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Discussion Starter #1
as ive posted prev, the idle contol needle isnt working on my RC, it just turns and nothing happens, and the idle is set too high. im aware this may be quite a complicated job (or maybe not), but im wondering if theres any simple checks i can do/try tomo when its light that might help or even fix it?
 

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P.Bear... Are you refering to the dial on the right hand side down low..... Idle adjuster ???

Idle should 1250-1350 RPM's ...what is yours set at ???
 

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Discussion Starter #4
P.Bear... Are you refering to the dial on the right hand side down low..... Idle adjuster ???

Idle should 1250-1350 RPM's ...what is yours set at ???
yeah its down the right hand side of the bike, opposite position of where the choke is.

mines idle's at 1600 and this increases to 2000 or slightly above when its gets hot in traffic. hense the big temperatures im getting in city/town traffic:(
 

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Discussion Starter #5
even if i could manually adj it to 1300 then i can leave it. got a new fan switch on the way too, so these 2 fixes will take care of the heat probs
 

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That is a high idle for sure..... too high.

You need to find the cause for the adjuster not working.
Means removing the tank, airbox and digging into it. I do not know why it would just keep spinning... unless the cable has snapped or broken on the inside of the housing.
That isthe only way to adjust the idle as far as I know.... that cable screws in or out a set screw on the throttle bodies.
 

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removing all that stuff to get to the prob isnt something im gonna be able to handle. was worth askin tho.
I just lubed the adjusting screw on my idle adjustment. There's a weak point where the cable attaches to the screw. That's why I lubed the screw, so it wouldn't break.

Too bad you can't get a friend to help you with some of these repairs, cause it'll cost a lot of $ if you have to hire everything out.

I had to lift the gas tank, and remove the airbox to get access to the idle adjustment screw. Getting the airbox back on can be a real PIA, because you have to re-connect 3 hoses to the bottom of the airbox and there's very little room for the fingers. I finally used a ziptie attached to the hoses, so I could grip it and fit to the airbox nipple.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
my mechanic adjusted the throttle when i first got the bike cos, when revved, the throttle wasnt returning quickly to the return postition. after he serviced and gave the bike a good look over, now that memory serves, he did mention to me that the idle adj was broken.

as he was the last to adj the throttle, i doubt thats the prob. but ill give it a look over anyway.

any tips?
 

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DH is right about digging into it. But the tank is a pain to take off and the subframe easily scratches it. Don't attempt to take off the plastics, tank, airbox, etc unless you feel you're ready and are up to the task.
 

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Try to find any mechanic friend that can come over and give you some help. Unless you have lots of $ for mechanics. These bikes are very reliable - but they do require more maintenance than other bikes I've owned. (which ain't a whole bunch)

Get your hands on a service manual, and read through chapter 3. That's all the maintenence stuff. It's got lots of pictures, diagrams and such. I think you may be more confident to dig into your bike with a manual to guide you to the specific's. Like how to remove the airbox, or brake calipers, etc.
 

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Get your hands on a service manual, and read through chapter 3. That's all the maintenence stuff. It's got lots of pictures, diagrams and such. I think you may be more confident to dig into your bike with a manual to guide you to the specific's. Like how to remove the airbox, or brake calipers, etc.
This is good advice. I had no experience working on bikes but with the manual, ive recently changed my gas tank (including a host of other things) and in the process took off my air box just out of curiosity. Its suprising simple actually, a bit messy (the tank), but less the next time it has to come off. Oh and also ive saved hundreds avoiding the mechanics...a bit of patience and a manual is all ya need.



Sent from my SPH-L710 using Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I had to lift the gas tank, and remove the airbox to get access to the idle adjustment screw. Getting the airbox back on can be a real PIA, because you have to re-connect 3 hoses to the bottom of the airbox and there's very little room for the fingers. I finally used a ziptie attached to the hoses, so I could grip it and fit to the airbox nipple.
lol, think ill stick to checking the throttle cable for now.
 

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lol, think ill stick to checking the throttle cable for now.
I had a small issue with the throttle returning kinda slow causing a slight erratic idle.... I took the two screws outta the cap where the cables goes to the clip on, worked some wd-40 on the cables and BAM!!! throttle snaps shut and holds a solid RPM at idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I had a small issue with the throttle returning kinda slow causing a slight erratic idle.... I took the two screws outta the cap where the cables goes to the clip on, worked some wd-40 on the cables and BAM!!! throttle snaps shut and holds a solid RPM at idle.
my mech has already done all that, thats when he got the throttle grip working properly and the bike was still idling high, so he must have went to adj the idle and found that it was broken.
 

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my mech has already done all that, thats when he got the throttle grip working properly and the bike was still idling high, so he must have went to adj the idle and found that it was broken.
Ask him. Maybe you had money constraints, I don't know, but your mechanic should be able to do this with one hand behind his back. Really, for someone who works on bikes all the time, this is a cake walk. I would guess 1 to 1-1/2 hrs. Plus a new cable.
 

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Here is the needed part (item #4).
16029-MCF-003 Screw Set, Stop



The hard part is accessing or removing the throttle body.
Especially if the isolators (rubber mounts) are hard from heat and age.
If the throttle body can be removed, it's a fairly easy and straightforward replacement.

The idle set screw is viewed from the right side of the throttle body.


And how the set screw threads into the bracket.
 

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Great close up pics SubSailor.
When I said it's so easy, I was figuring you didn't have to remove the throttle bodies. It looked to me like you would just unscrew the threaded part from the bracket, and screw the new adjuster into the threads of the bracket. That's basically what I did when I lubed mine the other day.
 

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Great close up pics SubSailor.
When I said it's so easy, I was figuring you didn't have to remove the throttle bodies. It looked to me like you would just unscrew the threaded part from the bracket, and screw the new adjuster into the threads of the bracket. That's basically what I did when I lubed mine the other day.
If you can get your hands in there, it should be relatively easy and less painful than removing the throttle body.

If his throttle body is like mine, the isolators were stiff from age and heat.
To be able to remove my throttle body, I had to carefully slice the isolators down the side. And then of course order replacements.
 
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