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Discussion Starter #1
So as summer approaches, I have finally gotten my tracking a fairings for the RC. A buddy of mine happened to have two uppers and two lower fairings, were not sure of the brand but they're pretty sturdy, very dusty and unfortunately scratched ;(

My goal is to plasti dip my Rc. I've already and plainly plasti dipped (spray can) parts of my bike that aren't scratched, such as the front & back tire huggers. My tank is also plasti dipped. Although I didn't really like the way the paint came out because the paint itself would be bubbly once I started to apply a light or thick coat with distance. No matter how long I shook the can or sprayed from a distance, the paint would be bubbly and therefore create texture, but that's a different story.

To get to the point, I want to sand down the upper and lower fairings so it's one whole flat surface, that way when I apply plasti dip, the scratches are not visible and the fairings end up being a nice flat surface so the paint looks nice!

Any recommendations on going about this process? What kind of sand paper, how many different grits do I use, etc. Here are some photos to give you ideas of the scratches.
Oh yeah and I used zip ties to hold the fairings in place until I get the fasteners lol so don't judge! Also, don't be fooled by quality of the photos :) work in progress! View attachment 50913
View attachment 50881 View attachment 50889
View attachment 50897 View attachment 50905


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It really depends on how thick the gouges are. If they are real bad, sand it out as best as possible but then use bondo or a bumper filler to fill in the bad stuff and keep the fairings structural integrity. Then sand and shape it.

Be sure to remove any paint chips or thick built up areas of paint. You want to get as close to the original fairing material as possible. If it is only one coat of paint on there that is sticking well and not peeling chipping, then just scuff it/sand it really good.

For medium scratches start with a medium/light grain and wet sand it out gradually going to a very fine grain to finish it out. When doing all this just keep in mind to blend everything together, focus on the area not just the gouge itself , if that makes sense.

For light scratches use a fine grain and wet sand it out.

Once you are happy with the lines etc. do a very fine grain wet sand or use a fine scuff pad over everything with some thing like this.

http://www.vinnybyrne.com/3m-scuff-it-matt-gel-50018.html

This ensures a nice clean surface which will prevent things like fish eyes etc. in your paint and will also make sure the primer/paint sticks and lasts long.

scuff the fairing up and use a gel/paste like the one above to clean/degrease/prep for primer. Wash with water, dry off, and lay down your primer. Scuff the primer, wash and dry and then lay down paint. Once dried lay down a clear coat to make it last.
 

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Major thing to remember is if you paint anything, including original paint, that has a shine then the paint will not stick, lay right right, or will peel easily. Scuff and clean everything really good.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I learned that the hard way when I did the tank and solo seat cowl.... The paint would just not stick and I had to make it thicker.

I'm using 1500 grit sand paper right now with water and smoothing everything out real nice


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yeah, get some scuff pads. They are key for a good prep when the sanding is all done.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So I have this can of primer, and it's also white. I was just thinking about spraying a coat or two with it and then plasti dipping over it. Quick and easy and hopefully looks decent


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Yeah that should work fine. Post pics when you are done.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So here is what I got for my first time. Sanded with 1500, finished it with 400, cleaned the fairing with rubingn alcohol, used 1 can of white primer. It really narrowed down with which cracks are in need of repair. I'm guessing I can patch the cracks, sand those spots and prime it again.
You can see them from up close but I'm sure from a distance it looks nice.

ImageUploadedByMotorcycle1395361681.356816.jpg I'm not sure if I should do another coat of white primer before I plasti dip it. Or should I just go for the plasti dip now? ImageUploadedByMotorcycle1395361636.704797.jpg ImageUploadedByMotorcycle1395361659.823536.jpg


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Do one more sand (especially after filling tiny scratches) and do another layer of primer and should be perfect.

Looks good though.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So here's the outcome. I did one last sand with a 400 grit water proof sandpaper, and then primed with flat white primer one last time. Going to let it dry and plasti dip it.

I'm really worried about the quality of the dip and that it will stick on my fairing in a bubble texture.


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Start with 120 and prep all the gouges and surrounding areas. Fill with a fine surface filler. After 20 minutes, sand down with 400; sand the whole panel with 400 once you are happy the gouges are sorted. Prime with an etch primer, allow to dry. Dust a light guide coat of darker (black usually) paint over the whole panel (shows any low spots/scratches etc). Flat with 400 until all the guide coat is gone, and the primer is uniform. If you have gone through to plastic anywhere spray a bit more etch on. Lightly sand the new etch once dry with 400, if you are now happy the panel give it a couple of coats of normal primer, then sand again with 400 until uniform. Don't sand wet, that's old school, keep it all dry. Start the colour coats with a light coat first, don't worry about coverage. Build up three coats until the whole panel has an even coating. If you are using proper paint, then you can flat out any dust/marks with 1500 wet, the polish with a finishing compound. Don't know about plasticoat I've never used it.

One quick note, you mention bubbling when painting, this is usually down to waiting too long between coats. Check the manufactures guidelines for time between coats, if you miss the re-coat time wait until the cure time plus twelve hours, then key with 600 and repaint.

Job done.
 

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Start with 120 and prep all the gouges and surrounding areas. Fill with a fine surface filler. After 20 minutes, sand down with 400; sand the whole panel with 400 once you are happy the gouges are sorted. Prime with an etch primer, allow to dry. Dust a light guide coat of darker (black usually) paint over the whole panel (shows any low spots/scratches etc). Flat with 400 until all the guide coat is gone, and the primer is uniform. If you have gone through to plastic anywhere spray a bit more etch on. Lightly sand the new etch once dry with 400, if you are now happy with the panel give it a couple of coats of normal primer, then sand again with 400 until uniform. Don't sand wet, that's old school, keep it all dry. Start the colour coats with a light coat first, don't worry about coverage. Build up three coats until the whole panel has an even coating. If you are using proper paint, then you can flat out any dust/marks with 1500 wet, the polish with a finishing compound. Don't know about plasticoat I've never used it.

One quick note, you mention bubbling when painting, this is usually down to waiting too long between coats. Check the manufactures guidelines for time between coats, if you miss the re-coat time wait until the cure time plus twelve hours, then key with 600 and repaint.

Job done.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I think it's just the plasti dip with the issue of painting. It instantly comes out bubbly, even when I start painting. I already plasti dipped the fairing, and I'm not too happy with it, I feel like I might be happier just peeling the dip, sanding the fairing and then repriming it, and instead of flat black plasti dip I'll just use flat black paint.

ImageUploadedByMotorcycle1395438861.738112.jpg


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Not sure what happened with the double post. Mods feel free to delet one.

Like I said, not used plasticoat, the stuff I use doesn't come out of an aerosol. Have you tried warming the can slightly? Sometimes works with aerosols, just put it in hot water for ten minutes then try it. Use this trick for textured plastic trim/bumper paint to match the OEM texture (warmer = finer texture).
 
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