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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, so I got a 2001 RC51 that was in a minor lay down that rashed the left lower fairing. Someone hacked off all the tail lights and turn signals as well as taking the fuel pump relay. I replaced the relay today and no fuel pump priming. I can jump the relay terminals and get the pump to run and even ride the bike but I have been reading about these bank angle sensors or tip over sensors whatever you want to call them. Thing is....I don't know where they are at. Are they under the front seat or rear seat? What do they look like? I have a new undertail kit and there is no fender or undertail at all at the moment because I'm still sorting out the wiring for the lights. I also have a OEM Honda repair manual on CD-ROM coming in the mail but I would like to get this resolved ASAP. Thanks in advance for any help.
 

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Get on your butt on the left side of the bike and look right through the middle of the bike. The shock will be to your left and the bank-angle sensor is on the right. It looks like a little round solenoid with a a screw on both sides to mount it. Usually those right themselves as soon as the bike is stood back up. Did you check your bank-angle sensor relay? Its in the back on the left side of the subframe. The fuel cuttoff relay is on the right side. Mine went bad a month or 2 ago and I wasn't getting any prime from the fuel pump either. I used the relay from the high beams and it fired right up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well this was an auction bike and it had all the lights cut out of the rear and the wiring is a mess. I will take the tail back off when I get more time in the light to look at it and see what is in there. Thanks for the reply.
 

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Yeah I had to replace the rear wiring harness on my SP2 due to the previous owner's hack job.
There's a right way and a wrong way to do things, and he definitely took the stupid way and butchered the wiring.
And the trim job on the rear fender to mount the undertail looked like he took chain saw to it. It was all mangled.
So I did it right and replaced the wiring harness and rear fender, and then trimmed the finder so that the relay mounts are all in place when I mount the undertail.
Ditto for the front signals as well. I had to replace the front sub-harness as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
We must have gotten our bikes from the same guys LOL! Sounds just like mine. The black plastic under my tail section is mangled as well as the front turn signal wires. I'm still trying to find my relays cuz the only one I see at the moment is the fuel pump and the 2 on the sides of the sub frame rails that I think are for the turn signals.
 

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We must have gotten our bikes from the same guys LOL! Sounds just like mine. The black plastic under my tail section is mangled as well as the front turn signal wires. I'm still trying to find my relays cuz the only one I see at the moment is the fuel pump and the 2 on the sides of the sub frame rails that I think are for the turn signals.
I believe we both have previous bikes by Marquis de Sade customizing.

All of my relays were flopping around and there were exposed ends of wires I had to tape up to prevent shorting and blowing fuses.
I eventually zip tied the relays to the left subframe.

Now, after replacing the rear wiring harness, all the connectors and components are labeled (yeah I know, it's anal, but still nice when you want to know what relay, or connector, is what) are in their proper place.
And all connectors get a dose of dielectric grease.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Okay...so today I tore all the fairings back off and was inspecting the bike. I have disconnected and reconnected the bank angle sensor and even swapped the relays around and I still get the same thing. The bank angle sensor relay just clicks. At least I think its the relay for the bank angle sensor since they are all just kind of hanging at the back of the sub-frame. I have found 3 relays which I understand to be 1 for the bank angle sensor, 1 for the fuel cut off and 1 for the turn signals. Even after swapping them around I get nothing. I removed the BAS and shook it around and it appears to be full of liquid which I'm guessing is how its supposed to be. I get no FI light flashes....when I turn the key on the FI light comes on momentarily then goes off. HELP!!!!! I'm running out of ideas other than that the BAS is bad. Any help is appreciated.
 

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Well the four relays connected on the same harness a the rear are:
Fuel Cutoff relay, Fan Control Relay, Bank Angle Sensor Relay, and Turn Signal Relay.
The starter relay is a different assembly and wouldn't be flopping around.
The bank angle sensor would have liquid inside to damp movement and prevent accidental triggering.
Have you tried checking any FI error codes?
If there are any, it might better indicate your problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I haven't checked the error codes yet. I know there is some harness you are supposed to use a jumper wire in to pull the codes, I will have to look it up in my service manual.
 

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It's the service connector around the PGM-FI connectors.
The method to jumper and read the service codes are in the service manual.
What are the color codes of the wires to the relay that's constantly clicking?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Doesn't click constantly, just when I turn the key on or cycle the stop switch on the handlebar. The engine will crank but no fuel pump priming. There is a red/white, black/white/ red/orange, and a black wire which I think is the BAS relay that is clicking. I jumped the service connector and got a 9 blink code but I have the whole airbox taken out with the IAT sensor unplugged so that is the source of that code but I still don't know what is causing a no run on the pump. I was getting the 9 blinks and then a pause then 1 long blink followed by 1 short blink so I reset the MIL codes and hooked the IAT back up and jumped the service connector again and now no codes.........SCRATCHING MY HEAD NOW!!!!
 

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The 9 code is caused by your IAT disconnected.
The color codes relate to the Bank-Angle Sensor Relay.
It should click with ignition on and stop switch to run.
The one other relay involved, which could be a problem is the Fuel Cutoff Relay.
It has color codes brown, 2 black/white (tied together upstream), and brown/black.
That's the one that goes to the fuel pump.
Brown/black and black/white are the relay coil.
Brown and black/white is the circuit that goes to the fuel pump.
You might be able to remove your headlight relay and use it to test the other relays as they are similar.
 

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Ditto on the highbeam relay. Thats what I used when my bas relay went bad, Its right underneath the left handle bar behind the left headlight. Unhook it and swap it with the fuel cutoff since we know the bas relay is working.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Okay, swapped the high beam relay for the BAS and the fuel cut off and still no go. What next?
 

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We know from your description and color-codes that the BAS is clicking.
At least the relay coil is working.

Instead check if the headlight and fuel-cutoff relays are the same.
I believe they are, but double-check.

Then swap the headlight relay for the fuel-cutoff relay.
The BAS feeds the fuel cut-off relay coil that then controls the fuel pump.

The BAS can work all day long, but if the fuel cut-off relay is bad, there's no fuel pump operation.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Instead check if the headlight and fuel-cutoff relays are the same.
I believe they are, but double-check.

Then swap the headlight relay for the fuel-cutoff relay.
The BAS feeds the fuel cut-off relay coil that then controls the fuel pump.
Been there done that when I swapped the headlight relay. I get the same results. The relay on the BAS (when swapped with the high beam relay) just clicks.
 

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Its supposed to click. If its not the relays then its something deeper and I don't know what to tell you. I was hoping it would be something simple like the relays but I suggest you start following wires and checking all the connections. It could be anything. Sorry I couldn't help you more...
 

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You know it could possibly be the fuel pump.
Or a broken/pinched wire to the pump. It does route through that tight spot between frame and tank.
I know mine was being pinched a bit and had to re-route when I was re-wiring the bike.
 
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