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Hopefully you guys can help narrow this down for me. Any advice is appreciated.

I've had my 04 for about 2 years and 8k miles now. The bike has PC, full sato, and 18k miles. I DD it 3 days a week year round so it needs to function. As of 2 months ago it began giving me a minor starting issue; even though the choke was pulled the bike couldn't quite hold idle unless I gave it a little throttle on start-up. Once I did, it would settle at ~2k just like it should (with choke on) and run great.

It only needed that 'special treatment' once every 5-6 starts and usually only when it was below room temperature outside. I went out to start it earlier today when it was 50 degrees and it took three tries before it started and held idle. I had the trip reset issue and that combined with the weak start motivated me to buy a new (160$!!??!!) battery 2 months ago. It didn't really make a difference so that and the terminals/ground are not to blame.

The first winter I had my bike, with full choke it would forcefully start up. I don't know if it is a weak starter, the rectifier, or what the hell it is. I don't mind buying parts and installing them but I really do not A) want to get stuck at school/work with a busted bike or B) drop it off at a shop and have them charge me hundreds to determine "nothing is wrong."

I searched but couldn't find similar symptoms. Thanks guys.
 

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My bike kinda does the same thing on those cold morning. Last winter was pretty mild here in Mi and I was riding almost all winter. First start up on a 30 deg morning sometimes took me three times on the button while having the choke/start lever pulled open. That was a normal thing of 2-3 bumps on any morning colder than 40 deg.
Fast forward to this past summer and I had zero problems staring on first bump with lever pulled. Same battery same plugs same everything.
Fast forward a little more to the last two weeks... Its getting cold and I'm still riding to work on my Rc.
Yep the 2-3 bump of the button is the routine. After about 10 sec I can push in the lever and it will idle fine and the bike will be flawless up till the next old start.
 

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really isnt a choke,just a fast idle. your doing the same thing by holding the throttle a little open.check that when you pull it theres movement on the other end. for ref my 01 takes a little time to get going on the cold mornings as well. its been in the high 20s low 30s lately and takes a few to kick over.
 

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really isnt a choke,just a fast idle. your doing the same thing by holding the throttle a little open.check that when you pull it theres movement on the other end. for ref my 01 takes a little time to get going on the cold mornings as well. its been in the high 20s low 30s lately and takes a few to kick over.

Yep its not really a choke. All the pull lever does is open the throttle butterflies a little bit when you pull the lever out.
For me its hard to get past the choke term. All these years of vintage bikes and what's the first thing I would do before starting? Pull the choke!
"Dad... Dad! Daaaad! the bike won't start" Did you pull the choke? Oh.. no I forgot....
 

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Yep its not really a choke. All the pull lever does is open the throttle butterflies a little bit when you pull the lever out.
For me its hard to get past the choke term. All these years of vintage bikes and what's the first thing I would do before starting? Pull the choke!
"Dad... Dad! Daaaad! the bike won't start" Did you pull the choke? Oh.. no I forgot....
LMAO, certainly been there! :D
really isnt a choke,just a fast idle. your doing the same thing by holding the throttle a little open.check that when you pull it theres movement on the other end. for ref my 01 takes a little time to get going on the cold mornings as well. its been in the high 20s low 30s lately and takes a few to kick over.
According to the SvcMan, the starter valves should control the air volume to richen the mixture when the cable is pulled out. These starter valves are apparently factory set and not adjustable, unless you replace them. The Manual gives instructions to synchronize the front starter valve with the rear one, with the rear one being fixed as a baseline.
I'm having the same lag with my choke in cold weather, I'm wondering if the starter valves need attention?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
LMAO, certainly been there! :D

According to the SvcMan, the starter valves should control the air volume to richen the mixture when the cable is pulled out. These starter valves are apparently factory set and not adjustable, unless you replace them. The Manual gives instructions to synchronize the front starter valve with the rear one, with the rear one being fixed as a baseline.
I'm having the same lag with my choke in cold weather, I'm wondering if the starter valves need attention?
That is as good of a guess as I've heard thus far. Started up like a champ this morning and it was definitely chilly. Gave it 1/16th throttle or so and BOOM my whole apartment complex got a wake up call at 7AM from the full sato race exhaust. Do miss passenger pegs for taking the ladies around the block occasionally.
 

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That is as good of a guess as I've heard thus far. Started up like a champ this morning and it was definitely chilly. Gave it 1/16th throttle or so and BOOM my whole apartment complex got a wake up call at 7AM from the full sato race exhaust. Do miss passenger pegs for taking the ladies around the block occasionally.

:D :D :D
Mine does that too. If it dies within a second or so of the initial start-up, then when I restart it, POW, she jumps to life with a very impressive boom like you said. I love that sound. :p
 

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I always thought this was normal. For me it was two try's and prrrs, unless I pulled the hooha, that was always once. The most was probably 4 try's, but that happened a long time ago.


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I always thought this was normal. For me it was two try's and prrrs, unless I pulled the hooha, that was always once. The most was probably 4 try's, but that happened a long time ago.


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This thread makes me think we all bought Ducati's instead of Hondas. I expect any japanese bike to start up without issue, regardless of temperature outside of the extreme. Guess I'll just keep at it until something gernades which is not what my engineering background prescribes.
 

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I should also state that this only happens during the initial start of the day, pulling the choke starts my bike up just fine, but if I did that every day I started her up I'd loose an easy 15 mile range, perhaps one can hone in on this, that was the pattern I noticed, so I just don't bother pulling it. I also had the same characteristics with my super hawk. Now with the newer parallel twins and perhaps I4's, 05 & up, you shouldn't have that "problem" with start up. I didn't in all the years I had my 650r 45k mi on her too. My dads 750ninja was a different story....


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My bike kinda does the same thing on those cold morning. Last winter was pretty mild here in Mi and I was riding almost all winter. First start up on a 30 deg morning sometimes took me three times on the button while having the choke/start lever pulled open. That was a normal thing of 2-3 bumps on any morning colder than 40 deg.
Fast forward to this past summer and I had zero problems staring on first bump with lever pulled. Same battery same plugs same everything.
Fast forward a little more to the last two weeks... Its getting cold and I'm still riding to work on my Rc.
Yep the 2-3 bump of the button is the routine. After about 10 sec I can push in the lever and it will idle fine and the bike will be flawless up till the next old start.
Mine is exactly the same as you describe.
 

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I discovered that my choke was slipping back in some.
Normally I would pull the choke out, then turn the key, then lift the kickstand, check I'm in neutral, then I would hit the start button. Well, in that few seconds time, my choke was sliding back in. So now I pull the choke out and hold it just as I'm ready to hit the start button. That solved the issue for me.
 

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:D :D :D
Mine does that too. If it dies within a second or so of the initial start-up, then when I restart it, POW, she jumps to life with a very impressive boom like you said. I love that sound. :p
Mine does too jondog! I'm glad that I'm not the only one that has this characteristic with my RC!:) Unfortunately this is not a "cool" characteristic of our FINE Machines!

Someone mentioned the trip meter zeroing out, mine does the SAME THING! :mad: I noticed that she only does it when it's cold. After the 1st start attempt and She dies during cold idle, I'll attempt a re-start, look at the Trip meter, and it'd be zeroed out. Is there any way to stop this zero out process? Also, the guy I bought my RC from suggested I DON'T push the "idle accelerator" back in, until the temp' reaches 102 degrees. Should I continue to do this process, or should I allow it to get hotter and then depress the idle accelerator? I think I should let the temp get to @ least 132 degrees. Please give me good advise or your opinions, I appreciate you all & this forum! :)
 

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All I can tell you is I have a custom map and have NEVER used the enrichner knob EVER...
And I baby her 'till 170 deg.
 

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All I can tell you is I have a custom map and have NEVER used the enrichner knob EVER...
And I baby her 'till 170 deg.
Thanks a lot Wingnutt! :D I will NOW use the "170" rule ;) I unfortunately don't have a PC III, IV, or V so I don't have a "custom map". I will get a PC III later on down the road, and the next mod for me will be a -1 front/+2 sprockets. I THINK I may still use the stock D.I.D gold chain, since realistically, I'm only realistically increasing the rings by 1 tooth, is my logic correct? :) l think it would wake up the low-mid range :D I never cared for the top end speed.
 
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