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Discussion Starter #1
when the bike is cold it shifts from 1st to 2nd no problem BUT when it heats up it goes from 1st to N - will not go passed neutral - ANY THOUGHTS:confused::confused:
 

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Well generally when you have problems its going into second and kicking back to neutral. This is caused by worn dog ears on the 2nd and 6th gears as they mesh together. You could possibly have worn or bent shift forks but the evo shift kit is this....

stiffer shift spring, detent arm with micro bearings, and shift star. THis replaces all your stock parts, very easy to install but does require removing the entire clutch basket. The parts provide a positive and much smoother shift. I use them on all my bikes!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
1st to 2nd

my only has 9,000miles - is that normal for the shift forks to wear out that soon?
do have to replace the shift forks also when installing the Evo Kit?
 

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I install them pretty much as soon as I get my bikes new or used. 9000 miles isnt a lot but its all based on how you shift. I have seen shift forks bent with less miles because people dont really know how to ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Rc51

bought the bike used - i know it was down (trashed) - i've only put 50 miles on it when it starting the shifting problem - it had gas in it when i bought it and when the gas light came on i went to put gas in the tank - HORROR - i have never seen such as bucket of rust - bought a tank off this forum - thought i was ready to go - considered selling BUT i won't sale something that's not right - once repaired will probably keep - will install the Evo Kit
Thank You
 

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Hate to burst your bubble but if you have a bent shift fork(s) and or worn gear dogs, the shift kit will do nothing to fix your problem.

Repairing said shift forks or gear dogs warrants a motor drop and tear down..its lots of work, I would take it to a shop to get a diagnosis. Pick yourself up off the ground when they quote you cost of parts and labour and see if you can find someone to help you and do it yourself if you're so inclined.

I have done many, many motor transmission jobs but I'm in Canada.

Good luck
 

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Since it works fine cold, fluid may be the issue. When fluid get hot it seaps by the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder pistons and doesn't displace the clutch rod correctly. Check the condition of both the clutch system's cylinders rubber components and and fluid condition, it may have tell-tale signs of debris, especially at the bottom of the reservoir. You'll have to get a 50 mm deep snap ring pliers to do the job (Motion Pro).
 

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Both are great suggestions, no way did I mean to suggest you drop the motor first...I meant take it to a place to get a diagnosis, the internet will only give you so much help.

In the end it boils down to hands on I can't hear it or ride it or even do a couple of tests just to eliminate parts of the equation.

If you cannot diagnose and then repair said problem it probably won't go away and if it's worse than you thought then it's not long until something really happens and your out the riding season because of because...

Do what you need to do if she is worth the money to you to get her checked out then find a reputable place and I hope all goes well.
 

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What kind of oil is in the bike? Molybdenum is not good for the clutch plates


Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app
 

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Discussion Starter #15
1St to 2nd

Thanks to all members of this Forum who responded to my questions

The clutch fluid was Sludge and the motor oil was worse

Clucth was bleed and new fluid installed along with new motor oil & filter

Shifts Great - No Problems

Good Luck & GoodBye
 
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