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Discussion Starter #1
Just thought I'd share a recent experience. My 14 year old SP2, fitted with a Datatool Duo from new, started playing up and to cut a very long story short, I needed to isolate or remove the Duo. After much searching & ringing around, I have been able to open up the Duo box and, by shorting together certain pins, have fully disabled it so the bike starts without the need for the immobiliser key.

Wish I'd done this years ago, but if anyone wants to know the work-around, PM me for details. It's actually very easy once you know!

Only decision now is whether to leave it like this or invest time (and money?) to get it completely stripped out from the bike, as riding around with an "electronics bodge" isn't very confidence-inspiring!
 

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Cool that you figured it out, gremlins are no fun!
Why don't you go ahead and put the details up right here? I don't know that I've ever run into a thread with your particular topic, so it'd be cool to have that info archived in the open forum.
 

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Datatool Duo

I'll apologize in advance for asking a frivolous question but what is a Datatool Duo and what does it do? I'm new to RCs.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Removal instructions

Datatool is the manufacturer of vehicle alarms & immobilisers. Certainly they were popular as aftermarket fitments for bikes, especially (as in the 2000's) manufacturers didn't always offer this as standard fit. My SP2 had the Datatool Duo immobiliser fitted by the main dealer on the bike from new. Data tool were purchased by Toad Alarms, and they were taken over by Scorpion Alarms.

Anyway my Duo had cut out one a few times recently leaving me stranded, i.e. the magnetic key-fob failed to disable the immobiliser after stopping the bike. When 'phoning around, most dealers and Datatool themselves were surprised it had lasted this long. Here is how to disable the immobiliser - this means that you no longer need to use the key-fob, and the bike starts immediately on the starter button, as intended by Honda!

Firstly, if you have the "certificate of installation" you should know where the immobiliser box is situated. Sorry but I'm not permitted to upload my photos :-(

Don't destroy the box as it's water-tight and you want to keep it; we're only making some changes inside! It will have two bolts keeping the box in place, and 4x security torx (T10) screws in each corner. eBay is a great place to purchase these security torx bits.

Undo these 4 screws and lift the lid off (it may be stuck due to the red rubber seal, but prize it off carefully). Inside, all the wires are black, and you will see a 10-way white connector, and like mine, a 4-way connector (I'm told newer versions only had the 10-way). Disconnect the 10-way and 4-way (need a small screwdriver to spring open the clip) and simply short-together pins 1& 2 and 3&4 in the 4-way only, i.e. the two pairs of pins at either end (so the actual pin numbers make no difference as it's a straight 4-pin connector). I used some insulated solid core mains cable, making two small "u-shape shorties".

I then turned the bike ignition on and started it up to prove the theory! I taped up the disconnected connectors and screwed the box back together.

I was also told, but obviously can't verify, that if you only have the 10-way connector, you do the same shorting (pins 1&2, and pins 3&4), and I noticed the pins are numbered on this connector.

There you have it - no more messing with unreliable electronics. And after a long ride this weekend, I swear there's a subtle improvement in throttle response and engine pick-up (after retiring the same bike for 14 years I'm pretty good at noticing anything that changes in my bike's responses, etc.).
 

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Datatool Duo

Got it. Thanks for explaining that.
 
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