RC51 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Just purchased a 2001 SP1 (15000 miles) and all checked out on the test ride. Owner has had the bike since 2011 and rides less than 1000 miles per year. Only thing suspicious was bike cut off while idling and the seller stated it was very low on gas. We added gas and it fired right up and rode as expected with no noticeable issues.
On ride home after purchasing, bike cut off while slowing down. Pulled to side of road and turned key off and then restarted normally. Bike runs fine under power and has no noticeable issues until it just "dies" electrically. It actually did this three more times in a 20 minute period on the ride home. On one of those occasions it acted like it would not restart. Turned key off and then back on and then fired back up again. No fuel injector (MIL) codes have been noticed. I checked the kickstand switch and also made sure battery connections were tight. Any thoughts of where to start would be appreciated. I also noticed on the ride home that operating temperature would approach 205 degrees at times and wondering if this is normal.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
435 Posts
I seem to remember Wibbly once telling me the SP-1 ECUs fail on an internal fuel relay or something. I have 2000 that has a hot wire directly feeding the fuel pump to end run this failure mode...not sure that's what this is but just offering it up...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for response. I am taking it to a dealer friend of mine. It needs sprockets and chain for sure. Hoping it is something simple and fear the previous owner neglected it. Wondering too if it could be a tank vent problem or other fuel issue? I read last night on this forum someone with a similar problem years ago it was suggested to switch the high beam relay with the low fuel cutoff relay and see if that solves the problem. Very new to these bikes and hope I don't end up missing my CBR929...Of course the seller said it runs perfectly....go figure. Hope parts for these bikes are going to still be available if needed? I perhaps just made it mad with my poor riding skills since I have not been on a sport bike in several year and fear it is in the garage laughing at me.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,335 Posts
Thanks for response. I am taking it to a dealer friend of mine. It needs sprockets and chain for sure. Hoping it is something simple and fear the previous owner neglected it. Wondering too if it could be a tank vent problem or other fuel issue? I read last night on this forum someone with a similar problem years ago it was suggested to switch the high beam relay with the low fuel cutoff relay and see if that solves the problem. Very new to these bikes and hope I don't end up missing my CBR929...Of course the seller said it runs perfectly....go figure. Hope parts for these bikes are going to still be available if needed? I perhaps just made it mad with my poor riding skills since I have not been on a sport bike in several year and fear it is in the garage laughing at me.
It sounds like it does run well, once the wiring issues are resolved.:nerd:

Buy a tube of dielectric grease, some cotton swabs, and a rag and then check every electrical connection on the bike. You will be happy you spent time doing this later on.

Check the frame and battery connections too.

GL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
I've got an '04 , mine was dying intermittently , lights and all. After a couple of times I realized touching the key without even turning it made the lights come back on and it would start right up. I sprayed contact cleaner in the keyhole , let it dry over night and sprayed it again with LPS. It's been fine since.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for suggestions. I will try that if the dealer I left it with fails to come up with a solution. I drove it from my house to the dealership on the interstate about 20 minutes away in heavy rain and it did not shut down and ran as it should. Dealer said that unless it fails for them will be difficult to find the problem. Dealer did observe that the radiator fan did not seem to be coming on and wonder if that could somehow be realated? Hope it doesnt turn out to be a money pit and will update once I get it back from the dealer. I thought I was getting a pretty good price on it ($3300) when I purchases but now not so sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
I had a exactly the same problem as you, bike would run fine under load but when coming to a stop it would cut out. Does it just cut out or does it bog down?. I'm not saying this is your problem but its not a hard check, check for fault codes and see if you get any (Specifically sensors around the throttle body and airbox). i did mine and found my TPS was at fault. bit of a ball ache trying to find a decent second had set of bodies as you cant swap over the TPS unless you wanna send it off to honda to get it calibrated. but that solved all my problems and she now runs like a dream.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
The dealer phoned me and said they found that the bank angle sensor had been installed incorrectly with a "zip tie" and the way it was attached would prevent a wheelie or stoppie. Don't know why anyone would do that but he corrected it. Said also that he switched the headlight relay with the fuel cut off relay and road tested it without a problem but he is still not sure that was the issue. Good idea on the TPS and can't really remember if every time it has shut down has been on "decel" or not but definitely something to consider. Thanks for all suggestions and replies and will keep you posted when I know something further. Chain and sprockets are totally gone and getting bike back next Wednesday I hope.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I picked up the bike today with new chain and sprockets. Went two teeth larger on the back that seems to help low end performance. I must say I like the torque of this bike much better than my 929 that I sold several years ago and the sound with the M4 exhaust is amazing..
Dealer stated that the problem with the bike cutting off was most likely the bank angle sensor that was installed incorrectly and not at the right angle. He said it looked like any incline going down a hill could cause the bike to shut down. He also swapped relays and have not had a problem with it shutting down after riding about 30 minutes today. The bad news was that they checked the left radiator fan and discovered that apparently the bike had suffered some damage that bent the radiator and was keeping the fan from turning. Looks like my next project will be to find another radiator and hope the fan motor is not destroyed. The dealer said he was able to locate several aftermarket new radiators for this bike but is afraid they may not be an exact fit and possibly too large to fit properly behind the side panel. Any thoughts on that repair would be appreciated. The electrical wiring on this bike is somewhat of a "mess" however as the previous owner installed LED brake lights and eliminated the stock front turn signals and rear fender etc. Thanks to all who have replied with suggestions and ideas and looking forward to actually getting to ride this beast...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
After thinking all was repaired, went for a ride yesterday and it shut down. I hit the engine shutoff switch to off after it shut down and then back to on and it ran normally again... I noticed a flashing MIL light and got home and checked the code for 8 blinks which turns out to be throttle position sensor as someone else suggested. I guess I will be pulling the tank off unless I can access the connection by just raising it? Also not really sure exactly what the sensor looks like so any suggestions appreciated..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
The TPS is on the left side of the front throttle body on the end of the butterfly's shaft , the plug goes in from the bottom.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I disconnected the TPS and reconnected after applying dielectric grease to the connectors. Applied the grease to as many connectors as I could get to. Have put about 300 miles on the bike since then without any shutdowns and bike has been running great! No explanation for the shutdowns. Now my next issue is getting the left radiator fan to work again. The bike has been down at some point and pushed the fan into the back of the radiator just enough to allow it not to turn. Luckily, 95% of my trips are not in city "stop and go" so rarely see temperatures above 220 degrees. I will tackle the radiator repair later but now having too much fun riding this bike! I have replaced all fluids except the radiator fluid and plan to do that next (engine ice). I did add some seafoam to the tank and replaced the plugs. I guess I should probably replace fork oil also since it appears bike has been somewhat neglected. I also replaced all the brake pads that were done. Any other suggestions appreciated. This bike is certainly slower than previous bikes I have owned (GSXR 1000, CBR 1000, Honda 929) but way more fun imo.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Skip the Engine Ice and use Redline Supercool. The EI dropped my temps several degrees and the Supercool dropped it several more. If I keep moving at least 45 MPH , my temp runs at 172* in the summer in the southeast.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
I'm having the same issues on my SP1 that I picked up in March. Even after an hour of riding the radiator fan does not come on. Not sure if there is physical damage or something electrical. Any suggestions on where to start?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Its not how long you ride but how hot the coolant gets. If you have temp display on usually around 220 degrees plus the fan comes on.Stop and go in traffic is where you can see the temps climb quickly. I never have problem in normal backroads riding. Usually above 45 to I plead the 5th is fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
The SP2's fans are controlled by the ECM , the SP1 fan has a temp sensor. The SP2's fans come on at 220* and go off at 210* , the SP1 I don't know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
One thing you can do to see if there may be a physical reason the fan is not coming on. On mine, if I reach up behind the radiator and try to manually turn the fan blades you can feel that there is no way for them to turn normally because they are actually touching the back of the radiator not allowing them to spin. If they spin normally, I would think you more than likely have an electrical issue or a burned out fan motor. There is a fuse I believe in the fuse box you could check for the radiator fan. The SP1 temperature is also 220 for the single fan to come on. The sp2 had one fan for each radiator but SP1 only has the single fan on the left side.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
So FYI... i have been riding this bike since 2006 and i can tell you this bike was design to ride hot. Pipe under the seat will get very hot so shorts are out. 2 radiators because its meant to get hot. I had the same issue with cutting off when i would ride. Manual said it could be TPS or Bank sensor.... after days of looking the fuel pump would not activate when i would turn the key. The F1 light wouldnt even come on.... turned out to be the wire from the battery (+) terminal that feeds the fuel pump. (Wire connects to a terminal under rear plastic).... the problem is where the wire connects to the battery post, it gets all twisted and gets cut. You wont be able to see it, its wrapped with black electrical tape so take it off and ispect it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,663 Posts
Just purchased a 2001 SP1 (15000 miles) and all checked out on the test ride. Owner has had the bike since 2011 and rides less than 1000 miles per year. Only thing suspicious was bike cut off while idling and the seller stated it was very low on gas. We added gas and it fired right up and rode as expected with no noticeable issues.
On ride home after purchasing, bike cut off while slowing down. Pulled to side of road and turned key off and then restarted normally. Bike runs fine under power and has no noticeable issues until it just "dies" electrically. It actually did this three more times in a 20 minute period on the ride home. On one of those occasions it acted like it would not restart. Turned key off and then back on and then fired back up again. No fuel injector (MIL) codes have been noticed. I checked the kickstand switch and also made sure battery connections were tight. Any thoughts of where to start would be appreciated. I also noticed on the ride home that operating temperature would approach 205 degrees at times and wondering if this is normal.
Have you checked your fpr? You said the bike rarely got used, I suspect a bad diaphragm in the fpr. It's such an easy fix, and your symptoms fit pretty nicely.

As far as aftermarket radiators, look on ebay, there's many suppliers for RC51 rads, but you'll notice they are just distributors. The rads are all the same brand and same price. About $140 each iirc.
Honda RC51 Fans on facebook has had a few reports about them. Two of the reviews I read stated good quality but minor fitment issues. Dremel required. One guy said it rubbed the inside of his fairing. Caveat Emptor
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Have you checked your fpr? You said the bike rarely got used, I suspect a bad diaphragm in the fpr. It's such an easy fix, and your symptoms fit pretty nicely.

As far as aftermarket radiators, look on ebay, there's many suppliers for RC51 rads, but you'll notice they are just distributors. The rads are all the same brand and same price. About $140 each iirc.
Honda RC51 Fans on facebook has had a few reports about them. Two of the reviews I read stated good quality but minor fitment issues. Dremel required. One guy said it rubbed the inside of his fairing. Caveat Emptor
I probably need to change the fpr just as a precaution but have not had any noticeable problems recently. Bike is running great and kind of reluctant to fix it under the circumstances. I still don't know exactly why the bike was shutting down when I first purchased it but I have not had a problem in several weeks. If I decide to go ahead and replace the fpr will I have to remove the airbox and tank to access it?

I know I need to get the left radiator fan repaired at some point but I rarely use this bike in stop and go traffic so it has not been a real problem. I rarely see temperatures above 220 degrees and on rare occasion if I get caught in traffic somewhere I just turn it off until I am able to move again.

On an unrelated note, I added a speedoord calibrator to repair the speedometer error. I have a 43 tooth rear sprocket and stock front. This product works great and highly recommend. I had about 11% error after the gearing change that was easily corrected with this.

Thanks for response and will probably deal with the radiator when my riding activities are as not as frequent.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top