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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I been checking out the older Goldwings, found this one for $500. :D
It's a 1978 GL1000.
I think it's pretty clean, I heard it run for just a minute, but it has old gas in it so it hasn't run anymore since.

I'm going to get fresh gas in it, change plugs, do a compression test, see if I can free the frozen clutch cable, etc. Then I'll try to fire it up again, maybe take it for a little ride. If it seems worthy enough, then I'll probably take it all apart, clean/restore, paint, and see what suspension improvements can be made. Rebuild the brake master, new tires, a couple more bits and hopefully I can have it looking and running good for a small budget.
It also came with Vetter full front fairing, side cases, and the trunk case.

Any and all comments, advice, ideas, suggestions are appreciated! I know next to nothing about this bike.







 

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Nice - I guess you got it fairly cheap!
I rode a CBX1000 (The 6 cylinder one) a long time ago during a VFR club visit to Germany where I switched bikes with a German owner there. A bike from around the same era. Suspension was soft and wallowy at the mere sniff of a corner and the brake woefully inadequate. So I think these things may be the first that will need attention once you have it up & running. Tires too of course.

Old fuel inside the tank is better than none! :eek:
If available, get carb gaskets / o'rings and fuel tap seals too. Take the fuel system apart and clean everything. Acetone gets rid of the varnish. I used cotton buds. The best way would be to clean with ultrasound, but you'd have to find someone with such. A carb piece clamped to something sturdy and a steam cleaner does the job - as does a jet wash...

For now, rebuild the brakes and fit braided lines if you want better feel. Brass brushes on the end of a dremmel are great for cleaning out the recesses for piston seals. :)

Looks like it'll be good to give it a paint job. If you get that far, then you'll probably be looking at replacing the front end with something more modern, new brakes and more.

BTW, once I do my RC51 front end conversion I'll be selling a set of reworked VFR750 forks (perhaps too short?), triples, Harris 6 pot calipers with a CBR1000 master cylinder + front wheel, discs, etc. Old technology, but it still works well. These calipers were able to lock the front wheel at 50 mph given a hard enough tug (I saved those :eek: moments), so they're still good. If they're of interest (no rush - I'm not doing this work for a while yet) I can take some measurements.
 

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Nice score, jondog, that thing looks really clean. How many miles? You might have said in your post already. My dad went cross country on one of them beasts when he was 18! Heavy bike but decent power he said, obviously not as heavy as the new ones! His was naked too. I think they look kinda cool and retro. Great deal though man!

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Just make sure you don't panic if something just "stops working"....keep close to the kill switch.:eek::D

Nice find:cool:
 

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Not sure, but at the front it looks as if it may have a timing belt... I'd change that too if so.
 

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Nice cruiser, I just have high hopes, that this is NOT signs of you slowing down, or showing signs of getting OLD, J-Dog :D

After I sold the 2005 F-Boy(tractor) My intentions were to purchase a Goldwing...
My wife protested, stating "she would never ride with me on a Bagger"...
an tempted me with finding a CBR1000xx for a touring/travel bike..:)
 

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Should make for a fun project, congrats. I got a chuckle out of the "preserve nature" line on that plaque...LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, this is going to be a project. Discovered the gas tank is completely toast. Rust. If you knocked on it, flakes would start falling into the gas. Which now alarms me for the carbs. Worried they may need going through.
Also, one cylinder, the #4, has 25#'s less compression than the other three.
Cylinders #1, #2, #3 all test at 155psi. (On a totally cold engine - ambient temperature about 70F degrees). Cylinder #4 came in at 130.
I'm thinking leaky rings, or burnt valve, or slight possibility of a bent valve. Because of the timing belt. I haven't removed the timing cover yet to inspect the belt, but that's next on the list. Along with a valve clearance test.
What I did do is pour a little oil in the #4 cylinder then retest for compression. To discover a possible leaky ring. The compression test showed much higher, now it jumped up to about 185 psi. Confirming leaky piston rings, right?

Not sure how much more I want to put into this bike.
If my valve clearances check out to be somewhat consistent, then I'll assume the valves aren't bent, but still could have a burnt spot, contributing to my low compression. I suppose she'd run ok, but might be a bit sluggish and smokey.
Besides the compression issue and the rusted out gas tank, it needs a proper front brake master cylinder, new clutch cable, plugs, fluids, filters, tires, and a bunch of tlc.

Thinking about letting this go and sell as a parts bike?
What do you guys think?
How much farther would you go into this bike?
 

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Seems you found Pandora's Goldwing:D

You should be able to part this out and get your dinero back....kinda sucks as this would be a solid ride to kick around on.
 

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My friend has a '95 GS500. It sat in his garage for a few years, and the tank rusted. He took it to a radiator place that said they could "fix" it. I suppose (hope) they cleaned the inside. Then they coated it with some kinda spray-on stuff, not sure what. He filled it with gas, and it held briefly. He's taken it back once already to have them re-coat it, and even now it has a super slow drip; 1 drip hanging from the tank after a day I think. Not terrible, but not something I'd be willing to leave town with. Oh, and if you tap on the thin spots, 1 on each side of the frame, where the tank's lower reservoirs hang down over the frame, it does not sound good ... not confidence inspiring. Pretty sure you could push your finger right thru. Heck, he might bump it one day and have a 1/8" stream of gas flowing onto his hot engine.

Just seems like a losing proposition to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Extrap. I've had rusty tank woes before. This one is worse.
I don't even know if it can be saved, and although I found about 30 gas tanks on Eghay, every single one of them had bad rust. Couldn't find a clean one. So that tells me something right there. Maybe Budoka could get me a OEM one, but I haven't looked around for new as I thought it would be cost prohibitive.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Seems you found Pandora's Goldwing:D

You should be able to part this out and get your dinero back....kinda sucks as this would be a solid ride to kick around on.
Damn me for being lazy and not getting my compression tester BEFORE I bought the bike.
I don't know if it's worth the effort of taking all apart; on Eghey parts are abundant and way cheap. Thinking of just throwing it up on Craigslist as a complete parts bike...
 

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Yeah, it's a big project by the sounds of it. DIY coatings to inside of the tank can come off if not properly keyed which is why it's not worth doing usually.
You can take the tank, open it, sand blast the hell out of it from underneath & the gas cap, then weld it back up & slosh some Permatex rust remover gel inside with some old nuts to get the last of the rust. There's also a company in the UK who does a good job of coating - but it's expensive.

The compression may be valves. Check for adjustment first. If that's not off, then it's not a bent valve. Unlikely to be piston rings unless there's rust in the bore. Have a look, but if your heart's not in it - then sell. It's a big slog of a project for not a lot of gratification. You'd be better off starting with something more interesting if so...

Clean it up a bit & sell on Craigslist as a non-runner for what you paid for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks Stig, by the end of the weekend I should be able to decide what to do with it.
When I look at google images of those older goldwings, I'm surely tempted, but reality may dampen my enthusiasm on this particular bike.
We'll see after a valve clearance check. Good thing is, they're not bucket and shims. They're the adjustable type.
 

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There's Gold In Them 'Wings.

Hey, John.
Congrats on the purchase. Here's hoping you have some good news on the bike.
As a tribute to your courage & admirable "can do" attitude, I have resolved to learn how to take the fairings off my bike, after owning it for more than 11 years.

Wish me luck !

As Always I Remain,
The Doctor That Other Physicians
Wish Not To Emulate.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I discovered the gas tank is rusted up pretty bad. So I took it out and did the 2 day vinegar treatment. It worked pretty good. The worst rust was in upper half of the tank. Washed it and rinsed it out with afterwards, then treated the tank with Marvel Mystery oil. Even cleaned the inside of the sending unit. It still has the pitting, it's not perfect, but I think it'll be fine now.

Image







When I drained the engine oil, it was that ugly milky color. I suppose I whipped it up some with the compression test, but I suspect the oil had been bad for some time now. Maybe years.
So I researched the NGW forum and came up with Roady's Front Engine Removal thread. Armed with that, I confirmed the water pump was bad and I pulled the engine cover and water pump out. After that, I looked in the water overflow bottle. Even tho it was bone dry, it had the tell-tale signs of oily water.

Now I want to pull the timing covers. I'll see what shape the belts are in, and that they're not misaligned. Then I'll check valve clearances. At that point, I guess I'll have to decide whether or not to pull the head with low compression, and see what's going on in there. Knowing that the bike probably ran a few hundred miles with that bad water pump, and watery oil, I'm wondering what might be lurking, wondering if the bike has overheated...
I'm not too familiar with head work on a bike, only done two head gaskets on cars before. Any advice in that area is appreciated.

The bottom of the bike is pretty juicy too, so if the engine checks out healthy enough to justify going on - then it looks like some seals are in order for the rear of the engine too.
And the carbs,
And the final drive,
And examine ALL the 35 year-old wiring and connectors,
And,
And,
This is going to be fun. :")









 

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Discussion Starter #19
I pulled the timing belt covers. The middle two bolts were missing, and just a little crispy paper seal covering the holes.


Seems like there's supposed to be bolts in the two center holes? I'll have to look closer to see if there's any threads for a bolt to go into...





I checked for the proper alignment of the cam gear arrows/mark on the housing and the T mark. It was spot on.





Then I pulled the valve covers and went about checking valve clearances, just so I have an idea of the shape it was left in. They're adjustable, so I don't have to deal with shim and buckets - that's nice.
I double-checked my readings, then repeated the process and double-checked again, because I was kind of miffed.
All valves clearances are supposed to be set at .004

Here's where they're at right now: My feeler goes to .002, most of them were less than that.
Cylinder 1 - In. >.002 Ex. >.002
Cylinder 2 - In. .002 Ex. >.002
Cylinder 3 - In. >.002 Ex. >.002
Cylinder 4 - In. .005 Ex. >.002
Cylinder 4 is the one that has the low compression. It was 125 when the other three were 150-155.

Is there a relation between the low compression and the valve clearance measurements on Cylinder #4?
Anyone think I should pull the heads and do the gaskets?
 

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A few Seafoam treatments in the first few tanks wouldn't hurt either....what a menagerie you have there. Some old people do crossword puzzles, you're a cool old man that build motorcycle engines.:p


This should be a lesson to the kiddies, always keep your tanks full and treated (Stabil or others) Not the worst tank I've seen....but its going to be a lot of work for sure.

You can do it....gook luck. If you need help with parts searching, let me know.:cool:
 
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