RC51 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 35 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,108 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Im pissed off with my RC at the mo and needs to have a nice big fucking rant!

as all of you know im pretty shit when it comes to mechanical stuff. but a few guys on here have convinced me to have a go at doing some service/winter work to the bike myself, which i was contemplating doing anyway. so opened the garage, took off the rear caliper and replaced the pads (first time for me and it felt pretty good)

took the bike out the garage, both to ride it out for a quick 10 mins to stretch its legs and to see how the wife feels on it as she was a bit uncomfortable last time, and it wouldnt start! kept turning over but wouldnt start, to the point where the battery almost died from trying too hard.

so for the first time since ive owned the rc, i tried to remove the tail myself to get to the battery, to put it on a charge, and ended up snapping the right side of the panel, after trying to be really gentle with it too. so now theres a nice hairline crack near my seat (not very noticable, but its there)

got the battery charged and went out with the wife. she loved it, until the rc decided to run on one cylinder (sounded gut wrenchingly awful) and felt like it was down to 20% power and refuse to rev above 4,000.

decided to get it home quick to cause least stress then the temp warning light went on the dash when i was almost home.

so now the bike is back on the garage till i change the oil and filter and front pads when they arrive. then fire it up again to take (or limp) to my local garage where the spark plugs, (prob whats causing all this) brake fluid and clutch fluid can be changed finally.

but until my oil and pads arrive i dont want to even look at the bike, especially with a nice hairline crack on it.

rant over

thanks for listening :(
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,481 Posts
Yeah that rear cowl is a tight fit and it's quite thin ABS.
I have no idea how I've managed to remove/install mine so many times without damaging it.
It does take some finesses and lots of patience.
Even then I hold my breath at times.

What you can do is order a carbon-fiber replacement rear cowl and panel from Tyga Performance.
Not only is it gorgeous carbon-fiber, but it's cheaper than OEM.
Who can not like that!

http://tyga-performance.com/site/product_info.php?cPath=72_1036_892_893&products_id=1835
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,335 Posts
Sorry for your trouble Polarbear, if at all possible I heat up my garage before removing any plastic pieces.

I know hind sight is a bitch but you are not the only one who has experienced this.:(
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,561 Posts
I have no idea how I've managed to remove/install mine so many times without damaging it.
It does take some finesses and lots of patience.
Even then I hold my breath at times.
Oh man, I have been there SOOOOO many times....Held my breath EVERY time I had to remove the MAWF**KER. This is my main reason for doing my own version of an SP1 cut down race subframe and battery relocate.

Polarbear, Very sorry to hear of your troubles.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,108 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
appreciate that lads, makes me feel a little better. would have got carbon fibre replacement but would have to get it all painted too, and thats too expensive right now.

you guys agree that gettin the spark plugs replaced should sort the running on one cylinder and startup probs?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,617 Posts
Cheer up, mate - Mistakes are how we learn to do things better next time!

It's possible there may be a loose connection somewhere now that would cause the loss of ignition on one cylinder, it's not likely to be spark plugs I think.

Check www.plastex.net and get a repair kit there - this would stop the crack from spreading. Use a wide piece of fresh masking tape to hold the crack together before glueing.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,239 Posts
if you want to just charge the battery, all you have to remove is the rider's seat. Not the rear cowl...I really don't understand why you went through all this trouble.
Anyway, looks like your RC needs some good maintenance.
You said that you were cranking it but it wouldn't start but after charging the battery it started. That tells me that you were cranking it on low battery juice and that was wrong in the first place. Apart from that, cranking it in low batt juice damages your starter clutch as well and I hope you don't have to find out how much it costs to replace that set.

I would recommend you to start reading the service manual up close and understand it well before doing anything on the bike, otherwise you will end up paying a lot of damage control funds just to learn a few "deeper" things on the RC.
For serious works on it, better to take it to a pro and make sure that it is safe above all for you and your wife.
And make sure of your skills on each job you do on it before taking a passenger cause any "half done" job will not have effects only on your safety, God forbid!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,561 Posts
Well said Makis buddy.....Heard through the vine you got that link and speedo healer from our friend Agent Clarke. Enjoy Those friend...I stole the shock!!!:D
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,108 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
looks like the prev owner had a bit too much oil in it too by the looks of it. its slightly above the sighting glass. maybe thats got something to do with it too, like oil getting to the plugs or something.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,561 Posts
looks like the prev owner had a bit too much oil in it too by the looks of it. its slightly above the sighting glass. maybe thats got something to do with it too, like oil getting to the plugs or something.
Is the bike on it's side stand or sitting straight up when you check it ?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,561 Posts
Good man, Just drain a lil wee bit ( makes sure shes warm/hot ) and recheck....was it smoking when it's running ??? If not then there was not enough to cause issues, but check out your oil catch/mist box.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,561 Posts
It is the smaller looking coolant bottle looking thingy, I believe it is under the right side fairing, do not quote me though ( I am not sure, been like 7/8 years since mine was installed ) Check the service manual, if you do not have one...Download one, can't find one...p.m me your email I will send you one. I removed mine and fabricated my own little one after installing the "krankvent".
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,481 Posts
yeah, almost forgot that, wheres the catch tank/box located again mate?
This is a photo showing the crankcase vent catch tank.


The tank is the white-ish plastic part near the right frame spar.
The photo shows the tank with the airbox removed.
The bike front is to the left.

Near the frame spar at top, you can make out the crankcase vent hose leading from the front cylinder valve cover over to the tank.
The short hose sticking up vertically attaches to the airbox where the oil vapors are vented into the engine to be burned.

On the left side of the bike, near the side stand, you'll find a host with a plug and clamp holding it. That's the crankcase vent tank drain hose.

It's good practice to loosen the clamp, pull the plug, and drain the hose every oil change.
Since these two big pistons create a lot crankcase pressure pulses, you will gradually accumulate oil residue down into the hose.
 
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
Top