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Discussion Starter #1
Just back in from a short ride and had the fuel injection light intermittently coming on and off, the bike was also jerking when the light was flashing up, not exactly confidence inspiring when your halfway round a corner and it cuts the power throwing you off your intended line, the light was only coming on for say a half a second then off again, bike would ride normal and then 10 mins later it would happen again, last time i rode it before i stored it away it had actually cut out on the way home one night, thought i was maybe a dodgy tip over sensor as i had hit a hole in the road when it cut out, it restarted after removing key

its like it was going down to 1 cyl but cant say for sure as it wasnt doing it for long, half a sec here and there, where are the common places to start lol

its a 2000 SP1

dont know if its stored any codes, but it feels more like a bad electrical connection/earth to me than a mech issues
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Why don't you try to short the service connector and see if you get a flashing code?
my bikes not here at home, its in a garage elsewhere, I've just came home to post up and ask if there is anything common with these symptoms and to check out what plug to short out for the FI codes (green one), i'll try pulling codes tomorrow, but don't think i'll find any with the way it was acting though.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I too am having the FI light come on every time I hit a bump and the bike would cut out. I tried to check the codes but the FI light didn't blink, it would just stay on. Any suggestions?



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pretty sure if it doesn't blink there isn't a code stored iirc, if it was me i'd be checking all the wiring harness and multiplugs for chaffing/bad connections, take em off and make sure they arent corroded, as that'll probably be my next step if there isnt a code stored on mine
 

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Usually this kind of behavior is when there is an electrical issue causing the ECU to reset (essentially like switching your key off/on quickly).
Checked your battery posts to ensure they are tight.
We've had instances where this same behavior occurred as the bike passed over bumps in the road or train tracks.
Also, check the wiring harness as it passes over the rear frame section near the left fuel tank lower edge.
It's not uncommon for the harness to get pinched by the tank bottom weld seam when lowered.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Usually this kind of behavior is when there is an electrical issue causing the ECU to reset (essentially like switching your key off/on quickly).
Checked your battery posts to ensure they are tight.
We've had instances where this same behavior occurred as the bike passed over bumps in the road or train tracks.
Also, check the wiring harness as it passes over the rear frame section near the left fuel tank lower edge.
It's not uncommon for the harness to get pinched by the tank bottom weld seam when lowered.
Battery posts are tight, i only know cos its needed a new battery as the alarm drained and killed the old one, also needed to clean the contacts in the ignition switch as it wasnt turning on, i do agree its more electrical issue than a part failing and throwing a code as i had an SV650 that did a similar thing and that was a wire chaffing at the seat unit, reckon what i'll do is start the bike up and start tugging on the harness to see if i can replicate it
 

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Discussion Starter #8
problem solved, turns out it was the battery terminals after all, after i installed the new battery i left a terminal off to stop it being drained when trying to diag the no ignition fault a couple of weeks ago, didnt have time so sent it to the shop and assumed they had put terminals back on...obviously not

started the bike and started pulling at wires and as soon as i touched the earth cable that comes off the rear engine casing it died
 

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I've had a few "shop errors" myself.
As such, I prefer to do the work myself. And I always refer to the service manual procedures for all jobs, great or small.
The only person who can absolutely guarantee the job was done right and to spec, is you.

And if you do have a shop perform work, make sure and give it close inspection before the key is even switched on.
I caught a dollop of bearing grease on a right brake rotor one time after having a set of tires replaced. Fortunately, I caught it before it contaminated the brake pads.
Also, if you have a set of tires mounted, a frequent issue is improper chain adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've had a few "shop errors" myself.
As such, I prefer to do the work myself. And I always refer to the service manual procedures for all jobs, great or small.
The only person who can absolutely guarantee the job was done right and to spec, is you.

And if you do have a shop perform work, make sure and give it close inspection before the key is even switched on.
I caught a dollop of bearing grease on a right brake rotor one time after having a set of tires replaced. Fortunately, I caught it before it contaminated the brake pads.
Also, if you have a set of tires mounted, a frequent issue is improper chain adjustment.
I usually do do the work myself, but didnt have the time to start diag'ing it, the guy that works on my bikes is pretty good, i can see its just been the way the no ignition fault's developed that's caused the terminals to be looked over, as when the bike got to his shop the ignition was now coming on when switching the key(probably down to me blasting ign lock with WD40 a few days beforehand), so i can see why he didn't even bother checking terminals if the ignition came on and its fired up
 
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