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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I figured since it was 85 degrees and humid as all hel out today that it would be a good time to start on the barnett clutch replacement (sweating is an understatement...)

ANYWAY...because i am not exactly a mechanic, i need to be very careful and learn how things are put together when i remove them from the bike. so, in removing the clutch cover (which is very light!) and in removing the pressure plates, i laid everything out EXACTLY as it was when it was assembled in the bike. If you look at the pictures attached, you will see 2 things:

1.) In the close up you will see that a couple of the friction plates were absolute toast, but only on 1-2 inch sections and only on a couple of them. I also noticed that the quarter inch "grabby" part that looks and feels like cork actually popped off in my hand a couple times. that can't be normal wear, right?

2.) when you read the manual, for an SP2, the layout goes in this order (starting from pressure plate and back to the basket)
  • friction
  • steel plate
  • friction
  • steel plate
  • friction
  • steel plate
  • friction
  • steel plate
  • friction
  • steel plate
  • friction
  • steel plate
  • judder friction
Look at the 1st picture, and you will see that there was a steel plate as the first item when i removed my pressure plate, AND the judder friction disk and the friction disc before it were actually touching!

Long story short, is this why my clutch was slipping when beating on the throttle? does anyone know if there is an appointed FIRST disc from the barnett set? I was unable to distinguish any differences except on the judder disc. i didn't screw with the order they came in from the package just in case.
 

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From inner-most to outer-most:
Judder spring seat
Judder spring (with the narrow taper facing towards the seat)
Special Inner friction plate Disk B (has a larger I.D. than any other friction plate)
Steel drive plate
Friction
Steel
And so on...
Until the outmost friction plate Disk A, which has it's tabs installed in the shallow slots on the clutch hub.

For OEM plates, the 1 inner and 1 outer plates have speckles in the friction material and one tab marked green on the outside.
The remaining friction plates have no speckles in the friction material and have on tab marked red on the outside.
The PDF version of the service manual differs from the parts list as to which is Disk A or Disk B.
In the parts list, Disk B is the special innermost friction plate (pn 22202-MAT-000) that fits over the judder spring/seat while Disk A (pn 22201-MAT-000) is the outermost plate.
The remaining plates (pn 22201-MAT-E00) round up the list.

The Barnett friction plates for SP1 are all the same, pn 301-45-10008 (qty 7).
For the SP2, Barnett uses (qty 6) of the 301-45-10008, and the innermost friction plate is pn 301-45-10022 (qty 1) that fits around the judder spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Awesome, thank you. I was re-looking at the Barnett site and i couldn't find anything about the outermost disc being different, but hearing someone else say it makes me feel significantly more comfortable. Before pulling it apart, i was worried i wouldn't be able to tell which was the judder specific disc, but its pretty obvious looking at two side by side.

SubSailor....do you think that the layout of my original discs and plates could have been causing the slippage issues? i can't imagine a friction disc on on another friction disc would do ANYTHING good for a clutch action.
 
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