Just bought an SP1 - Service/Maintenance Question

I'd say that unless the fuel mix is severely leaned out, then the engine should be ok.
If it was so lean that you had to worry about burning spark plugs or damaging the pistons or exhaust valves, the engine performance would be horrible.

When I first got my bike, the fuel map at mid-range (4800-6000 RPM) was so lean that you could feel the engine lose power, and if continued, would actually misfile at 5600 RPM.
After I had it remapped, so more fueling issues.

I'd have them check valve clearances, and check/replace all fluids (i.e. a full service).
I did that prior to having my bike dyno'd, since it would revving all the way to redline during the runs.

Thanks for the reply. No loss of power as far as i can tell, but it does backfire when downshifting (couple of pops every now and then). I guess I'll see if the PC3 fixes it when installed.

And I'll ask them to check what you mentioned.

This can happen with aftermarket cans or exhaust system.
The engine may be slightly on the lean side, and if the PAIR system is still installed, it also can send additional air into the exhaust to ignite any residual fuel causing the popping.
And if the engine idle is a bit low it can also cause popping as well.
Make sure your idle with engine at normal operating temperature is 1300 +/- 100 RPM.

A Power Commander install and mapping, plus removal of the PAIR system should eliminate the popping. Otherwise, it sounds like normal operation to me.

I second what subsailor has said but may also check to make sure that your exhaust connections are not leaking also because if you have an exhaust leak it will suck in air and cause the same problem. Enjoy the bike as I bought a 2001 for my wife 2 months ago and she loves it-I am almost ready to sell my TL1000R to get one....LOL.

Yeah good call the right hand side can has a small leak, where the bottom metal band is riveted around the carbon sleeve. Hopefully i should have a guy that can fix it.

Loved every minute of it so far, I can't see myself going back to an inline 4 ever again! Though i am going to get the sprockets changed because the gearing is a bit tall for my liking.

Dealerships just quoted me a fortune for a complete service, but there is no reason why I can't do the oil/filters/plugs myself and I'll just have them check the valve clearance and carb balance. Heck I can probably even do those reading through the workshop manual a few more times.

But does anyone know where i can find original OEM air filters for the sp1?

Your SP1 is fuel injected, so you wont have to worry about syncing carbs or anything like that. If you're gonna tear the bike apart far enough to remove the PAIR system, you might as well do the vavle check while you're there. Its really simple.

zootreeves said:

Dealerships just quoted me a fortune for a complete service, but there is no reason why I can't do the oil/filters/plugs myself and I'll just have them check the valve clearance and carb balance. Heck I can probably even do those reading through the workshop manual a few more times.

But does anyone know where i can find original OEM air filters for the sp1?

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Get the service manual (printer or electronic) as a reference.

For OEM parts, you can try any of the online sites.
Just google for OEM motorcycle parts.
Then compare prices.

let me know if you sell the tl...I would love one in my arsenal

Ok so the PAIR system is gone, I'm going to check the valves next when I've got some free time. Before I start can I just make sure i've got everything I need:

• Micrometer accurate to 0.01mm
• Torque wrench
• Feeler gauges - 0.127 to 0.762mm
• None Hardening sealant for the gasket
• New plugs

Shims I can get from a workshop nearby if needed. Anything i'm missing?

zootreeves said:

Ok so the PAIR system is gone, I'm going to check the valves next when I've got some free time. Before I start can I just make sure i've got everything I need:

• Micrometer accurate to 0.01mm
• Torque wrench
• Feeler gauges - 0.127 to 0.762mm
• None Hardening sealant for the gasket
• New plugs

Shims I can get from a workshop nearby if needed. Anything i'm missing?

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You've previously obtained the shop manual, so it sounds like you're good to go.
Remember, better to err on the slightly loose than too tight.

As a side note, you can get a shim kit for about $85 with three shims of each size. Then you can swap shims to/from your kit when needed.
Which is not very often as the RC51 tends to hold it's tolerances very well.

I checked mine at 40K miles and no adjustment required, at 24K miles only one exhaust valve was slightly out of tolerance.

congrats man... im looking forward to get one soon.

zootreeves said:

Measured the rear cylinder valve clearances today. One thing which isn't shown in the service manual is which are the intake and which are the exhaust valves? I'm guessing it's like this...

Cylinder Front
--------------
---Intake------Intake---
--------------------------
---Exhaust---Exhaust---
--------------
Cylinder Rear

If thats right my measurements are:

Left Intake: <0.127mm - Out
Right Intake: 0.152mm - In
Left Exhaust: 0.229mm - Out
Right Exhaust: 0.254mm - Out

Seems quite far out, probably not a good sign? Since i'm going to be changing a couple I'll follow your advice SubSailor and pick up a shim kit, Is hotcams a decent brand?

----
Edit: Is 9.48mm the diameter of shims i'm looking for?

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Hotcams is the kit that I have. I bought it from Procycle.
9.48mm is the correct diameter.
The intakes are near the center of the engine and the exhausts towards the outside of the engine.
Just make sure you have the timing marks set for the correct cylinder to check the valve clearances.
If everything is correct, it looks like 3 out of 4 valves are a little too tight.
Just do the math and select the right shim.

All done today. The only hard part I found was removing the front valve cover (without damaging the gasket) after loosening the radiator i was just about able to get it out. The front intakes valves were 0.005" which is in tolerance, but i adjusted them to 0.006" anyway, the front exhausts were bang on so no adjustment.

Impressed with the hotcams shims, but 0.0025mm intervals would be better because I had to leave the rear exhaust valves slightly loose as the adjustment step was too large to get them exactly on spec.

One problem thought some how i managed to thread the crankshaft hole cap when putting it back in I've got to buy an new alternator cover now Overall including the shims kit, torque wrench/micrometer and now the new cover i didn't save much money doing it myself, but I learnt a lot doing it and next time it will be virtually free.

Can't wait for my European bike trip now, providing it doesn't all fall to bits of-course.

Yeah the initial costs suck, but they're a one shot purchase.
Now you'll have the tools handy for the future.
As long as your valve clearances are within spec, everything is fine.
Sorry about that cover though.

Doing it yourself now you are sure that it was done right, that is why I started doing everything myself.

its good to see thst ppl arent thst sfrsid of working on thier bikes!
its like workin on cars. Just gotta jump in and do it! Glad to know everything went smooth.

zootreeves said:

...i didn't save much money doing it myself, but I learnt a lot doing it ...

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Priceless