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Just thought I'd throw my $.02 in

-If you get the Denso plugs you will have to gap them as mentioned by others
-The front coil is a PITA to get out.
-If you buy a CBR harness and carefully remove the tape, you will get long enough wires from the two longest connectors so that you will not have to use any new wire. Simply connect to the wire you cut from the old coil and re-tape with some super 33 electrical tape. You can even reuse the plastic wire loom and it will look just like the factory wiring.
-I wouldn't even attempt this mod unless you remove the PAIR system as the top bolt for the coil is really only accessible after you remove the PAIR hose.
-To get the bottom coil bolt, remove the two bolts holding the oil cooler in place and it will move out of your way enough to get a hand in there.
The CBR wire is 18ga and the RC coil wire is 16ga. I guess if 18 was good enough for the coil on plug on the CBR, then the 18ga should be good enough for the RC.

The bike fires up faster than it ever has before and even has a different sound. Throttle response is also improved. Could it just be the new plugs? We shall see at the end of summer.
 

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I'll be doing this mod along with a shindengen rectifier. Suspect either one is a cause for 2 fried CDI converters in 3months.
 

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Haha no thanks man. I ordered some ik27s earlier today. I am already working on taking out the OEM coils and wires and getting it all wired up and ready to go so I can just throw them in once they get here. Man o man, taking out the front coil was a PITA! The bottom bolt was ridiculous. Haha. All is going smooth otherwise. How do you like the Denso plugs? I have always used NGK since my first tune up on my honda rice rockets. I think I may have used Densos once before, but I dont remember making a big deal about it. Seems not too many people like the Denso plugs on the piggy.
Sorry to bring this back to life, where did you guys buy the denso's? I can't find any with part number ik27prz11
 

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does this mod improve the spark and/or make the bike fire up any quicker? trying to work out if its worth it, or if its alot off fiddling and faffing about for just saving as much weight as a mars bar.

what are the benefits?
I'll attempt to answer your question. 3 advantages come to mind:
1) Depending on your experience, ignition wires are the weakest link in your ignition reliability, especially if you're running hotter coils (requires the wires to have, and maintain, higher dielectric strength). That said, very good wires are available and I'm not having any issues with the wires (Nology) on my Beemer boxers.
2) Lighter and less parts.
3) The big advantage is coil saturation and the time it takes to do it. When a coil starts to lose saturation, it will begin to misfire and break down under a load. As you raise RPM, your window to saturate your coil gets smaller. Given all of this happens at the speed of light (almost) and we're not pushing 12K RPM+, this isn't typically a problem but if your system isn't like new, coil-on-plug has the potential to consistently perform better at elevated RPM.

Just my 2 cents.
 

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I have been doing some thinking about the plug situation with this conversion, i am not happy with the denso ik27 gapped to 1.1 mm, i think it is an inferior product to the NGK, as we know there is no suitable NGK with a removable cap.
So i went out to my garage and smashed the old plug cap, inside is the answer, the brass fitting for the ngk terminal with enough brass behind it to get an m4 thread turned onto it to suit the COP :)
 

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I have been doing some thinking about the plug situation with this conversion, i am not happy with the denso ik27 gapped to 1.1 mm, i think it is an inferior product to the NGK, as we know there is no suitable NGK with a removable cap.
So i went out to my garage and smashed the old plug cap, inside is the answer, the brass fitting for the ngk terminal with enough brass behind it to get an m4 thread turned onto it to suit the COP :)
Yes, Dan, that works great! I just turned down 2 of them and installed in the 600 coils. The only difference is it raises the coil a little further out of the valve cover but that shouldn't be an issue.
 

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actually they unscrew from the old plug caps,but i would still take a hammer to them :)
Hi dan, I'm preparing to do this mod on my rc.
Do I understand correctly that old caps are to be cut open and then a part of interior unscrew to have piece that makes contact with standard NGK plug and on this piece a bit can get threaded so 600rr coils can grip?
 

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Hi dan, I'm preparing to do this mod on my rc.
Do I understand correctly that old caps are to be cut open and then a part of interior unscrew to have piece that makes contact with standard NGK plug and on this piece a bit can get threaded so 600rr coils can grip?
Yes but you can just unscrew them ( the bits you want), but you can carefully smash the cap with a hammer if you prefer, it's what i did :)
 

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I have been running this set up now for the last 10 years or so. Instead of cutting and splicing old connectors, I bought new connectors and crimped them. It's much cleaner.
These guys have most electrical connectors found on most bikes.

Connectors

The Plug end screws off and the coil presses over it no problem.
 

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I have a feeling this thread may have a very long shelf life. Thank you to TheGrabulator for doing this How To. :)
I'm going to do this mod, just did some research.
I purchased both the 600RR "ignition harness" and the coils together so that I would have the connectors. The coils are from an 06 600RR. AFAIK you can use any coil from 03 up. They all seem to have the same part number.
I searched 2003, 04, 05, 06, 07, 09, 15, and 2020 CBR600RR. The Coil part number is the same, ever since 2003!
Coil - 30700-MEE-641
But...
The ignition harness for 2003 - 2006 is # 32102-MEE-000
The ignition harness for 2007 - 2020 is # 32103-MFJ-D00
Since they still hook up to the same coil, is it safe to assume either harness will work for this mod? If buying new OEM, it seems the older harness is about $20 cheaper. I like the idea of brand new connectors and coils, so I'll probably buy new. Looks like about $125 to my door.
.

Any chance the images can be updated from the photo bucket jailhouse they are in now?
Maybe you're on a device but on my computer, I right clicked and chose open in new tab. Then the stupid watermark banner goes away and you can actually see it pretty good.
 

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It's been years since I did this mod - but all you really need from the harness would be the connector that goes to the plug on the coil - so the rest of the harness doesnt really matter.



I have a feeling this thread may have a very long shelf life. Thank you to TheGrabulator for doing this How To. :)
I'm going to do this mod, just did some research.


I searched 2003, 04, 05, 06, 07, 09, 15, and 2020 CBR600RR. The Coil part number is the same, ever since 2003!
Coil - 30700-MEE-641
But...
The ignition harness for 2003 - 2006 is # 32102-MEE-000
The ignition harness for 2007 - 2020 is # 32103-MFJ-D00
Since they still hook up to the same coil, is it safe to assume either harness will work for this mod? If buying new OEM, it seems the older harness is about $20 cheaper. I like the idea of brand new connectors and coils, so I'll probably buy new. Looks like about $125 to my door.
.


Maybe you're on a device but on my computer, I right clicked and chose open in new tab. Then the stupid watermark banner goes away and you can actually see it pretty good.
 

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What an easy mod to do! I just finished doing mine after finding a harness and four cop's for $50.
The toughest part is removing the original front coil.
Assuming you have removed the right fairing, unbolt the top-front radiator bracket from the frame. Then unhook the top radiator hose from the radiator. Be ready for a tiny bit of spill, I covered my front tire.
Then you can move the radiator enough to easily access the bolts on the front coil, without cracking the whole dang cooling system. It took about 5 ounces to refill the radiator when done, and no burping the cooling system.
Hope this helps a little for an already great How-To.
 

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Hey guys, just to add a little bit to this. For the grommet to seal the coil to the valve cover you can use McMaster PN# 96K89. Fits nice and snug to the valve cover bore. Just my little addition to this thread. McMaster-Carr
 
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