RC51 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
new here so hi to all
hows everbody doin?

ok first off
i am from london but have been living in holland (haarlem) for the past 25-26years, yep long time i would say,
after 12 years of no bike my heart was set on an vtr sp1 or as you guys know it the rc51.
now i had some problems with this bike here and there and never enough cash to solve them.
bike has been running fairly good apart from no power commander cause them things are not cheap!!
i did a test run on the dyne and saw a massive dip!!
ok thats the flapper mod, so did that, rip the bloody thing out as shown in the rc51org mods page (handy site btw)

ok this was with superpole exhaust.
that seemed to not work wel in low rpm,
now i have some high mount leo vince on and seems much better;-)
now i noticed more in the bottom so was much much easier to pull nice wheelies in first gear with a bit of clutch.

ok last few days i have noticed that wheelies are really hard to do?!? i can barely get the front wheel of the floor,

seems to drive fairly ok but have a feeling the clutch plates are (glazed)
anybody have any experience with this?

i want to swap them out for a barnett race clutch kit,
any info or tips would be welcome guys.

thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,239 Posts
The Barnett Kevlar Clutch Kits work very well in the RC51 especially the SP1 Clutch which had some issues later ironed out in the SP2 version.

The only down side is they are a little grabby when launching hard and they dirty up the oil VERY quickly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The Barnett Kevlar Clutch Kits work very well in the RC51 especially the SP1 Clutch which had some issues later ironed out in the SP2 version.

The only down side is they are a little grabby when launching hard and they dirty up the oil VERY quickly.
compared to the stock clutch plates? much much better?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,239 Posts
The Barnett clutch is a better unit than the SP1 OEM clutch setup

The SP2 clutch is a better unit than the SP1 OEM clutch setup

For street use only I think the SP2 clutch is just fine. For race purposes the Barnett does a better job with launches.

Hope that clarifies things a bit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
The Barnett clutch is a better unit than the SP1 OEM clutch setup

The SP2 clutch is a better unit than the SP1 OEM clutch setup

For street use only I think the SP2 clutch is just fine. For race purposes the Barnett does a better job with launches.

Hope that clarifies things a bit.
yes this is great info thanks.

so the sp1 had clutch problems i understand.
may i ask what kind?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
The SP1 clutch would audibly shriek and slip on hard launches and suffered accelerated wear during the same.
aha so maybe this is whats wrong with my bike right now
sounds like what i have now, feels like its slipping
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,239 Posts
RC51 clutches along with several other Honda models are also very susceptible to contamination from Molybdenum which is an ingredient in many synthetic motor oils. It would soak into the organic fiber plates in the clutch pack and cause excessive slipping. You cannot fix the problem once it starts, you simply have to replace the fiber plates.

Molybdenum was such a problem that Honda reformulated their own branded HP4 Synthetic Oil into 2 versions. One with moly and the other without (WOM).

Man all this info would be excellent for that rc51.org site :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
RC51 clutches along with several other Honda models are also very susceptible to contamination from Molybdenum which is an ingredient in many synthetic motor oils. It would soak into the organic fiber plates in the clutch pack and cause excessive slipping. You cannot fix the problem once it starts, you simply have to replace the fiber plates.

Molybdenum was such a problem that Honda reformulated their own branded HP4 Synthetic Oil into 2 versions. One with moly and the other without (WOM).

Man all this info would be excellent for that rc51.org site :)
well u have some brains i,ll give you that mate.
i use castor rs 4t 10w40

heard from a guy this tends to make the clutch slip;-(
so even just putting em plates would help, but honestly i would like it to at least work wel for a few 1000miles
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,239 Posts
Ya know talking about engine oil is kind of like discussing religion or politics both of which I tend to avoid in a public setting.

I will instead give you some basic opinions of mine based on decades of riding and racing motorcycles

1. I have used OEM brand engine oils like Honda GN4 for hundreds of thousands of miles and have never had a single engine failure related to oil with it.

2. The only engine oil I have ever had an oil related failure with is Castrol. It happened once back in the early 90's and I have never used it since. Probably just a fluke, but why take chances...

3. Repsol has excellent marketing, but a very poor product. I refuse to use it in any of my bikes ever again due to its poor binding characteristics and how quickly it goes off leaving the transmission feeling clunky.

4. Based on actual engine oil analysis and my own personal observations the best oil I have ever used is the Motul 300V Full Synthetic. Do I think you have to use a full synthetic, uber expensive engine oil to prolong the life of your engine? No, but I do use it pretty regularly in my used/abused track only bikes that I beat on like they owe me money.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Ya know talking about engine oil is kind of like discussing religion or politics both of which I tend to avoid in a public setting.

I will instead give you some basic opinions of mine based on decades of riding and racing motorcycles

1. I have used OEM brand engine oils like Honda GN4 for hundreds of thousands of miles and have never had a single engine failure related to oil with it.

2. The only engine oil I have ever had an oil related failure with is Castrol. It happened once back in the early 90's and I have never used it since. Probably just a fluke, but why take chances...

3. Repsol has excellent marketing, but a very poor product. I refuse to use it in any of my bikes ever again due to its poor binding characteristics and how quickly it goes off leaving the transmission feeling clunky.

4. Based on actual engine oil analysis and my own personal observations the best oil I have ever used is the Motul 300V Full Synthetic. Do I think you have to use a full synthetic, uber expensive engine oil to prolong the life of your engine? No, but I do use it pretty regularly in my used/abused track only bikes that I beat on like they owe me money.
forgive me for being a bit duh right now its late.
i am not sure i can use fully synthetic in my rc51??

i found this one
MOTUL 5100 10W40 Synthetic Blend Motorcycle Oil 1 Quart | eBay

is this a good upgrade from the castrol?
i think cooking oil would even be a better choice than castrol ahahahaha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,239 Posts
forgive me for being a bit duh right now its late.
i am not sure i can use fully synthetic in my rc51??

i found this one
MOTUL 5100 10W40 Synthetic Blend Motorcycle Oil 1 Quart | eBay

is this a good upgrade from the castrol?
i think cooking oil would even be a better choice than castrol ahahahaha
Yes you can use Fully Synthetic in the RC51, just be mindful of the aforementioned Moly issue.

Ya got my blessing with that Motul 5100 and almost ironically that is EXACTLY what I put in my own personal RC51 about a week ago...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
& yes I gave the other one to Lucifer in exchange for being able to marry my smokin hot wife who rides faster than most of the guys I know...

She's British btw ;)



wow that are sexy!!!! (brembos i am talking about hahah)

she looks amazing mate!

in my line of work i have had some fairly good looking girls come in the shop i must say.
bonnie rotten was fun as hell
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top