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Discussion Starter #1
had to take my rc for a run somewhere today and ended up in traffic, and the rc's love traffic:D ended up with the usual temp warning light flashing. temp was up to 130 degrees. just wondering the hottest temp the rc can stand b4 its a good idea to pull over and shut off the engine for cooldown.
 

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That is waaaay to hot! 130 degrees C ~ 266 Degrees F


I would change the oil immediately and make sure the antifreeze is topped off.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ok, where gettin to that uk/american metric system thing again. its healthy for a bike to run at 90 with the little circle thing in the top right? that means 90 degrees yeah?

p.s ive been/and currently am drinking so bear with me tonight
 

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ok, where gettin to that uk/american metric system thing again. its healthy for a bike to run at 90 with the little circle thing in the top right? that means 90 degrees yeah?

p.s ive been/and currently am drinking so bear with me tonight
90C is okay ~194F
 

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Discussion Starter #7
the oil was was changed recently, and the coolant, i hadnt even slowed down for that long. wtf, its a prob every 2 seconds with this bike man!

although it was mega foggy when i was out, with alot of moisture in the air, i wonder if thats responsible?
 

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You must have a fan problem. I can say that the hottest mine has been is 220f (104c) and then the fans come on and it cools down quickly. Even with the stock fans, the temp never was at 220 for more than a few seconds at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter #9

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Hey Polarbear, whatcha drink'n? :D Don't you know your manners and offer us a drink too? Jeez... :p

Your bike's temp light should come on at ~255F or approx 125C. You should turn the bike off and let it cool at that point. Madbuyer said change the oil cause you probably cooked it, at least it's gonna be very broken down. SubSailor knows for sure, but I think the max temp these engines can handle is 258F. After that, things go wrong...

Check coolant level and rad cap. If any doubt about the cap, replace it. If it's sticking when it should be letting pressure excape, that'll get you heated up.
Check your fans like you already said, they should kick in at about 220F or 104C.

The lower temp switch mod that you found, I did it. Yeah, it helps ok, but just marginal once it's more than 90F outside. I replaced the left rad, and just used the OEM temp sensor in the replacement. So I no longer have the mod, it's barely noticable. Your effort is better spent on the SPAL pusher fan, or trying to reverse the polarity and fanblade direction of the original.

Oh yeah, you could have air in your cooling system too. Try burping.
No, not the beer - the cooling system :rolleyes: :D
 

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When the engine reaches the critical temperature (122 deg C/251 deg F), the temperature display will start blinking and the coolant temp indicator comes on.
When it does that, it's time to pull it over at once and let it cool down.

If it heats beyond the critical temperature, the engine could be damaged, including piston scuffing, head warping, etc.
 

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I glanced down at the end of the back straight away and saw 234 deg at 140 mph. I'm guessing the fans were on deadheading the radiaters. I need to consider pusher fans, air scoops, or front mounted radiaters for this season.
 

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I glanced down at the end of the back straight away and saw 234 deg at 140 mph. I'm guessing the fans were on deadheading the radiaters. I need to consider pusher fans, air scoops, or front mounted radiaters for this season.
For your application scoops are probably the best....


Sent from Motorcycle.com App
 

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Discussion Starter #15
update

ok, fired up the rc this morn and let the heat build up to 107degrees (just passed the 104 for good measure) and no cooling fan kicked in (even turned the engine off and left the electrics on to check i wasnt missing it). also noticed that its idling at 1600rpm and this starts to increase to 2000rpm after 100degrees. but when ive tried to find the idle control needle, it apppears its snapped, so i cant adjust it, f knows what the prev owner was doing with this bike.

this looks like a recipe for a lot of heat build up in traffic
 

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If my memory is correct, you have an SP1, you should be able to attach a small wire across the terminals of the temperature switch (left radiator) and the fan should start. If it does not, you have a broken connection somewhere.
 

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ug, sorry to hear about all these problem polarbear. Crazy. Your mechanic should have noticed the high idle. That could be caused by a few things so someone needs to do some checking on the bike. Plus the fan issue (only one on the left on the SP1 from what I remember), and I think it is a good recommendation to change the oil as some have suggested. Back to the service manual, for much of this...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If my memory is correct, you have an SP1, you should be able to attach a small wire across the terminals of the temperature switch (left radiator) and the fan should start. If it does not, you have a broken connection somewhere.
interesting, can you explain this in a bit more detail pls m8?
 

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On the SP1, the fan switch is a simple thermal switch where the contacts make when the rated temperature is reached.
This allows current to flow through the fan to ground.
If the fan switch is bad, by using a wire, you can bypass the switch to see if the fan spins.
Nothing like simplicity.

On the SP2, a coolant temperature sensor is used to signal the ECU, which then actuates the fan control relay, which then sends current to the two fans.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
i checked the manual, and tried following it, it says "disconnect the connector from the fan motor" done that.

then it says "ground the connector with a jumper wire" ok, the fan comes on.
 
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