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Discussion Starter #1
Hey gang,
On my way in my FI light came on. It did not flash...was constantly on ?

When I got to work, put my bike in Neutral to back in to my parking spot and that is when it flashed 1 time ? I put the kickstand back up and placed it in gear and the light did not flash but went constant.

My manual is on my home laptop so I can not look up the correct code. Has anyone else had this happen ?

Raleigh
 

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According to the manual,
Stays lit: Faulty ECM or short in the service connector wire.
1 blink: Loose or poorly connected MAP sensor connector, Open or short circuit in MAP sensor wire, Faulty MAP sensor.
Now you can ponder that all day while you're at work, waiting till you get off so you can take a look at your bike. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks J Dog....something tells me this will be a hard one to locate diagnose...where is the MAP sensor located ?
 

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Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor (MAP) is located on throtle body on back side of body on left
Thats what u looking for,but i'm not saying this is faulty :p

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/00-01-02-03-04-05-06-2001-HONDA-RVT-1000-RC51-MAP-SENSOR-THROTTLE-BODIES-/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/$%28KGrHqV,!lUE65PvJ,MQBPRmGz%29NYQ~~60_35.JPG
 

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I suggest you follow the ECU diagnose steps described in the service manual by short wiring the service connector, kill switch to RUN position and turning on the key.
Then you should see exactly which codes are stored in the ECU and pin point the fault.

It is described in the manual that you must have the engine in N, the side stand down and the engine's speed less than 5000rpm so that the FI indicator can flash the fault's code. If any of those two are not applied then you get a constant FI indicator on.
 

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Check those tiny wires from both connectors to the ECU. I had same FI light issue and found one of the tiny wires broken on the grey connector - soldered it back up and FI light issue gone.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey guys...happened again last night

When riding my bike started to cut out on me but when given more throttle it smoothed out. The FI light came back on as well ! This intermittent stuff is killing me !!!! Also noticed a more pronounced fuel smell in the garage this morning, which is not normal. No gas on the garage floor though....Going to take her back in and have the wiring traced yet again...at this pint the only thing I know to do is replace the ECU and hope that's it...could it be the PCIII ??

I have replaced the following in the past months

Throttle Bodies
Fuel Pump

Need help gang...this is very frustrating !!
 

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What the FI does does as your riding it likely means nothing. Do as Makis said with the service connector and the steps as per the service manual, and get the proper code. It's fairly common knowledge that the ECU will store the code, unless you unplug the battery.

Do the proper diagnosis and won't have to shotgun change parts.
 

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You have changed TBs you said?

Some of the things you describe could be caused by a faulty TPS which comes solid on the TBs and cannot be adjusted.
Another thing that comes to my mind, reading your description, is a clogged injector....

Check the TPS's connector if it is properly plugged on and not corroded but it would me good if you had another TB set to try out. Just to make sure that they are not the problem.

I assume you've already checked the Fuel Pressure Regulator since it's a more than common issue on our ladies:D
 

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What the FI does does as your riding it likely means nothing. Do as Makis said with the service connector and the steps as per the service manual, and get the proper code. It's fairly common knowledge that the ECU will store the code, unless you unplug the battery.

Do the proper diagnosis and won't have to shotgun change parts.
I think this may be incorrect. I'm pretty sure the bike's ECU will store past codes until you go in and manually remove them. That's why it's a good idea to make sure you erase those old codes after you've solved the problem.
 

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I believe that's true.

When I got my SP2 ECU with the throttle bodies, it had 2 codes stored inside already.

Doesn't matter if you unplug the battery.

John, you've got the Eye of The Beholder after all :D
 

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I think this may be incorrect. I'm pretty sure the bike's ECU will store past codes until you go in and manually remove them. That's why it's a good idea to make sure you erase those old codes after you've solved the problem.
Well, that means a fault code will be found no matter what happens with the battery, so it worth checking for the OP. If there are multiple codes, the OP can erase them and then go for a ride to get the current error code to come up again.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
When I start the bike...all is fine. I ride for a bit then the FI light comes on so I was thinking this had / has something to do when she gets good and warmed up. When I stop and put the KS down, that is when I get the "1 Blink" code. It even shut down at traffic lights twice...sputtered pretty badly in the 4500 - 5k range...bucked and shuddered as well as a bit of decel popping. That's why I was thinking ECU / Fuel related, like something was telling the bike not to process fuel

Injector wise, I only run premium ( not to say that there might have been something in the gas ) and from time to time I add a bit of injector cleaner
 

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Never use injector cleaner additives, IMO

Remove the injectors and have them cleaned with ultrasound procedure.
That way they can still be clean after 40.000 miles.

Additives reduce the injector's inner filter's life and corrode any rubber element they come in contact with.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I do that Makis as many of the stations here are adding ethanol now to fuel. Ethanol was not around in '01 when my bike was made, so do it as a preventative measure. If there is any proven data I would happily review it meaning no disrespect to your opinion as there are soo many Opinions both here and speedzilla
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok...bike is back in the shop....going to try and track down what is causing her to throw a FI light ....it is VERY VERY intermittant, so I cannot say how long I will be down.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
OK...picked up the bike...we found no shorts what so ever. Will take it out later today for a test run, see if the light comes back. Somehow I think it is heat related in that it only comes on after riding a while....will keep ya posted !
 

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Raleigh, my experience with paid mechanics finding electrical gremlins is pretty dismal. I took my van to Lehr Electric, the dealership, CA Rewire, and one other shop. None of them were able to find the one single wire that was at fault. After two years of intermittent stalling, I finally got so fed up that I examined EVERY wire I could find. Turns out, the anemic 22 gauge wire going to the ignition control module had 2 strands broken inside the insulation. The tell-tale sign of heat was on the outside of the white wire, not that difficult to see, especially for a pro. I lost faith in the so-called pro's.
I don't have a solution for you here, just saying, it was my disgust and determination that drove me to find it myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I hear ya Jon....I simply do not have the knowledge and or know how...but feel free to come over anytime ya like ...;-)
 
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