Joined
·
120 Posts
Let's get the fun started. Who uses what oil, and why? Good results/bad results. Does anyone else like to experiment with changing oil brands/types/weights, or is it just me? Synthetic or dino? Any takers...
Oil! What a slippery subject...
1 - 20 of 52 Posts
oil selection
The Honda mechanic who works on my bike is an RC fanatic and he recommended Mobil synthetic. He has tried Ams Oil, Castrol, etc. and even compares synth vs. traditional and feels the synth gives better protection and yet is easier on the starter. I switched to a smaller battery (YTZ7S vs the 12S) to save a bit of weight up high, and running synth oil, no problem at all starting even on a cold Michigan morning. I hope this helps.
What have/are you used/using?
The Honda mechanic who works on my bike is an RC fanatic and he recommended Mobil synthetic. He has tried Ams Oil, Castrol, etc. and even compares synth vs. traditional and feels the synth gives better protection and yet is easier on the starter. I switched to a smaller battery (YTZ7S vs the 12S) to save a bit of weight up high, and running synth oil, no problem at all starting even on a cold Michigan morning. I hope this helps.
What have/are you used/using?
Joined
·
120 Posts
I gotta tell you, I started the thread because in my mind the jury is still out (and I like to hear what is working for others). My take on the whole subject is really simple. What is used is SECONDARY to how often the oil is changed. Your engine will perform better if the oil has little or no time to break down. Because my RC is used on the track exclusively, I change the oil after every track day and the filter after every other track day. Because of the frequency I've got to marry cost with results. What works for me? Shell Rotella Synthetic...about 15 bucks/gal. from Wally's.
I've got to believe your right about frequency vs type. Can you re-use synth oils if the filter is changed? I've heard pit monkeys bragging about re-using their synthetic oils and just changing filters. That scares me, but who knows. Have you heard of this?
Joined
·
120 Posts
It seems that I've heard of the filter switch/no oil switch before. For better or worse here's my reasoning. And, yes, I'm coming from the perspective of track, not street: It costs me $27.00 to do a oil/filter change. ($15.00 for the Rotella and $12.00 for the K&N oil ,filter. I know the arguments concerning using Honda filters in lieu of aftermarket items, including those of good reputation, like K&N products. But that's a WHOLE OTHER topic. The K&N works just fine for me.) Add to that approx. $3.00 tax. For $30.00, give or take, and about one half hour's time, INCLUDING new safety wire for the filter, drain-plug and the plastic fill-hole plug, (I've done it to the point of being able to repeat it in my sleep) and I've got the peace of mind knowing that lubrication issues don't exist, even for the off times when I change the oil only (every other time). I know that the street is a whole other animal, BUT, the approx. 3k miles between oil changes (which is what I think most manufactures recommend) is still too infrequent IMO. When I rode "off track" I'd change it every 1500 miles...both oil and filter.
Joined
·
5 Posts
Hey I am new to the RC world I just bought this bike off a friend in need of cash and I could not pass up the deal. I'm a gixxer girl I know don't kill me but I am riding the RC now. I have no clue what oil should be used. the bike is an 2002 with less then 6k miles on it full yosh system power commander all that fun stuff. I want to change the fluids before I get hot an heavy on it because I have no clue how these bikes operate I do know they get hot as hell lol. Any help will be great.
Joined
·
120 Posts
What an open-ended question. Depending on how frequently you change your oil (to me more is better) and how much you want to spend, your choices are pretty wide. I like synthetic because it doesn't break down as quickly. If you go that route remember to get MOTORCYCLE oil that's compatible with the wet clutch your bike has. BTW that's applicable regardless of what oil you choose. Honda oil is fine (it's made by Mobil) and comes in either fossil, semi-synthetic or full synthetic. You can't go wrong with any of these. I would highly recommend you check out the RC51's history. Go to Wikipedia and type in "RC51" it will give you a pretty detailed background. You will also discover that your riding style will change because you now own a bike with VERY linear power as opposed to your GSXR's inline four (or any inline four, regardless of make) which makes power with RPM's. If you really want to see what your bike can do consider doing track days. The RC was SPECIFICALLY made for the track. Unlike most other sportbikes, it's not a streetbike that gets dressed up for the track. Just the opposite! Being in Savannah you've got close proximity to VIR (Virginia Int'l Raceway) and Road Atlanta. Two great tracks. Check out NESBA they're a great trackday organization. GOOD LUCK and HAVE FUN!!!
Joined
·
5 Posts
what weight would you suggest im in savannah theres not a ton of twisties but its hot as hell and i do ride her often
Joined
·
120 Posts
You won't go wrong with a good 10-40.
Joined
·
10 Posts
Why experiment with oil? I'm a firm believer in sticking with what works.
If I bought a used RC51, I would ask the old owner, "What type of oil were you using? How long did you go between changes? Did you ever have any problems with it?"
If the answer to that last question is "No," why fix what ain't broke?
If I bought a used RC51, I would ask the old owner, "What type of oil were you using? How long did you go between changes? Did you ever have any problems with it?"
If the answer to that last question is "No," why fix what ain't broke?
Joined
·
120 Posts
It's good to stick with what works. Some experimentation is also good. You may find something that works better. Maybe even save a buck or two...
Joined
·
120 Posts
Good stuff. You may want to try HP-4M semi-synthetic from Honda. I've used it in the past with great results...
Joined
·
14 Posts
i know this is an older thread butttttt.....
why not follow the factory recomendations? the weight and intervals. Honda is a large company to say the least and don't you think they have spent the $ on R & D?????? My owners manual states after the first 600mile change its only needed every 8k when riding in normal conditions. In my opinion, if you are a street rider you are wasting money, time, and hurting the environment if you change it more than the factory specs. well... you may be getting some piece of mind changing it more, but i haven't and my bike runs and starts awesome w/ 16k miles to date.
why not follow the factory recomendations? the weight and intervals. Honda is a large company to say the least and don't you think they have spent the $ on R & D?????? My owners manual states after the first 600mile change its only needed every 8k when riding in normal conditions. In my opinion, if you are a street rider you are wasting money, time, and hurting the environment if you change it more than the factory specs. well... you may be getting some piece of mind changing it more, but i haven't and my bike runs and starts awesome w/ 16k miles to date.
Joined
·
6,481 Posts
The only reason to change oil and filter is due to chemical and particulate contamination.
Unless oil is overheated beyond it's operating range, it's always good.
The viscosity modifiers (multi-weight additives) are what breaks down.
Synthetic oil has a higher operating temperature range (it was originally developed for jet engines).
It also seems to have lower friction than mineral oil.
I've always run synthetic in everything I own.
The engines just seem to last forever with hardly any deposits you'd get from mineral oil. Extra mileage too.
Ever wonder what happens to the all that used oil?
Recycled? I used to think so, but its' not.
It's filtered and then burned as fuel oil.
A shame because it's actually perfectly good oil.
Unless oil is overheated beyond it's operating range, it's always good.
The viscosity modifiers (multi-weight additives) are what breaks down.
Synthetic oil has a higher operating temperature range (it was originally developed for jet engines).
It also seems to have lower friction than mineral oil.
I've always run synthetic in everything I own.
The engines just seem to last forever with hardly any deposits you'd get from mineral oil. Extra mileage too.
Ever wonder what happens to the all that used oil?
Recycled? I used to think so, but its' not.
It's filtered and then burned as fuel oil.
A shame because it's actually perfectly good oil.
Joined
·
6,481 Posts
I've used synthetic all these years mainly due to it's higher operating temp range, it's also generally a bit more slippery for less friction.
Oil changes are only due to chemical and particulate contamination.
Unless oil is overheated, it's pretty much perfectly usable.
The viscosity modifiers that give it multi-weight properties are also what break down over time.
If you could filter out all the chemicals and particles suspended in the oil, then add fresh viscosity modifiers, you could use the same oil indefinitely.
Oil changes are only due to chemical and particulate contamination.
Unless oil is overheated, it's pretty much perfectly usable.
The viscosity modifiers that give it multi-weight properties are also what break down over time.
If you could filter out all the chemicals and particles suspended in the oil, then add fresh viscosity modifiers, you could use the same oil indefinitely.
Joined
·
120 Posts
Most of us have spent THOUSANDS on our bikes. For approx. $25.00 (assuming you do it yourself) an oil and filter change is the BEST way to ensure engine longevity. The more often the better. Regardless of what you prefer, synth or dino, all the experts agree on one thing: How often is FAR MORE critical than what type. (Before anyone comments, yes I am aware that we need to use MOTORCYCLE oil with enough friction for the wet clutch). When I was street exclusive it was every 1K miles, oil and filter. On the track, every other track day. For $25 it's the best insurance for the cheapest cost...
Joined
·
6,481 Posts
Agreed.
As I stated (ad nauseum) above, unless the oil is damaged by overheating (unlikely with water-cooled engines) the main problem is contamination.
Fresh oil and filter take care of that.
Other than that, it's a personal preference (type/brand).
Joined
·
14 Posts
i'm not a huge track guy, but this business of changing oil every time out or every other time out may seem like good insurance but to a street rider like myself it also all seems excessive...ah, who am i to wonder... change your oil every time you get gas, i'm sure the mid east thanks us!
1 - 20 of 52 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!