RC51 Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, been a while but I'm back. I had an accident in the beginning of this year when i rear ended a stationary car with my SP1. Slow impact so the top fairing was the only broken panel. Scratches here and there. No structural, no engine or no liquids were touched. So I slowly pieced together the bike and about 2 months ago I finished up all the cosmetics. Since the battery was standing for 8 months I kept it charged at 12.8v. Connected it up, turned the key, no lights. toggled the kill switch, no light. no sounds, no nothing. So what now. Where do I start? Is there some sort of safety bank switch that kicked in when the bike dropped or what now?

Please help guys.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,322 Posts
check the fuses under left side fairing. and check all your connections up front to make sure nothing was knocked loose
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,663 Posts
Did you check the main fuse, 30 amp inline with the positive battery cable? It sounds like you're getting zero power from the battery, recheck all main cable connections.
Are you sure your battery is healty? I've seen more than one thread where the battery was the culprit.

As a side note, it's not a bad idea to go through all your electric connectors, unplug and clean them, and reconnect them with a dab of dielectric grease.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the expert advice guys, however. A weak battery would make some sort of movement on the instrument panel (especially one dialing in 12.8v). There is absolutely no power coming through, not even the fuel pump is priming. The main inline fuse checks out.
When I first connected up the battery it made the expected sparks like battery terminals usually do when one attach the terminals. After that there are no sparks, even if I rub the terminals on the poles nothing happens.
It did occur to me later that since I was working in the dark with only the light from a mobile phone to help me, was it possible to connect up the battery terminals the wrong way round the first time and blew up something??? I don't know, what would happen if that's the case?
Secondly, I notice a small indentation in the kill switch push button, since the bike was in a front end smash is it possible that the kill switch got a knock from the impact and decided to break?
I don't know guys, this is as much info as I have. I got badly injured during this accident with scars that's going to follow me for the rest of my life. so my motivation and drive is some what low, hence the reason the bike waited a year.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
hey dieprofeet. I still believe your issue is the battery here. Just because it is showing 12.8v doesn't mean that it can handle a load. It sounds like you have an open cell, much like I did. An open cell can be caused by manufacturing flaws, sulfate crystal buildup, or physical trauma.

I had the same issue with my bike after it sailed off a cliff. The battery read a solid 12v, but I wouldn't get any lights or power to the bike. Hook up a known good battery and see the difference.

If you've done that, and are 110% certain that it's not the battery or fuses, then it's unfortunately time to start digging through all the wires to see if something got knocked loose.

Regards and good luck,

Drew
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Hey guys. Found the problem. Beneath the bum box on the left hand side. An electrical device with a 30amp fuse on it..... wink wink.....:smile:
Thanks again for the expert advice
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
That'll do it! Glad you got it fixed and I wish you a speedy recovery to being back on the road :)
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,481 Posts
Hey guys. Found the problem. Beneath the bum box on the left hand side. An electrical device with a 30amp fuse on it..... wink wink.....:smile:
Thanks again for the expert advice
That sounds like the 30A main system fuse, housed in the starter relay.
It blows, nothing works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,663 Posts
That sounds like the 30A main system fuse, housed in the starter relay.
It blows, nothing works.
Ok, now I'm confused. :serious:
If the 30amp in the starter relay is the 'main' fuse, what is the other 30amp called? The one coming off the main battery +cable.

@dieprofeet when you say bumbox, do you mean the whole tailsection? And it was the fuse that SubSailor mentioned, on the outside of the subframe?

If so, good call @SubSailor.
But I seem to remember when my starter relay fuse failed, I still got lights and instruments. But zero starter when I thumbed the start button. That's how I figured to look there first. If I'm remembering it right...
Using that logic, that's why I initially steered OP to the battery fuse.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,481 Posts
Ok, now I'm confused. :serious:
If the 30amp in the starter relay is the 'main' fuse, what is the other 30amp called? The one coming off the main battery +cable.

@dieprofeet when you say bumbox, do you mean the whole tailsection? And it was the fuse that SubSailor mentioned, on the outside of the subframe?

If so, good call @SubSailor.
But I seem to remember when my starter relay fuse failed, I still got lights and instruments. But zero starter when I thumbed the start button. That's how I figured to look there first. If I'm remembering it right...
Using that logic, that's why I initially steered OP to the battery fuse.
The other 30A fuse, clipped to the battery cover on the SP2, is the ECU fuse.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top