hid?
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You get what you pay for....pretty simple. The HID kits that they sell give you fancy blue lights but they provide a terrible glare for oncoming traffic.
If you want something that performs as good as it looks you need to do a custom Projector install. I would recommend the FX45 projector with OEM ballast and bulb. This will give you the perfect cutoff because you are running the light through a projector and not using the standard reflector. Look in the for sale section...I just sold this set up. Looked awesome mounted up.
If you want something that performs as good as it looks you need to do a custom Projector install. I would recommend the FX45 projector with OEM ballast and bulb. This will give you the perfect cutoff because you are running the light through a projector and not using the standard reflector. Look in the for sale section...I just sold this set up. Looked awesome mounted up.
Quad HID setup
Take a look at this setup:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=380114618064
I haven't had the chance to look at them and compare them for size, but they almost look small enough to put TWO PER SIDE in the housing with some serious fabrication.
Imagine two high and two low HIDs. Scary. The only drawback would be the 4 ballasts and the current draw.
Take a look at this setup:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=380114618064
I haven't had the chance to look at them and compare them for size, but they almost look small enough to put TWO PER SIDE in the housing with some serious fabrication.
Imagine two high and two low HIDs. Scary. The only drawback would be the 4 ballasts and the current draw.
did a "dry run" on the high beam side. so simple to wire it as intended through the stock harness. took out the old bulb. put the hid blulb in. plugged the spade connectors of the kit into the socket that the bulb used to plug into. ignition key to on. flipped the high beam on. after about 2 seconds of warm up the bulb fully lit. tried it a few times and all seemed well.
tuesday we're gonna put them in permanently. going to mount the ballasts in the tail.
tuesday we're gonna put them in permanently. going to mount the ballasts in the tail.
here is the link to the forum where i bought them.
http://www.nbriders.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=4481
http://www.nbriders.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=4481
my neighbor installed the hid lights for me. he spliced some lengthened wire in and mounted the ballasts in the trunk. the install was fairly simple and didn't need much jimmy-riggin'. i had to adda a rubber grommet to the back of the bulb so the spring would hold it snug.
a negative is that the high beam doesn't come on every time i flip the switch. it comes on most of the time but not 100% of the time. i will be patient and see how much of an issue this will be.
in the garage the light does seem a lot different. hopefully i'll be able to test them at night soon.
a negative is that the high beam doesn't come on every time i flip the switch. it comes on most of the time but not 100% of the time. i will be patient and see how much of an issue this will be.
in the garage the light does seem a lot different. hopefully i'll be able to test them at night soon.
it's dark. took the bike around the block. i like it. after i ride it for a couple months i will give an update.
if i turn the high beam off, car passes, the high beam won't come right back on. almost like the ballast needs to cool or something.
if i turn the high beam off, car passes, the high beam won't come right back on. almost like the ballast needs to cool or something.
after a couple rides i have a bit more to say about the hids.
they are definitely brighter.
they definitely have a different light.
my ballasts are mounted in my trunk. i think they might not be getting enough cooling air in there.
on/off, and on/off doesn't seem to work well. i wonder if the ballsts need a bit of time to cool off before they can ignite the bulb.
they are definitely brighter.
they definitely have a different light.
my ballasts are mounted in my trunk. i think they might not be getting enough cooling air in there.
on/off, and on/off doesn't seem to work well. i wonder if the ballsts need a bit of time to cool off before they can ignite the bulb.
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Are you talking a couple of extra seconds, or a much bigger wait? I'd have though dropping your high beam for oncoming traffic means the bulb would be off for 10-20 seconds, so if they take ages to come back on after that, one can assume the l'il units run way hot, no matter where they're mounted...
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106 Posts
Digging up an old topic, do these seem too good to be true?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/H7-Headlight...a9a4f640c&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14#ht_3512wt_1167
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/H7-Headlight...a9a4f640c&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14#ht_3512wt_1167
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275 Posts
A lot of helpful insight on the way. HID's are a funny subject. Usually the causes of glare are simple problems. Most of them compose of cheap quality kits. Regardless of whether or not you have a "knock-off" Kit or not, ballasts need to cool down.
Reflector housings are also used by top named manufacturers because of light output to the road. Examples: Volvo XC-90, Volvo S40 R, Nissan 350Z, Acura RL (Older Models), Lincoln Mark IV, Oldsmobile Bravada and so forth. They compose of D2R bulbs which are reflector housing specific and throw more light on the ground but don't have the distance of D2S and projectors. Most of the D2R bulbs have small "Casper Blades" (block light to the bottom of the reflector) to eliminate glare.
The problem with HID's in a halogen reflector is the visible spectrum of light is spread out more evenly and it must be installed correctly. The arc of light inside of the glass tube must be in proportion to where the coil filament in the halogen was or the light will not reflect properly thus causing glare. If you find that sweet spot, no more glare. Unless you start going higher in the kelvin ranges, then you're spreading out the frequency of light and it'll just be one big ball of glare. I'm gonna have to take a picture of the light on my bike to show you because it has a complete straight line.
Now I will agree with projectors. They are the absolutely best. Now if you don't mine sticking your $600 headlight assembly in the oven and risk melting it, by all means go for it. I prefer the FXR projectors. They are the FX35 projectors but with a clear lens and sharper cut off.
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One company that has earned my trust and business is DDM Tuning. I bought there kit for my truck 2 years ago and are shining bright as day 1. My bike also has it. They specialize in parts for BMW, Porsche, VW, ect. And if anyone knows HID's, it's these guys. They cover their bulbs, ballasts, ignitors and harnesses for life. Yes, for life.
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I bought the 4300k for my truck (OEM colour) and 5000k for my bike (hint of blue without sacrificing lumens) I got the kit for my truck for $65 shipped. Seems low doesn't it? But it's the best quality and best deal I've found. The single for my bike was $43. I only ran a single because after I got HID I never touched my high beam unless I wanted to flash someone to turn or move over or whatever. Keeping the halogen in there is a good idea because it's instant light that does not have to warm up.
So to each his own. Just sharing my 2 cents.
Reflector housings are also used by top named manufacturers because of light output to the road. Examples: Volvo XC-90, Volvo S40 R, Nissan 350Z, Acura RL (Older Models), Lincoln Mark IV, Oldsmobile Bravada and so forth. They compose of D2R bulbs which are reflector housing specific and throw more light on the ground but don't have the distance of D2S and projectors. Most of the D2R bulbs have small "Casper Blades" (block light to the bottom of the reflector) to eliminate glare.
The problem with HID's in a halogen reflector is the visible spectrum of light is spread out more evenly and it must be installed correctly. The arc of light inside of the glass tube must be in proportion to where the coil filament in the halogen was or the light will not reflect properly thus causing glare. If you find that sweet spot, no more glare. Unless you start going higher in the kelvin ranges, then you're spreading out the frequency of light and it'll just be one big ball of glare. I'm gonna have to take a picture of the light on my bike to show you because it has a complete straight line.
Now I will agree with projectors. They are the absolutely best. Now if you don't mine sticking your $600 headlight assembly in the oven and risk melting it, by all means go for it. I prefer the FXR projectors. They are the FX35 projectors but with a clear lens and sharper cut off.
One company that has earned my trust and business is DDM Tuning. I bought there kit for my truck 2 years ago and are shining bright as day 1. My bike also has it. They specialize in parts for BMW, Porsche, VW, ect. And if anyone knows HID's, it's these guys. They cover their bulbs, ballasts, ignitors and harnesses for life. Yes, for life.
I bought the 4300k for my truck (OEM colour) and 5000k for my bike (hint of blue without sacrificing lumens) I got the kit for my truck for $65 shipped. Seems low doesn't it? But it's the best quality and best deal I've found. The single for my bike was $43. I only ran a single because after I got HID I never touched my high beam unless I wanted to flash someone to turn or move over or whatever. Keeping the halogen in there is a good idea because it's instant light that does not have to warm up.
So to each his own. Just sharing my 2 cents.
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275 Posts
Please don't buy those. Do your bike a favor.
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