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Discussion Starter #1
hi lads. i was out for a quick ride to check that my new coolant hose clamps are working, all looks well.

but while i was out on my quick ride, the rc just died on me, as if someone flicked the kill switch, and i coasted to the side of the road and sat there for 2 hours waiting for recovery.

the fuel pump wont prime when the ignition goes on, and when i pulled in at first and stopped the engine would turn over when the starter was pushed, but cos the fuel pump wasnt priming it wouldnt start. but now it wont turn over at all when the starter is pushed :confused:

its back at my mums garage now and its gonna need to be fixed b4 next weekend cos ive got a big ride out next sunday with another guy i met who also has an sp1 (dont worry i told him about the site)

my guess is its possibly electrical connections being soaked by my prev coolant hose explosion.

help! :(
 

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Considering your series of events I would say it is possible a connection got wet. Check your fuses is always step one then I would start by removing your fairings, disconnecting available connectors, and let it sit outside for a bit on a dry sunny day.

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It's good to have this stuff around.



Check your main 30 amp fuse by the battery, check your fuel pump cut-off relay, and check your starter relay and fuse.
30amp fuse is under the seat near the battery attached to the battery's main red cable.
Fuel cut-off relay is in the rear trunk area. On the sp1, it's supposed to be on the left rear area.
Starter relay and fuse is on the underside of the rearsection plastic, attached to the left side of the subframe. You need to remove the rearsection to access it. There's the real fuse and a spare fuse. Don't be fooled like I was the first time. :)
 

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WD40 has silicone in it, that's why painters hate it.
I don't know. I stick with the stuff that's made specifically for electronics.
I think dielectric grease is just that - silicone. But I don't know.
 

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It's good to have this stuff around.



Check your main 30 amp fuse by the battery, check your fuel pump cut-off relay, and check your starter relay and fuse.
30amp fuse is under the seat near the battery attached to the battery's main red cable.
Fuel cut-off relay is in the rear trunk area. On the sp1, it's supposed to be on the left rear area.
Starter relay and fuse is on the underside of the rearsection plastic, attached to the left side of the subframe. You need to remove the rearsection to access it. There's the real fuse and a spare fuse. Don't be fooled like I was the first time. :)
Ditto on what Jon said , get yourself some contact cleaner . After you connect the connectors use some WD -40 and lightly spray and wipe off exess , dielectric grease maybe before making connections as well . Get that part of it sorted
 

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Ditto on what Jon said , get yourself some contact cleaner . After you connect the connectors use some WD -40 and lightly spray and wipe off exess , dielectric grease maybe before making connections as well . Get that part of it sorted
Keep this crap away from your fairings....it will screw up the finish.:(

Do not use WD-40 anywhere on the bike.....the connectors will hate it over time. (so will the electrical tape and some rubber pieces.)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
either way, im gonna be doing all this with my bro after work on tuesday. at least we can all agree its probably an electrical fault. so we'll concentrate on that

any other ideas/opinions are welcome in the meantime
 

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so would i stick to the silicone grease?
Buy a tube of dielectric tuneup grease (no doubt silicone based) and put a dab in every electrical connector you run across.
One tube will last forever due to the minute amount needed.

For different reasons, both of our areas get a lot of rain at times.
Here in Florida, we also get a lot of humidity. Both of which are bad for electrical contacts.

When I replaced my wiring harnesses (due to previous owner), I noticed several connectors were green from corrosion.
This is when I started using the dielectric tuneup grease, and I can say that I have never had any electrical problems since. Despite being caught in huge downpours.
 

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Buy a tube of dielectric tuneup grease (no doubt silicone based) and put a dab in every electrical connector you run across.
One tube will last forever due to the minute amount needed.

For different reasons, both of our areas get a lot of rain at times.
Here in Florida, we also get a lot of humidity. Both of which are bad for electrical contacts.

When I replaced my wiring harnesses (due to previous owner), I noticed several connectors were green from corrosion.
This is when I started using the dielectric tuneup grease, and I can say that I have never had any electrical problems since. Despite being caught in huge downpours.
And the salt.....the friggin' salt will kill connections too.:cool:
 

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That will do the trick! Make sure you unplug the connectors and use some electric contact cleaner first. The cleaner will get rid of any moisture that's down inside the plugs.
After everything dries up then you can put the grease in there.
I know you had the blow out on the left side but this might be worth a look..
Take a look at the fuel pump on off switch. Its the red rocker switch on the right handlebar.
I had one go all funky and work and not work when it wanted.
I cleaned it all up inside and no more problems.


On a side note... is your battery located under your seat?
It so that rules out what I'm thinking..
If its mounted in the belly of the bike maybe the starter relay is down there too and also the fuses that go along with the starter/fuel system.
Maybe they didn't like the flood... if of course they are down there.
 

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If your fuel pump isn't priming there's a very quick and easy way to see if it itself is the problem. There's a three pronged plug that runs along the "driver's" (rider's left) side of the bike which connects the ECM to the fuel pump assembly. Unplug that connection and test for voltage using a multi meter. When you turn the key on, it should read around 12-14 volts. This is when the pump would normally prime. Alternatively, you can also run power directly from the battery to this plug (obviously on the side running to the pump) and see if it runs. If you get no voltage reading from the harness and your pump runs when jumped then you'll know your problem is elsewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
SUCCESS! took apart pretty much every connector on the bike, front to back. disconnect, WD40, scrape off any mouldy rusty bits, dry off with cloth and drier, silicone electrical grease up, then reconnect. took an hour and a half.

turned on the ignition, that fuel pump priming noise never sounded so sweet, and it fired back up first time. at one point i may have danced a bit, not sure.

once again thanks to you guys

one happy bear here!
 

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Glad to hear you got it sorted, Polarbear.
Seems you're learning to look after your bike bit by bit. Good stuff! :)
 
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