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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys

Well I finally got the bike through the roadworthy and licence and registration done, went to Dubai for the weekend (Friday and Saturday here)
Small problem.................. 3 laps of not too fast riding and it is up at 267 degrees farenheit and the little red light comes on. End of fun!

My question is .......... has anyone had any experience with this waterless coolant?

I saw it on a programme on TV last week where they drained the cooling system on a vehicle and replaced the coolant with this magical waterless coolant. It stopped the vehicle running hot and allowed the removal of the radiator cap at operating temperature,

Would this assist my issue or should I be looking at the front rad mod?

Would appreciate any comments.

Regards
Rob
 

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I just did a trackday using Evans waterless coolant. The outside temp was in the 60s so this may not be the best test. I normally exit the track somewhere around 230f. Yesterday I never say above 200f.

We are supposed to do a street ride tomorrow. I will let you know how that goes
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Forgot to say the outside temp was 40 degrees centigrade, I think that is 84,8 farenheit. ............

It's hot in any language!
 

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40c is 104f

that's really really hot. if you're going to be riding in situations like that often you should definitely look into a set of rad scoops at the very least.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
40c is 104f

that's really really hot. if you're going to be riding in situations like that often you should definitely look into a set of rad scoops at the very least.
I have a feeling that I will be doing that, just need some info from people with some experience. It definatly runs a lot hotter than the Fireblade. Today I spoke to the tech rep from Evans coolant, he says that it will not necessarily make the engine run cooler but will just stop turning coolant to steam and therefore eliminating air spaces in the cooling system.

I am going to have to give this some thought, my initial testing did or reveal any problems but it is difficult to reproduce track conditions on the road. It's generally always either hot or [email protected] hot here. Not much in-between........:grin2:

Anyway, would appreciate some advice if anyone has any.

Rob
 

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I have a feeling that I will be doing that, just need some info from people with some experience. It definatly runs a lot hotter than the Fireblade. Today I spoke to the tech rep from Evans coolant, he says that it will not necessarily make the engine run cooler but will just stop turning coolant to steam and therefore eliminating air spaces in the cooling system.

I am going to have to give this some thought, my initial testing did or reveal any problems but it is difficult to reproduce track conditions on the road. It's generally always either hot or [email protected] hot here. Not much in-between........:grin2:

Anyway, would appreciate some advice if anyone has any.

Rob
As stated by the Evans rep, the waterless coolant will prevent any localized steam bubbles from forming, and therefore increases the cooling efficiency.
The chief reason to use the waterless coolant is corrosion prevention caused by water.

Additives to water based coolant are there to buffer the pH and lower the freeze point. These additives fall out of solution over time with your coolant gradually becoming more corrosive, which is why you should flush and change out your coolant every 2 years.

Additionally, your cooling system has to be pressurized to raise the boiling point of water.

The waterless coolant has a boiling point of 375 F (190 C) and a freeze point of -40 F (-40 C) without the need for a pressurized system.
And obviously, without any water, there is no corrosion issues.
The upshot of this is a coolant good for the life of the engine or cooling system.

I checked into this a while back and talked with (and met) the Evans rep at AIMExpo in Orlando back in 2014.
I decided that was the way to go, and I have 2 x 1/2 gallon jugs pegged for my RC51.
 

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I recently looked into waterless coolants (non-aqueous) like “Evans” and this is what I found. It is pricey, it will last for decades, all old fluids must be completely drained, it's boiling point is over 300 degrees so it should be easier on the cooling system, however it does not conduct heat as well as water or a 50/50 mix of water and ethylene glycol. I believe the viscosity of waterless coolants has something to do with this. Make sure the radiator cap, thermostat, fans and radiators are in good order. I have been told first hand of how well the scoops work – pm duckhunter.
 

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40c is 104f

that's really really hot. if you're going to be riding in situations like that often you should definitely look into a set of rad scoops at the very least.
In Texas we just call that summer. >:)

But seriously as a long time RC owner in Texas and back before wibby large SPAL fan mounts and the rad scoops. The thing that unquestionable worked best is pure water, i use Distilled water, and one of the water wetter products i believe redline at the moment i rarely see about 200-202 F then the fans come on and drop it back down to 190 then shut off. My FZR"1000" is notorious for getting hot and when i switched it dropped down 10-15 degrees F. Yeah of course don't use it below freezing but it works. Except on by buell xb12r. It just starts pinging then melts your boys off......
 

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That cooling system has got to be in top-tip shape if you're gonna track the RC during the hot season in the Middle East. Just to cover the basics...

Since you mentioned getting the bike back on the road recently (was it sitting for awhile?) did you ensure that the cooling system was properly serviced prior to getting it roadworthy?

When was the last time the coolant was actually drained/refilled (burping the air out of it as well) ?

Did ALL of the old coolant (residue/scale) get completely flushed out (it'll never be 100%, I know) ?

I like to fill/drain a few gallons of distilled water thru the system while servicing any bike's cooling system (just my personal preference).

If you are really OCD you could remove each radiator and rinse each one out by hand over a bucket.

I mention this due to the angle that each rad is mounted on the bike. It seems difficult to completely flush/clean any old sediment/scale out of the "lower corner" of each radiator while they are still attached to the bike (hope that made sense).

Were both (SP2) cooling fans (or lone fan if SP1) functioning ?

I'm not even sure if upgrading the fans or adding scoops would be enough to keep the heat under control out there in the Middle East during track sessions - you may just have to add a giant car radiator (LOL) to the front of the bike... g'luck ! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Has anyone use a different radiator? Like a Blades or something?

I am thinking of a set of scoops and trying it again.
Does not get hot on idle at all.
Going to pull the fairings off this weekend and do the post track day service and fluid changes.

I think in the next month or so the track days take place in the evening so that should be better.

Thanks for all the input.
 

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1. I have found even with the motor I did with high comp pistons that the OEM radiator set-up was sufficient even in 100° Southern heat.

2. What I have also learned is the tune of the bike greatly affects the overall running temp. If you run a rich performance A/F ratio like 12.6:1 then it runs a lot cooler overall than if you run or 13.1 or leaner mixture.

3. You have to make 100% sure you have the cooling system working properly and that means burping it because the side mount rads are notorious for trapping air and the air displaces valuable coolant. To do this I get a couple guys over to the shop and literally lean the bike all the way to the left and all the way to the right at least twice on each side with the rad cap off and then top it off again. Yes you spill some on the ground and yes it looks retarded, but it works and works very quickly.

3. Water Wetter and distilled water is definitely a few degrees cooler running than glycol coolant of any mixture and those moriwaki radiator fins on the outside of the bike don't do shit except suck money out of your wallet.

4. The internal rad scoops like Thorsten made work well on the track as long as you are moving at pace. If you end up in traffic or moving slowly they actually cause the bike to build up additional heat that would normally be dispersed.
 

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There is a remote possibility the theromostat is stuck closed or just barely open.

When i fill mine on these if i am by myself i to force water in and open the highest point on the other side.

But LDH knows his track stuff but at temps that high it seems like there is something going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Pulled the fairing off last night and had a quick look at the levels, radiator is full and coolant level in the overflow was correct.Going to look for a universal temp gauge unit and do some testing with that, just read here that someone has a bike that runs too cold............. maybe we should swap.

One thing that did cross my mind is that I run a US spec dash and the bike was originally EU spec which means the the dash should actually being degrees celceuis and not farenheit. I thought I would just order the temp sensor for US spec but my parts book says they are the same across the range SP1, SP2, US and EUROPE.

Anyway I will investigate further. Will fit my braided brake hoses while I am messing around.

It's a project so I am going to work on it forever.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Had a look today, thermostat appears to be working fine. Temp runs up to about 218 Fahrenheit and the fans kick in, drops the temp to about 209 and goes off. There is no air in the system. Runs fine on the bench.

Cross referenced temp sensor and thermostat. Part numbers are the same for EU and US spec. Fans both pull.

So I am going to look for a generic temp gauge to test the dash reading.

Fitted my front braided hoses and replaced the fluid. Lever feels good.
Flushed the clutch fluid and bled
Drained the oil and changed the filter.
 

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Just finished another trackday at Utah Motorsports Campus (used to be MMP). I did not see any difference in my temps using the Evans over engine Ice or Distilled water/Water wetter
 
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