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Discussion Starter #1
Guys...
As I am going through my parts and getting ready to install my scotts damper.
I got the damper itself from allchaos and I am happy with it.
As some may know I had to locate an SP1 mounting kit. I was going to buy new from scotts but I decided to buy a used mount kit from Varium for $120 shipped,for which I could of bought new from scotts for another $50 gold coins.
Well, I am not one to BASH people at all, and am a pretty mellow guy all together but when it arrived I WAS NOT HAPPY. I tried to speak to him nice about it but was ignored, unacceptable from a seller here.
RANT WARNING !!!!
I am Warning all who may buy from the guy to !!!!BEWARE!!!! he has an uncalled for attitude, next to no communication, and his price's are all over priced. I should of just bought new. He beat around the bush with sending proper picture's of all parts too.
He sent to me a downright MANGLED stem nut ( I will post pic's ) which will have to be replaced and mismatched length bolts and this tank mount part/pin that is rust seized to all hell.
RANT OVER.....
Not impressed with it and just thought people here should be aware of his all together crap.
Back on topic, this part in the pic, Is the pin supposed to be free moving or as 1 piece ???? I do not know for sure, and would rather ask before trying anything with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I can fix that...
Fix what exactly:confused:, Varium:confused::p:rolleyes: LOL
or to make it more clear, the pin is supposed to be free moving is it not ??
If so.... I was planning to soak it in wd40 or something likewise....
I am sure I can manage I just am not sure....yet
please elaborate Chaos.....
 

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Sorry to hear about your experience. Aside from that, AFAIK the pin is not supposed to move. The damper has the moving parts.
 

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Duck, you need a small container, Seafoam Deep Creep, to soak the the part for a day or two.
Brass hammer, and 10mm 3/8 socket to use as a "tap/press.. Little taps, little taps.. until the pin comes free.
Sheet of 120 grit, 600 grit, and a tube of Honda metal polish, six cue-tips, electric drill.
Once the pin is free, -Then start with the 120 grit paper, polish, then the 600 grit and polish, then honda polish.
The mount/bracket clean with brake/or carberator cleaner... Then take a pair of scissors and cut the cue-tips in half... Chuck the stick part of the cue-tip in the electric drill.. With the Honda polish -polish the inside sleeve of the bracket. until the pin slides thru freely..
Not excusing the item you received, or the seller.. Yet I have received about six mounting kits in about the same condition.... Let me know if I can help you...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry to hear about your experience. Aside from that, AFAIK the pin is not supposed to move. The damper has the moving parts.
Thanks for your condolences regarding the seller, he is one in a million:rolleyes:...and not in a positive way, so I am not overly worried about a repeat experience. I just wanted to warn others.
Thanks for your info as well, appreciated.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Duck, you need a small container, Seafoam Deep Creep, to soak the the part for a day or two.
Brass hammer, and 10mm 3/8 socket to use as a "tap/press.. Little taps, little taps.. until the pin comes free.
Sheet of 120 grit, 600 grit, and a tube of Honda metal polish, six cue-tips, electric drill.
Once the pin is free, -Then start with the 120 grit paper, polish, then the 600 grit and polish, then honda polish.
The mount/bracket clean with brake/or carberator cleaner... Then take a pair of scissors and cut the cue-tips in half... Chuck the stick part of the cue-tip in the electric drill.. With the Honda polish -polish the inside sleeve of the bracket. until the pin slides thru freely..
Not excusing the item you received, or the seller.. Yet I have received about six mounting kits in about the same condition.... Let me know if I can help you...
That is very helpful of you Chaos my friend;):D. Thank you for that walk-through on how to free it up and prevent it from happening again.
Awesome information. I am sure others will use this method as well.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
the stem nut I am unhappy with.....

Am I over reacting here guys:confused:, Honestly:confused: I do not think so....
Like I said I am a very mellow guy but this just irked me the wrong way.
I suppose it could work and do what it is supposed to do, but when I tried to test fit it....well _______ . Yeah...imagination can fill in the blank.
 

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Duck , Kano s product Kroil will work on that, at freeing it up, if you can find it . The stuff is incredable . Sorry to hear of your disappointment :(
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Duck , Kano s product Kroil will work on that, at freeing it up, if you can find it . The stuff is incredable . Sorry to hear of your disappointment :(
Honestly C.Codder I have never heard of it, been working on most things mechanically related for 20+yrs too:confused:....
Engaging Google search engineee.........now.
I am interested.
 

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AFAIK the pin is not supposed to move. The damper has the moving parts.
I do not wish to get into a debate.. If you read the original installation of the Scotts damper/ and installation of mounts.. The pin is to move free and Scotts supplies a silicone grease to put on the pin, during the installation.. I am just saying..
2 RC-51s and 2 Shawks all have Scotts damper installed- all pins move..
 

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Am I over reacting here guys:confused:, Honestly:confused: I do not think so....
Like I said I am a very mellow guy but this just irked me the wrong way.
I suppose it could work and do what it is supposed to do, but when I tried to test fit it....well _______ . Yeah...imagination can fill in the blank.
Looks like someone used an open ended spanner on that, or even a monkey wrench... instead of a correctly sized socket. Not sure why there are drilled marks. Decoration? :confused::rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Looks like someone used an open ended spanner on that, or even a monkey wrench... instead of a correctly sized socket. Not sure why there are drilled marks. Decoration? :confused::rolleyes:
Yup you guessed it Stig...He/P.O of it must have used a uni-wrench on it, then FAILED HORRIBLE on lining up the stem nut with the scotts damper mount allen key positions and just tightened it down wayyyyyy to hard creating those what look like drill marks...they are marks from the little hex screws being in the incorrect place's.
It is not something that should have been sold in a "used kit" for $120 dollars IMO
It is a paper weight/scrap aluminum.......
I am gonna find another, so not mounting my damper until then......
 

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Monkey wrenching by a gorilla... :eek:

Probolt USA sells a stem nut (Aluminium?) that fits the SP1 in a choice of colours.
 

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I am a electrician in the nuke industry and the millwrights and us electricians work on MOVs ( motor operated valves ) and such and on occasion bolts etc get frozen on and we use Kroil to loosen stuff and I must say the best above all other penetrating oils . It is available . It's not anything that you cannot get . You probably won't even have to let it sit for long
 

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That nut actually doesn't look too bad compared to mine, but mine is an SP2. It looked like mine was beat on with a screwdriver when I got it. He still should have given you better pictures if the stuff was in that shape.

Did you try and knock the pin out with a hammer? Still probably a good idea to soak it though.

What does a new nut cost from Scotts? At this point you might want to just toss all the stuff you bought and buy a new kit and be done with it. You also might be able to file a PayPal dispute if you paid that way. They have that option for this very situation. Obviously you don't want to toss that stuff in the garbage if you are going to file a claim.
 

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And yes, the pin is supposed to move! It is supposed to be able to rotate, and you should also be able to pull it out of the fitting by hand. The plastic collar on it is fit tight to adjust the height of the pin in the bracket. The instructions specifically say to use a hammer and tap the pin in the bracket to adjust the height of the pin.

As far as I can tell, the reason for the pin rotating is that if the damper body is off by even the slightest bit with respect to the steering stem axis, then the pin needs to be able to rotate to prevent binding.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Monkey wrenching by a gorilla... :eek:

Probolt USA sells a stem nut (Aluminium?) that fits the SP1 in a choice of colours.
[email protected] comment:D, I am looking into that....Thanks Stig:D

I am a electrician in the nuke industry and the millwrights and us electricians work on MOVs ( motor operated valves ) and such and on occasion bolts etc get frozen on and we use Kroil to loosen stuff and I must say the best above all other penetrating oils . It is available . It's not anything that you cannot get . You probably won't even have to let it sit for long
Interesting profession;) Gonna check the autoparts store here, and go from there with it.

That nut actually doesn't look too bad compared to mine, but mine is an SP2. It looked like mine was beat on with a screwdriver when I got it. He still should have given you better pictures if the stuff was in that shape.

Did you try and knock the pin out with a hammer? Still probably a good idea to soak it though.

What does a new nut cost from Scotts? At this point you might want to just toss all the stuff you bought and buy a new kit and be done with it. You also might be able to file a PayPal dispute if you paid that way. They have that option for this very situation. Obviously you don't want to toss that stuff in the garbage if you are going to file a claim.
I have not tried anything yet, I have it soaking for a lil bit in motul5100 oil.:cool: that i have left over from last oil change. A new stem nut for SP1 is $75 plus shipping from scotts, have not looked for the pro bolt one yet.perhaps I should go with the gold one;) to so entice you:p
I am still gonna use everything but the stem nut and the mis-matched length bolts that were sent, will also polish everything up to bling status before using. I am not out to be an arse over it, and not looking to create a drama, well:rolleyes:.....not a huge drama over it anyways. Just letting you all know what happened, and that I think it was unfair as a buyer should get quality used items instead of hidden defects as a surprise after your coin is gone.
P.S....your avatar got my wife laughing!!!! LMAO
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
And yes, the pin is supposed to move! It is supposed to be able to rotate, and you should also be able to pull it out of the fitting by hand. The plastic collar on it is fit tight to adjust the height of the pin in the bracket. The instructions specifically say to use a hammer and tap the pin in the bracket to adjust the height of the pin.

As far as I can tell, the reason for the pin rotating that if the damper body is off by even the slightest bit with respect to the steering stem axis, then the pin needs to be able to rotate to prevent binding.
Thanks for confirming that it should rotate along with Chaos.....
And in my brain it seems it would need to rotate to prevent binding as well....again thanks for confirming that.
 

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If you decide that you want some Kano Kroil, look for it at gun shops and places that sell gunsmithing and cleaning supplies. I know that Brownells has it, that is where I got my can. It is incredible stuff.
 
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