Problem with 2001 RC51

Try and give us a bit more problem symptom description.
A problem usually occurs either due to a failure or by being induced.
If no recent work or changes were done, then it's a failure to some degree.

SubSailor said:

Try and give us a bit more problem symptom description.
A problem usually occurs either due to a failure or by being induced.
If no recent work or changes were done, then it's a failure to some degree.

Click to expand...

I agree but I have know idea where to tell this guy to start looking.

After its warmed up alittle can you push the knob in and ride or do you have to leave it pulled out?

The bike will not idle when warm unless the choke knob is pulled out alittle bit. You have to open the throttle to get it to start both cold or warm. Nothing has been done to it and the bike ran great until last monday.

In the interest of adding more data to the problem...
Have you tried to jumper the service connector to see what possible fault codes are reported on the FI indicator?

no-where is the jumper located and which pins do I jump to get the codes. Is there a site that shows what the codes mean.

On my bike (an SP2), there is a green 2-pole connector near the ECU.
With the ignition off, jumper the two contacts, then turn the ignition switch on.
You should see the FI indicator flash in sequence of blinks if any codes are found.
There's a slight paused between sets of codes, so watch carefully.
Also, it keeps a history of codes, so you may be fooled by a past problem that wasn't cleared.
Count the blinks and let us know.

I got a honda man. with my bike. My god its like a bible! How the diag. stuff is like an older OBD on a car. And you can count the numb of flashes the FI light makes and it gives you an idea where to start the diag.

Yellow: Get the manual, it would make finding things out easier. Sub knows his stuff on these monsters! He can prob help you.

Allen03RC said:

I got a honda man. with my bike. My god its like a bible! How the diag. stuff is like an older OBD on a car. And you can count the numb of flashes the FI light makes and it gives you an idea where to start the diag.

Yellow: Get the manual, it would make finding things out easier. Sub knows his stuff on these monsters! He can prob help you.

Click to expand...

You're far too kind.
I only know what I know from having mine in pieces last year.
A lot of work, but I really enjoyed getting my hands dirty again.

Well, sub remember when I thought I had a pinhole in my left Rad? Well, come to find out it was the clamp going from head to head. SO I took all the plastic off, and tightened up ALL of the hose clamps. Found out that it took care of my leak! So that saved me alot of cash from buying a rad. So I took that money and bought an undertail kit! I will post when I get it in the mail and installed!

Okay here are the codes it is throwing: 1 long-1 short light, 1 long-3 short and 1 long 4 short. If anyone can help let me know please and thanks for everyones help so far. It will start and run okay when cold but the minute it warms up it will not idle or start unless you give it some gas or leave the idle pulled out alittle bit.

Allen03RC said:

Well, sub remember when I thought I had a pinhole in my left Rad? Well, come to find out it was the clamp going from head to head. SO I took all the plastic off, and tightened up ALL of the hose clamps. Found out that it took care of my leak! So that saved me alot of cash from buying a rad. So I took that money and bought an undertail kit! I will post when I get it in the mail and installed!

Click to expand...

Was it the clamp for the left radiator? Those are notorious for coming loose and causing leaks.
I know when I reassembled my cooling system I made all clamps were nice and tight. So far, no problems.

yellow00tlr said:

Okay here are the codes it is throwing: 1 long-1 short light, 1 long-3 short and 1 long 4 short. If anyone can help let me know please and thanks for everyones help so far. It will start and run okay when cold but the minute it warms up it will not idle or start unless you give it some gas or leave the idle pulled out alittle bit.

Click to expand...

A long blink (on for approx 1.3 sec) equals a 10.
So you've got codes 11, 13, and 14.
Fault codes:
11 = Problem with vehicle speed sensor. Loose or poor connection, open or short, or problem in speed sensor itself.
But the engine will still run.

13 = Problems with injector 1-2. Loose or poor connection, open or short in injector wiring, or bad injector. Engine will NOT start.

14 = Same as 13 but for injector 2-1. Engine will NOT start.

This may help, or it may not. Check for rat damage. In the car world I've replaced a BUNCH of harness' due to rats, mice.
Just my 2cents

Do not have rat damage but the owner before me sure did some weird wiring. I have found a few wires that were spliced into the main harness that did not go anywhere but had a bare wire at the end. I have cut all them down and taped off the ends so will see if that works. He also used speaker wire for the turn signals so need to fix that also. How do you clear the codes? Do you disconnect the battery for a few minutes or if not how do you. Thanks for all the help.

close to the battery there is a small 2 pin connector. You jumper those 2 together, I think with the ignition on. Sub may have to clear that up. and it should rest.

The connector is green I think

yellow00tlr said:

Do not have rat damage but the owner before me sure did some weird wiring. I have found a few wires that were spliced into the main harness that did not go anywhere but had a bare wire at the end. I have cut all them down and taped off the ends so will see if that works. He also used speaker wire for the turn signals so need to fix that also. How do you clear the codes? Do you disconnect the battery for a few minutes or if not how do you. Thanks for all the help.

Click to expand...

To clear the existing ECM fault codes (read the steps before attempting):
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. Jumper the service connector contacts.
3. Turn ignition key ON.
4. With ignition key ON, remove jumper from service connector.
5. The MIL (FI) light will light for approximately .5 seconds.
6. During the time the MIL light is lit, jumper the service connector again.
The self-diagnostic memory is erased if the MIL indicator starts blinking.
Note: The service connector MUST be jumpered while MIL indicator is lit or or MIL will not start blinking.
7. Do NOT turn ignition switch to OFF before the MIL starts blinking!
8. If the MIL blinks 20 times, the self-diagnostic memory has NOT been erased.

Idling problems.

I just wanted to say thanks to Ya'll. I never put any thing on here but, I was haviing a bad problem with My '01 honda RC. It didn't want to idle but seemed to run ok at higher RPMs (although running rich). After reading about someone elses problem. I discovered it was the Fuel Pressure Regulator. I bought a new one. Put it in and that did the trick. So if this is your problem. a new fuel pressure regulator. I'll even give you the part No. 16740-MCF-013. Thanks alot.

Ryan