RC51 Forums banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,457 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I hate the way my RC (over)heats up so fast. Seems fine if I can maintain 50 to 55 mph or more, but as soon as I'm on a 35 or 40 mph road, the temp goes up, up, up.

From what I've read of others' heating issues, I don't mine has any problems ... just the way it is.

I'll take any suggestions of course, but the front mount radiators seem like the real solution.

The prob is, I have no desire to try to do the install myself - Plumbing if one thing I've never had the best luck at. Do you think a decent bike shop should be able to do it? I guess I should just call and ask.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,663 Posts
I think you could save a lot of money and get better results by adapting SPAL fans to your bike.
You still have to be moving for the front mounts to work. And you'd have to fab in a fan too, right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
447 Posts
While I have the SPAL pushers too, I would recommend installing a manual fan switch and see if that keeps you where you want to be. When I am in traffic, I flip on the fans and the bike will stay around where the thermostat wants it to be. Without the manual switch, it will rise until it reaches 220 and the ECU turns on the fans. I hate the yoyo effect and much prefer to keep it cool.

While they are totally different bikes, my VFR has a front mount and the fan rarely came on, while the RC will come on every time I am in traffic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,457 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I think you could save a lot of money and get better results by adapting SPAL fans to your bike.
You still have to be moving for the front mounts to work.
True. I just thought part of the problem is the tucked and sideways nature of the OEM rads. Seems like with front mounts, moving even say 10 or 20 mph would keep it cool ... maybe I'm wrong.

And you'd have to fab in a fan too, right?
True.

So, thinking out loud here ... the fans in a normal bike, car etc pull cooler air in from the front thru the radiator, and that now-warmer air blows over the engine, which apparently is not a problem. And Honda thought that doing the same with a sideways radiator configuration would work well. But I guess it doesn't work as well as reversing them ... pushing air from inside your fairings out over the sideways radiators. I guess guys have proven this works, but it seems questionable: you're pushing hot air from the engine over the rads ... although cooler air comes into the fairings from the front, so maybe that hot air from the engine is not as bad as I think?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,457 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
While I have the SPAL pushers too, I would recommend installing a manual fan switch and see if that keeps you where you want to be. When I am in traffic, I flip on the fans and the bike will stay around where the thermostat wants it to be. Without the manual switch, it will rise until it reaches 220 and the ECU turns on the fans. I hate the yoyo effect and much prefer to keep it cool.

While they are totally different bikes, my VFR has a front mount and the fan rarely came on, while the RC will come on every time I am in traffic.
I haven't seen mine go over 225 I think ... but then I've ridden it less than 500 miles so far. I'm sure cooler fall temps will help.

So, now I'm thinking: Maybe 220 - 225 is nothing to worry about? If my bike keeps itself below say 230 in all conditions, is that sufficient?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,327 Posts
I haven't seen mine go over 225 I think ... but then I've ridden it less than 500 miles so far. I'm sure cooler fall temps will help.

So, now I'm thinking: Maybe 220 - 225 is nothing to worry about? If my bike keeps itself below say 230 in all conditions, is that sufficient?
Yep, that's fine.
However the superhot day on your way home from work in traffic is gonna happen so get the spal mod done with a switch my 2 cents

245- 250 is meltdown
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
447 Posts
Like I said before, they are different bikes with different engines, the VFR can do a neighborhood cruise at 25-30 mph and the fan will not come on. I do not recall the fan coming on unless I was stopped in traffic.

Ideally, the RC is designed to route the air into the fairing and it eventually has to pass through the radiators to exit the fairings. In reality, particularly after being a few years old with numerous dis-assemblies and modifications, the foam and rubber seals that duct the air to the radiators have worn, or changed their position, and lots of air can escape the fairings without going through the radiators. The air comes in and leaks out through various gaps between the seals. As speeds rise above 40-50mph, there is so much air being trapped into the fairing that plenty of air passes through the rads, despite the leaks.

The problem that I see with the stock fans is that they are fighting against the natural flow of air while riding the bike. Upgrading to the SPAL's, keeps the flow in the same direction as when riding, so I am not worried about running them while traveling at speed. They are not fighting the natural flow of air.

Honda programmed the fans to turn on around 220, so I cannot imagine 220-225 being a problem ... but I would not push that logic too much farther than that. I prefer to see my temps under 200 and the switch allows me to do that. On most rides, the temps will stay around 180, and that is about where the thermostat opens.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top