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RESEARCH????????? INSTEAD of being a prick:rolleyes:
Suspension is the best spent money and upgrade to ANY motorcycle... Allowing your motorcycle to work with you thru the curves.
On a budget, dropping 1 tooth on the front sprocket. Is quick cheap and just an adjustment of the chain tension.
Flapper valve- pull the tube( PLUG-IT) done... No need to mod anymore, just in case you decide to sale the bike.
Stick-coils conversion is also a fairly cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have,found out about the flapper, not sure on it actually changed sprockets,not really happy on that,I have zero exhaust sounds good lol,and has power commander but no tunes in it.looking for other performance ad on or anything to help it,thanks for replying
 

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that mods page is a great resource.

imo, the best bang for the buck mods are weight reduction and suspension mods because those are the 2 big things that hold the RC back from the newer sportbikes. lighter wheels (forged aluminum, magnesium, etc) make a huge difference as well as getting your fork revalved/resprung and getting a new shock (i hear the factory one is pretty sorry)

in terms of straight line performance, the place to start is flapper mod and rev limiter mod (see Rogue mods page). then take a look at some k&n air filters and getting it dyno tuned. that said, youre not gonna get more than about 130HP to the rear wheel without building up the engine internals.
 

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Use stock filters for best power delivery. Check LDH website for the skinny on aftermarket filters.
 

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If I were doing this again my order of priority would be, as pointed out the flappers and zappers first. Ya know, pair valves & associated hose and solenoids and California models had a huge charcoal canister under the front of the motor. By the way the steel bracket that holds the canister can be relived of a 1/2 pound of weight by cutting off the portion the canister attached to. Next on my list 15/41 gearing using AFAM 520 sprockets & DID ERV chain. That approx another 2.5 to 3 pounds gone so with the emission garbage about 5-6 pounds. The gearing change helps drivability especially with a good power commander map since you said you have that already. At this point ya gotta thrown down for a quality rear shock. And that will point out the front forks flaws but they are fixable after a little road trip to DK’s house of bling & unobtanium goodness. Another 5 pounds can be dropped with a lithium battery and I believe that’s the cheapest 5lb weight loss you can do. There’s a lot of little things that add up. I moved the battery to front of motor with the starter solenoid and shortened the associated battery cables. Another pound of cable gone. The rubber pads on the air box weigh about one more pound. I then covered the air box with gold heat reflecting tape. Looks like the lunar lander now. There’s lots of upgrade parts that reduce weight by ounces here and there but light wheels wil have you looking at the bike and wondering where the RC went. It’s that big a change but ……..$3500 for BSTs and magnesium wheels are pushing $4k now. If you come across some Sato slip-ones grab-em. My mods have stretched out over 18 years and I’m still changing stuff but it’s a labor of love. Anyway that’s my nickels worth of advice. I’ll probably do a Viking funeral with my RC That’s how much I enjoy the little piggy.😎
 

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do you mind linking? i'd like to read up on that
That’s the rogue RC51 website previously listed by johnny34. Mike Wheeler had appointed himself Lord Duck Hunter. He comes on here once in awhile to offer his hard gotten wisdom and sometimes to chop the heads of the unfaithful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
that mods page is a great resource.

imo, the best bang for the buck mods are weight reduction and suspension mods because those are the 2 big things that hold the RC back from the newer sportbikes. lighter wheels (forged aluminum, magnesium, etc) make a huge difference as well as getting your fork revalved/resprung and getting a new shock (i hear the factory one is pretty sorry)

in terms of straight line performance, the place to start is flapper mod and rev limiter mod (see Rogue mods page). then take a look at some k&n air filters and getting it dyno tuned. that said, youre not gonna get more than about 130HP to the rear wheel without building up the engine internals.
that mods page is a great resource.

imo, the best bang for the buck mods are weight reduction and suspension mods because those are the 2 big things that hold the RC back from the newer sportbikes. lighter wheels (forged aluminum, magnesium, etc) make a huge difference as well as getting your fork revalved/resprung and getting a new shock (i hear the factory one is pretty sorry)

in terms of straight line performance, the place to start is flapper mod and rev limiter mod (see Rogue mods page). then take a look at some k&n air filters and getting it dyno tuned. that said, youre not gonna get more than about 130HP to the rear wheel without building up the engine internals.
.....I have onlins on the rear,forks have been done,sprockets,520 chain,tires,exhaust,power commander (not tuned)flapper not done yet,do you remove it or unhook the hose
 

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Disconnecting the hose will deactivate the flapper but I prefer to remove it all. On the Rogue RC51 website select mods on the menu list. It’s like the 4th mod listed as flapper valve. There are complete instructions to remove and it’s not too difficult. Always hated all the extra hoses and valves and solenoids mandated by EPA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Disconnecting the hose will deactivate the flapper but I prefer to remove it all. On the Rogue RC51 website select mods on the menu list. It’s like the 4th mod listed as flapper valve. There are complete instructions to remove and it’s not too difficult. Always hated all the extra hoses and valves and solenoids mandated by EPA.
I understand that lol,but thank you much ill look it up.
 

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it is important to do the flapper delete and pair/emissions delete before getting your dyno tune. the flapper changes the amount of air going into the bike obviously and the pair system will give your tuner incorrect air/fuel ratios because it is piping filtered air into your exhaust
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
it is important to do the flapper delete and pair/emissions delete before getting your dyno tune. the flapper changes the amount of air going into the bike obviously and the pair system will give your tuner incorrect air/fuel ratios because it is piping filtered air into your exhaust
Ok I know about the flapper but unaware of the pair system?don't mean to sound dumb but ...lol
 
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