journals.

That way, they will rotate dry as less as possible when you first start up the engine after the assembly.

Any chance to see some pictures of your "mess"? :)
Which direction would you want to spin the oil pump?
 
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