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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well fellas I've decided to start a thread about my 'Mini Restoration' of a 2005 SP2. I'm sure some of you have seen the previous thread and are aware of the condition in which I received this SP2. It is my first twin and I have always admired it from afar. I've been riding sport bikes for 19 years and have been on some sort of motorcycle/atv for 28. I have never been this deep into a motorcycle before. I always let the experts handle the maintenance. But as I've gotten older I've become a little bit reluctant on giving my money to strangers. In todays electronic age it seems silly to do so when we have so many resources available. I've spoken with some of you through PMs and have gotten some outstanding feedback on questions I have asked and pleas for future input/guidance. I will be hitting you up. I also ask that if there are members who read this and are mildly interested and willing to offer advice/assistance, feel free to do so. The pics from beginning to end. I'm still on the fence if I'm going to keep this thing or not once I have completed it. It will be a classic for sure and always a bike that will gather attention wherever it goes. Lets get this party started.

After 20 hours of scrubbing and cleaning


Got it inside and started removing the plasticshttp://i662.photobucket.com/albums/uu344/Handsome_Rob/photo-7.jpg

The beautiful swingarm (It had electrical tape over the hole)



Lifted the cap and found this


Another example of the grime and light surface corrosion


Changed the plugs (One on the left was the front plug)


Removed the PAIR system. Capped and clamped.


In the 'Vee' of the engine. Found several acorns in there as well.


So far I've changed the plugs, air filters, done the flapper (Part on order from dan Kyle) and removed the PAIR. I am starting the valve check either today or tomorrow. I got a feeler gauge set from harbor freight. Its the standard set that you just flip out the size you need. Anything I should look out for while doing this? What did you guys use during reassembly that would make things easier?

I look forward to getting input from the SMEs of the forum. Thanks.
 

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The steering stem is hollow steel, and it looks just like mine, with some light surface rust.
You might be able to clean it with a long wire brush attachment and paint it or coat it with rust inhibitor.

Did you also cap the PAIR hose fitting on the airbox as well? It uses a 16mm (5/8") cap similar to what you used on the PAIR valve outlets.

The spark plugs is what caught my eye. That's quite a disparity between insulators.
The insulator on my NGK plugs (recommended OEM heat range) just barely protrudes beyond the threads.
The plug on the left appears to be a much hotter plug.
What were the plug numbers for the two? They both appear to be NGK.

My clutch cover looks the same. I polished it a couple of years ago just for grins.
It looked real nice, but short of removing the cover, polishing it, then painting it with clear epoxy, the surface oxidation returns.

Ditto for the valley between the cylinders. I found small rocks, sand, bugs, etc.
As long as it stays outside the engine I'm ok with that.

That swingarm looks bad. I'd be concerned with possible structural strength with that much missing material.

My Akrapovic mid-pipe isolator mount bolt broke and allowed the exhaust to shift to the right.
The left muffler started wearing against the swingarm and wore a hole through the muffler and polished a flat spot on the swingarm.
The swingarm wasn't harmed much except for the power coating.
But the muffler will need to be rebuilt. I painted the swingarm in black epoxy and it's good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The steering stem is hollow steel, and it looks just like mine, with some light surface rust.
You might be able to clean it with a long wire brush attachment and paint it or coat it with rust inhibitor.

Did you also cap the PAIR hose fitting on the airbox as well? It uses a 16mm (5/8") cap similar to what you used on the PAIR valve outlets.

The spark plugs is what caught my eye. That's quite a disparity between insulators.
The insulator on my NGK plugs (recommended OEM heat range) just barely protrudes beyond the threads.
The plug on the left appears to be a much hotter plug.
What were the plug numbers for the two? They both appear to be NGK.

My clutch cover looks the same. I polished it a couple of years ago just for grins.
It looked real nice, but short of removing the cover, polishing it, then painting it with clear epoxy, the surface oxidation returns.

Ditto for the valley between the cylinders. I found small rocks, sand, bugs, etc.
As long as it stays outside the engine I'm ok with that.

That swingarm looks bad. I'd be concerned with possible structural strength with that much missing material.

My Akrapovic mid-pipe isolator mount bolt broke and allowed the exhaust to shift to the right.
The left muffler started wearing against the swingarm and wore a hole through the muffler and polished a flat spot on the swingarm.
The swingarm wasn't harmed much except for the power coating.
But the muffler will need to be rebuilt. I painted the swingarm in black epoxy and it's good to go.
Thats pretty much what I plan on doing to the stem. There is some stuff at work that I need to get my hands on that will eat the rust right off. The bearings feel good. The steering is solid.

Yeah I got the same little caps you recommended for the box. I put it on as well. Im gonna keep the pink drainage tube. Seems like a good idea.

I guess im gonna have to pull the manifold off and clean that area up. I know it wont stay clean forever but I can sure as hell clean the crap out of it.

The swingarm is definitely getting changed. I've PM'd with Ben at RC51parts. He has one thats powder coated silver. There is also one on speedzilla but I haven't heard back from the guy.

The plugs that came out are NGK IFR9H11. I replaced them with the same ones. When I pulled the front plug wire off a ton of dirt and debris came out. I blew out the hole (plug still installed) with 135psi of compressed air.

I guess I will start on the valves today. I still need to go get a TQ wrench as well. Is there a size that you guys recommend that will allow me to do all of the required maintenance on this thing? I don't want to have multiple TQ wrenches lying around.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well the valve check is complete. It seems the rear cylinder left intake valve is just a bit to tight. i can get a .13 in there but it requires a lot of wiggling. Im not sure if thats acceptable. Opinions?

Thanks again paul...
 

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No problem Grant.

For me, some wiggling is ok. But if you are having to hold on to the case and really force it in, then its too tight.

Now to go with this, i'm pretty anal and if i were on the end of the tolerances spectrum i'd adjust it.

There is really only two things to do to get more clearnce. buy a shim kit (about 100 dollars) and reduce the shim size to what you need. Or if your other valves are just above mid point of tolerance......swap them. By swapping shims between valves you might be able get them all within tolerance.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The fronts were crazy easy. The .13 and .28 went in with no problem. I probably could have gone with a .15 and .30 for sure. The rear intakes are tight. The right one would allow a .14 combo with a bit of wiggling. Im not sure what I'm gonna do. I damn sure am not down for buying a 80 dollar kit for a bike that im selling. Just seems silly. Maybe the stealership in the next town has some without buying an entire kit. Like you I'm a little apprehensive on the wiggling bit. I'm not sure what my next move will be...
 

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i would try to swap shims around. you could probably get them all within tolerance.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Dude if I had some experience with this I probably would give it a shot. This is the first engine I have ever gone into by myself. I wouldnt know where to begin honestly...
 

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You could also see if can swap shims with the dealer or local shop.
With all the valve adjustments done, I'm sure they have a surplus of shims.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I just did a check of the rear exhaust valves. .30 on the right and barely a .30 on the left one. With the right intake of the rear being .13 im guessing I should do both intakes? Since its at the lower limit...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Good looking out man. 'Preciate it. I've decided to do both of those rear intake valves. I figure the cam will be off so why not. If the guy ends up backing out and I end up keeping it I wont have to worry about those two for a while. With those two valves tightening up is that a sign that this thing has seen some high revs?
 

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not necessarily, how many miles are on the bike and how do your cams look? any wear marks, scorching, discoloring,etc?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It has 20k miles on it. I looked at the cams and don't see anything that would make me worry. There weren't any shavings or debris anywhere. I just figured since I had the cam off to do the left valve, might as well do the right one. Im going to have to recheck them in 12k miles and I think the chances of the right one being tight are probably high since its sitting at the lower limit now. If you all think it's silly, let me know and I wont do it. But with my luck it will be tight on the next one and I will have to do it all over again.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You could also see if can swap shims with the dealer or local shop.
With all the valve adjustments done, I'm sure they have a surplus of shims.
I contacted a dealer in a near by town and they have a shim kit that they sell shims from. I guess Ill go buy a micrometer today...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well pulled it all apart this morning. The micrometer I bought sucks ass. So I went to the stealership and they don't work on sportbikes. Rode to the Yamaha shop and they do. Ended up with two .195 shims to replace my .200 and .198 shim. They were pretty helpful and took me aside and showed me how simple the formula is. I was over thinking the process. They also only charged me 2 bucks a shim. Very nice, great success...
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)

Things went to plan and I didn't drop anything in the engine


Everything looked to be in good order


Are these marks acceptable?

Using some assembly lube with moly-graphite for reinstallation. I am installing the shims numbers down. I can't see why it would matter but just in case...
 
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