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Just bought the Oberon and now want to buy a radial clutch master cylinder to match it. I want it disengage without pulling all the way back to the bar. Any of you have experience with what size worked best for this?
 

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you'll probably need a 19 bore master, which will essentially nullify the purpose of the oversized slave.


the oberon with the brembo rcs16 needs to go to the bar to fully disengage.
 

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I also ordered the Oberon slave cylinder but my local shop special ordered me an RCS17 and told me that was what Brembo recommended. Is that right? What would happen if I ran the RCS17 master with the Oberon slave? Thanks in advance.
 

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you'll probably need a 19 bore master, which will essentially nullify the purpose of the oversized slave.


the oberon with the brembo rcs16 needs to go to the bar to fully disengage.
Wibbly, Is this the case for the TSR Slave also. I bought one from Simon but have not tried it with my rcs16
 

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you'll find that the lever feel is amazing with the 16rcs and the oversized slave. i had to set my lever as far out as i could, but pulling the lever to your knuckles wasn't enough to fully disengage the clutch and get smooth downshifts. i'd have to use four fingers and pull it to the bar.

same goes for pulling away off the line from a standstill
 

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I had to pull the lever in all the way when trying to go through the gears quickly down the straightaways on the track. It was frustrating for me, because too often I would not engage the lever back enough and get false neutral. I thought getting the TSR would help. I wish I could put my CBR cable clutch on my RC-51. I hope my Q/S will solve this problem a bit.
 

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I had to pull the lever in all the way when trying to go through the gears quickly down the straightaways on the track. It was frustrating for me, because too often I would not engage the lever back enough and get false neutral. I thought getting the TSR would help. I wish I could put my CBR cable clutch on my RC-51. I hope my Q/S will solve this problem a bit.
You know you can shift up without the clutch, just roll off the power a little to unload the gears
 

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I tried and tried to perfect that on the track but I think I am not rolling off the gas enough.
Now that I am used to a Q/S shifting during full throttle,(my CBR) and I'm going with a Q/S unit on the RC also, don't think I'll be willing to roll off the power during shifting. But I definitely won't be using the OEM 3rd gear. (hopefully a NOVA)
 

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Boy this is making it sound like my 16RCS isn't going to be a quick sale. ;-(
Let us know how it works out for you 'sbkdrew'. I don't think I'd like a four finger clutch need regardless of the lever feel.

Luck!

Later,
Kent Larson in Minnesota
 

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I was already having problems with lever travel with the OEM setup during stop and go traffic as the engine would be running hotter.
I would have to change the lever (CRG) travel to max range otherwise the engine would stall alot of the times. Its like the clutch was dragging enough on the engine to stall it out.
This only happens in a fair amount of stop and go traffic.
Not sure if you know what I mean....Not sure how many of us experience alot of stop and go stuff...I mostly commute to work on my bike when I get a chance to ride it.
Otherwise no problems other than S&G traffic......
 

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LDH told me years ago when I first bought that RCS 16 clutch that I may have problems with it on RC 51 he probably can elaborate more on all
 

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drew, have you recently bled it?


requiring excessive lever travel can be the result of air in the system. it may get worse with temp.
 

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But also would think it is more about the clutch plates getting hotter with all that stop and go and causing some expansion due to excessive heat too....
 
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