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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased a 2002 a few months back. Having just replaced all the fairing I thought it would be a good idea to repair all the PO "improvements. These include reinstalling a fuel pump relay. (It was hot wired). However by adding the relay the F1 light ( Which now I see wasn't working when I got the bike) does a slow blink ever 5 seconds. I do hear the fuel pump priming,and the relay clicking and if I use the kill switch both the f1 light stops as does the fuel pump. If I try to use the ECM green connector to get codes all I can get is a solid red light that goes back to a slow flash if I shut the key then turn it to run. I have checked "search" but could find anything. Thankful for any help.
 

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With the service connector jumpered, the ignition switch on, and the stop switch in Run.
If there is no problem, the FI light will stay on. If there is a problem, then the FI light will blink to indicate the fault code(s).

Long blinks (1.3 second duration) are 10s, and short blinks (.5 second) are 1s.
There is a brief interval between code if more than one are store in memory.

You say you have just one long blink. That could be a code 10, which is a Baro sensor, connector, or wiring issue.
The Baro sensor is the one mounted on the front of the snorkel.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I found another clue LOL. With the key turned to on, and either the kickstand pulled up or the clutch pulled back ( While the bike is in "N") I get a steady red light. I'm hopeful that that's normal and I don't have a problem. Maybe the red light should flash while on the kickstand, then go to steady state when the stand or clutch is pulled back , then go off after it starts. I had a RC51 years ago for a short time and no longer remember what that F1 light did....I'm getting old
 

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If the side stand is retracted or the engine speed is above 5000 RPM, the FI light will light and stay on.
The FI light will blink (for any fault codes) if the side stand is down or the engine speed is below 5000 RPM.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Gee, maybe all is good?

I'll know after I add gas to the replacement tank and see if it starts. Just can't figure out why I get this F1 light blinking ever 5 seconds with the stand down. Is it correct to say since I get a steady light with the stand up, if it goes out after the bike starts( If it does start) all could be o.k?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just reread your last reply, So the F1 light is giving me a code 11? Since the stand is down and its flashing?
 

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How long is the blink? If it's 1.3 seconds long, it's a 10.
If it's longer, it's a different situation.
You can clear the fault code memory and start afresh in case there's an old fault code stored.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Not getting an codes

If I short the test connector, then turn the key to run, then remove the jumper I get a solid red light, Then if I shut the bike off, then go back to start I see the F1 light flash one time every 3 or 4 seconds...unless I either pull in the clutch or raise the kick stand. Then I get the solid red light. Maybe I'm not trying to get the codes correctly? Seems pretty straight forward
 

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Code 10 is Baro sensor, that's what happens if you do the flapper mod and don't plug the baro connector back in.

I would clear all stored codes, then bridge the service connector, with sidestand down, in neutral, kill switch to run -- turn on ignition and see what the FI light does.
Don't worry too much, unless you're at high altitude, the ECU will assign an acceptable value, and your bike will run ok.
 

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Code 10 is Baro sensor, that's what happens if you do the flapper mod and don't plug the baro connector back in.

I would clear all stored codes, then bridge the service connector, with sidestand down, in neutral, kill switch to run -- turn on ignition and see what the FI light does.
Don't worry too much, unless you're at high altitude, the ECU will assign an acceptable value, and your bike will run ok.
Check the baro sensor connector....its common to forget to plug her back in.:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Here is what I found out

I took everything apart, All the connectors are hooked up, Checked for pinched wires under the tank, Turned the key and was very happy not to see a flashing F1 light ( One flash every 4 seconds) however after the 3rd time of going from start to off the light came back. So next, time to get some codes...But nothing comes up? 1) bike key switch to off, 2) short the connector with a paper clip, 3)turn bike to "on", I get the same one flash every 4 seconds. 4) remove paperclip, I get Solid red light, followed by one flash then solid red with no more flash's. I'm chasing my tail wondering if this is normal?
 

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I would reset the ECM fault record (page 86 in service manual).

Then start the bike and let it idle for a while.

Switch it off and start the process described at manual's page 85

Separate the blinks to long (1.3 sec) and short (0.5 sec) ones so you can get your fault code if there is one stored again when you run the engine before.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Some good news

As crazy as this is going to sound, I just started the bike for the 1st time since I purchased it. I got it from a young guy in the middle of the winter ( I was delivered via truck) who said it runs like a top, Since the price was right and it was so cold this winter I never started it. Then the complete fairing kit and gas tank came so I started taking it apart. Well with just about a pint of gas it started within 2 seconds, Idle smooth, revs to 4000 rpms in a second...but the F1 light does a slow flash. (One flash every 3 or 4 seconds)With the help of the very smart people on this forum I'm getting close to solving this issue. These sensors aren't a lot of money. Maybe I'm better off getting a used Baro and map ( and the one on the front air intake) and go from there. I'm real happy it starts and all the gauges,lights etc work. Funny how a little thing like a bike starting can make your whole day.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Good Lord another crazy clue

If you pull the clutch lever in while holding the bike straight up ( Like your riding) the f1 light goes from a slow blink to solid red, Let go of the lever and it goes back to a slow flash. LOL. I took it around the block it runs amazing..
 

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Discussion Starter #16
May have found the problem?

Exploring the question "Pulling in the clutch lever causes the f1 light to come on" via Google I found a few people with different bikes with the same problem. It was fixed by replacing the clutch lever. The bike did go down on that side, and if I short the two wires that go to the lever the f1 light comes on ( Kickstand down, bike not running) If all else fails I'm going to just replace the map and baro sensor and just enjoy it. This engine sure sounds nicer then my Hayabusa.
 
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