RC51 Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Bought this switch off eBay and it has 5 pins for (+) (-) (NO) (NC) (C). My question is.... how do I get this indicator light on the switch to turn off? It would still be lighted unles I disconnect the - or + wire. I’m only familiar with those switches that has ground. Thanks for the help...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,643 Posts
the - is the ground....




i'm going to go ahead and assume that you want it lit when the switch is on, and not lit when the switch is off.

i'm also going to assume you'll be using the normally open circuit.





take the positive from what you want to switch to C

take the wire going to what you want switched on to NO

run a wire from NO to +

run the - to ground




when you close the switch, whatever you are powering on gets power, as does the indicator light, when you open the switch it powers off the indicator light and whatever you were trying to switch off.






very very simple.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
the - is the ground....




i'm going to go ahead and assume that you want it lit when the switch is on, and not lit when the switch is off.

i'm also going to assume you'll be using the normally open circuit.





take the positive from what you want to switch to C

take the wire going to what you want switched on to NO

run a wire from NO to +

run the - to ground




when you close the switch, whatever you are powering on gets power, as does the indicator light, when you open the switch it powers off the indicator light and whatever you were trying to switch off.






very very simple.

Got it... thanks Wibbly. It works. You’re the man!!! I was working on the wiring yesterday and now I have another issue. Bike would just shuts down as if I turn the key off ignition and this's what I did.
I use a cable kit with relay for independent switch that connect straight from battery to power up both HIDs.

Here are the two things I think I did wrong
1. Using one wiring kit for both HIDs instead of 2.
2. When I wire the (+) wire from ballast to the power (+), it wasn’t necessary for me to hook the (-) wire from the ballast to the power cuz HIDs would turn on. I made some research and a guy had the same problem with his car and he was told that he has a grounding problem. Now if that same problem is what I have, am I suppose to ground both negative tinstead of connecting them together?
I hope I explain my situation clear enough.... btw when the bike shuts off, I checked for blown fuse and all is good. All I had to do is to wait for 5-10 minutes and the bike would start right up but than (say) 5-10 minuets later the same problem occurred.

I hope I explained the situation well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,643 Posts
Of course you have to connect the negatives to ground. That's the whole point. Not connecting them to ground is the equivalent of not connecting the positives to power.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Of course you have to connect the negatives to ground. That's the whole point. Not connecting them to ground is the equivalent of not connecting the positives to power.
Weird thing is, the HIDs would still be on even just by connecting the (+) from HIDs to power. Could it possibly cuz the angel/demon eyes HIDs projectors kit also run its wire to straight from the battery and maybe that’s a reason why it’s already grounded?

I draw a diagram the best that I could remember in detail and hope this shows what I might’ve done wrong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
As it turn out it was loose connection on the (+) terminal.

And the 2 (-) wires goes t ground (body).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Well, the projector kit that I bought with relay wiring kit. I know I can always control the projectors by using the oem left control but than it’d be too crowded under the upper fairing or the sides due to extra box controllers for the projector (4 extra box on top of 2 ballasts). Ohhh and plus, the relay kit must be connected to battery AND a separate power supply like the license plate terminal (which I have to split).

As a matter of fact, it actually better that way cuz now I can use the headlights circuitry for the running lights (low beam) and halos on high beam (for some reason I don’t like calling it ”angels eyes”).

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,643 Posts
i still don't see why you'd have to run three lines from the battery. but if you like it that way then that's all that matters i guess.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top