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Discussion Starter #1
I just purchased a 2004 RC51. The previous owner already did a lot to it, looks wise that is. Had a good looking bike till the pavement decided it wanted to get up close and personal.

So here is what I did, I take home a great bike with only cosmetic damage (or so it seems). \
Here is what I have done so far:
Stripped the busted farings off
Purchased a new ignition (key was missing)
Drained all fluids (chocolate milk came out of the oil pan...I was worried about this)
Removed all covers to do a good inspection for busted gears and other FOD, however, inside was pristine looking
Did an compression test, had 155psi and holding on both cylinders
Cleaned all the chocolate milk out and put in new oil
Flushed the coolant system (which still looked great, nice and green)

Aside from that I have just been removing items and cleaning to the best of my ability. My problem is the previous owner tried to do "stuff" to it and I am finding bolts missing or just hand tight as well as items zip tied into place.

My question is does anyone have a pdf or list the torque specs for as many bolts as possible. Like I said, hand tight bolts that hold the frame to the rear swing arm is not my idea of safe. Also, where do the collant tanks go? they were just sitting on the bike with I picked it up and now I am clueless as to where they go.

Any help you guys can offer will be great. I have a manual ordered but wont be in for a few more days and I am itching to get to work on this bike.

Thanks in advance...
Matt
 

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The internet is good. Search internet for RC51 service manual. :)

Yes, it is available and easily found. It will answer all your questions.

Good luck and hope it works out.
 

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Hey Matt, good luck with getting your bike all tidied up. Sounds like you need to go over it with a fine tooth comb.
Look in the very first Section for all the technical info, torque values, and some decent illustrations.
Section 3 covers all the maintenance stuff that you'll want to see too as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thank you guys. I have it downloaded and have already began reading. How about coolant? Do we really need to use Honda brand coolant? I read that we need Ethyl-Glycol mix that is silicate free. Well Prestone and Peak are just that and some Goldwing guys use these so is there any real reason we cannot?
Matt
 

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Thank you guys. I have it downloaded and have already began reading. How about coolant? Do we really need to use Honda brand coolant?
Matt
Not at all.
For several years, I've been using Engine Ice (which is non-toxic), but I'm shifting to Evans Waterless Coolant, which is non-corrosive (no water) and good for the life of the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Cool Cool. I thought so, but being this is the first Honda (made after 1975) that I have owned I figured I would ask. You guys are the experts.
 

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Cool Cool. I thought so, but being this is the first Honda (made after 1975) that I have owned I figured I would ask. You guys are the experts.
And Sub is one of them

I also have been running Engine Ice for the past few years. No complaints from me. But, I just wish it was cheaper so I could afford to run it in my truck. :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Two peas in a pod? I hope not! I hope my purchase goes together better than yours. Sorry about the luck. I don't like the idea of parting it out though. But it's your call...
 

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The reason it has to be silicate free is to preserve the seals inside the water pump
Agreed.

Also, one must replace their coolant every 2 years.

The chief chemical in coolant is water, which not only has a large capacity for heat absorption, but is unfortunately corrosive.

All the other ingredients in coolant are there to balance the pH of the coolant and hold particles in suspension.

Over time, the ingredients fall out of suspension, allowing the pH of the coolant to gradually become more acidic in nature.
That's when the coolant starts to corrode the cooling system from the inside out.

Also, as the ingredients fall out of suspension, they tend to clump together and grind away at the seals and water pump impeller blades.

If enough damage is done, the first indication is when coolant begins dripping out of the bypass hose, which is there to show a pump seal is leaking.
 

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fwiw, I've been using DexCool, (cause that's what I happened to have a lot of) and it seems to do just as good a job of cooling the bike as when I ran the Engine Ice.
It's silicate free.
 
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