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Discussion Starter #1
Tonight I was going to install a set of rotors I got from one of our members, but I twisted off one of the bolt heads.

Do I have to spend the $2.50 per bolt from Honda, or can I go to Fastenal and get 12, 6x17 button head allen bolts?

I'm not going to just replace just the one that spun off, if one twisted off, the rest need replacing.

I'm not overly concerned about weight, but I don't want to hurt anything.

Thanks,
James
 

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Hi yes you can but IMO dont use button heads as if not the first time but defo the second you will chew the heads as the socket is not deep on these. I would go for 6x20 cap screws
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've had that problem before on other things. But these are only torqued to 17Ft/Lbs. I don't see that being to much of a problem.

Last night it was either me or the Capt'n, but one of us decided to set the torque wrench at 27:mad:

Now I know this is going to be challenging for some...but lets try to keep our mines out of the gutter :rolleyes:

Fastenal didn't have any 6x20 with a head diameter of 14mm.

Its a shearing force that acts on the bolts.

So would head diameter even matter?

James
 

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how bad are the rest of the bolts? most of mine were corroded, so i replaced them all with Honda bolts. I had a head snap off as well.
 

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If you find out the specs on the bolts, I'm sure they're available elsewhere than Honda. But seeing how they hold your brake rotors, I would buy from Honda unless you're absolutely sure you're replacing with the correct bolt.
I would use a thread chaser or tap to clean the threads in all the bolt holes of your rim. But be careful and take your time. I just about screwed up one hole when I did that.
 

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I have had a front rotor bolt head shear off on me as well when I was swapping wheels. PO really overtorqued them and the head came right off, but nothing a cheap bolt extractor set from harbor freight couldn't fix.


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I have had a front rotor bolt head shear off on me as well when I was swapping wheels. PO really overtorqued them and the head came right off, but nothing a cheap bolt extractor set from harbor freight couldn't fix.
You might be dealing with some red loctite...
I've not tried to extract a broken bolt that had the red loctite applied to it, but for sure it would be a challenge. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I shouldn't go to Lowes a just pick up a bolt to replace the broken one:confused::p:D

I when I spun the head off the one, all I could think about when Dad dropped a bunch of money on a balanced set of flywheel bolts for the race car. I didn't know if these are the same in needing to a full balanced set.

With the bike only having 3200 miles on it when I picked it up, I'm sure that I'm the only one who has had them off. So onlt the red Honda thread lock, not the Locktight stuff.

Thanks for all the input guys

James

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No they are not aluminum and you should not use aluminum on there. I'd stick with Honda bolts or if you wanted to upgrade go titanium.
 

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This thread explains why to use honda bolts, or oem spec.

http://www.rc51forums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6624&page=2

Quote;
These are referred to as ‘torque to yield’ bolts. When you torque the bolt to the specified torque the threads deform plastically (permanently). This increases the holding strength of the threads by increasing the force and friction on the thread. The problem on re-use is that the thread may be deformed enough that it could bind, or re-torquing could cause a loss of clamping force, and or bolt failure. Also these bolts when used with locking compound degrade even further because of the increased torque needed to break the lock in the opposite direction.
 

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I just called ProBolt about the "race spec" aluminum bolts. They do not recommend using any aluminum bolts for the rotors, aren't the Honda ones aluminum :confused:

I would not want aluminum bolts trying to keep my rotors attached under extreme braking forces... that thought scares the shit out of me.




No they are not aluminum and you should not use aluminum on there. I'd stick with Honda bolts or if you wanted to upgrade go titanium.
+ 1here, Ti or OEM....
Torque to yeild stuff really should be replaced after use.


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The head sockets get rounded/stripped out after too much torque and breaking loose. I read the factory shop manual and no locking compound is reqiured. Just torque pressure. So I cleaned all the threads on mine then re used the old ones until the new ones come in. Should i use thread locker on the rotor bolts?

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You might be dealing with some red loctite...
I've not tried to extract a broken bolt that had the red loctite applied to it, but for sure it would be a challenge. :cool:
For the red grade, apply heat from a heat gun or blow dryer to soften for removal.
 
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