RC51 Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I will be posting pictures of my upcoming undertail install on this thread in the next couple days. It's sitting in my local UPS facility and they wouldn't give it to me. Motorcycle-Superstore doesn't let them leave things at your door so I had them call UPS and let me pick them up. Well I went to do it when UPS called me and then I got there and they said the truck would be out until after they closed. They gave me the location of the truck and I tracked it down since it was coming close to my house again. (can you tell I really wanted to get this on this weekend :) ) The driver wouldn't give me the boxes! Somehow the order got put on a hold pickup status and he wouldn't hand me my purchased goods! He drove away and left me standing in the dust...Anywho, I will be picking them up tomorrow and I'll give you guys the rundown on the install. I also have some Proton flush mount signals I'll be installing as well that were on the same truck lol.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,481 Posts
For the hotbodies install, don't go by their installation instructions. It's totally bogus.
Search on my install for photos I posted a while back.
I also run Proton blinkers. I like them a lot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
My undertail is hitting what looks like a water drain or something from below the battery box. It will not mount flush. Ever run into this?

The instructions also say there are holes to drill once marked and my undertail doesn't have any. I'm stuck for the moment on this install. I called hotbodies but no help.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,481 Posts
So instead of cutting it straight off you cut along the frame?
Exactly. If you cut straight across, your undertail will have no rear support.
It will flap up and down at the area where the rear cowl covers it.
The previous owner did that and I had to drill a hole through both and use a body clip to prevent it.

You can see where I cut the fender along the frame rails towards the battery box area (it's an SP2).
This leaves the outer portions of the fender mounted to the frame rails.
Not only does it retain the relay mount tabs, it also allows additional attachment points for the undertail at the front and rear, in addition to the body clip point where the rear cowl attaches.
I used some scrap from the fender to fashion mounting tabs for the rear portion of the undertail, and used a couple of aluminum windscreen mount screws and nylocks to attache the undertail to the tabs.

I chose a mold line near where the tool kit went. If I had it to do again, I may have went a bit more forward with my cut up to the tool kit mount.
I use the took kit mount to hold my power commander.

Also, the undertail had some minor interference with the fender portion where the ECU is mounted (on SP2). I had to use a demel tool to slightly radius the undertail so it would wrap around that part for a better fit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I'm not seeing the holes they are talking about in the instructions or how to fit it around the battery drain thing that hangs underneath. I got all the cutting done with your advice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
OK...that was a pain in the butt. Hotbodies is not as easy as the instructions would have you believe lol. NOT AT ALL. I had to cut a couple extra areas of the bike to get it to fit right.

I also got a new Harris Performance Rear Hugger from 58cycle.com
http://store.58cycle.com/product_p/hr cf hug rc51 00-01.htm

I lowered the speed of the LEDs, front and back, by changing out the relay in the tail of the bike. I got the relay from CustomLED and it just snaps right in where the old one was, no other mods required. Made all my lights blink at normal rates.
http://www.customled.com/products/flasher_relay/flasher_relay.htm

For now I'll post a link to the online photo album. I'll work on a more thorough writeup when I get some time soon! :)

PHOTOS!!!
http://picasaweb.google.com/killawatts4/RC51?feat=directlink
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I'll start with the Proton turn signals since they were fairly easy...



You start by taking off the side fairings and then the front fairing. It's pretty straight forward. If you run into trouble just refer to a service manual.



There are two different sets of clips and colored wires on each side.


Disconnect the stock signals and pull them through the front fairing.

Then run the new signals through the same way. You won't be using any of the old hardware including the rubber gasket that goes around the hole.

One tip I have is to get the washer that holds the blinker in place on ahead of time. Screw it down so it's close to the blinker but you can still fit it through the hole. It will save you time later when you're trying to put it all back together.

I chose to go with the fade in/out blink and the wires will look like this...

It will be the same on the other side, the only difference being the orange and blue wires respectively.
And here is the finished product.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
So now for the Hotbodies Undertail...

The instructions are very vague and the pictures aren't very good either. I'll try to explain some of the problems I ran into and provide any tips I can.

The Hotbodies instructions are fine up until the point you have to start cutting so I'll skip to that...

Here is a picture of the tail end dropped down. The lights are removed along with the turn signals.

You will need to disconnect the lock and cable. This hole in the middle is where the bolt goes that holds it on. The lock itself has a clip that holds it into the plastic section of the stock stuff.

This is where I started cutting...I just used a sharp locking blade to make the cut. I heard from a friend that a dremel can sometimes chew up the plastic. My cut isn't amazing but it was easy.


Relocating the relays...


I hadn't cut enough room for the new location of the lock so I had to cut more out...

They provide scotch lock connectors in the kit but I switched to solder and heat shrink to make it a little more weather proof...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I had to cut an extra slot in the hole for the lock to make it fit. The lock has a small part on the side that sticks out and won't fit into the hole Hotbodies has pre drilled. This picture shows the lock cable running to the release. I also re-used the old cover for the ECU and the rubber bungie to secure it in a new location.

I used some black duct tape to line the bottom and keep a wire down. I used some more zip ties to hold the wires to the sides...

This is a picture of the battery tray that I had to cut to help the undertail fit. The undertail was being pushed down by the battery tray on this part. It looks like a water drain for the tray. The line shows my cut...I just took a chunk out and you can't tell because the undertail covers it.

Here is a shot of the final product...I used some velcro tape from Ace in the very back end of the undertail to help secure it and make sure it didn't rattle.


There are plenty more hi-res photos of the process in my Google album here.
http://picasaweb.google.com/killawatts4/RC51?feat=directlink
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top