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Discussion Starter #1
So I have installed my Scotts damper on my SP2 - standard mounting - nothing outside of the instructions done. Having paced the pin holder between the rubber grommets (between the tank and stay) as instructed - this, by default, raises the tank the distance represented by the thickness of the pin holder. The end result is a little wobble in the tank as it is now off it's resting points on the frame and airbox by that distance as well.

Am I missing something? Is this one of those "is what it is" things, or is there a solution to be had to this? I am not sure I am willing to live with it long term. Wasn't an issue on my SP1 as the pin holder mounts on top of the tank in that installation so I sure didn't see it coming.
 

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I remember a goofy dogbone washer that came with my kit and I also remember wiping my ass with the instructions and arranging the pin holder so that my tank seated and the pin sat where it should ...hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I played with the position of the bracket - no bueno - for me anyway. Ultimately - it would need to sit on TOP of the tank, but this puts the boss where the pin sits in conflict with the arm itself. Thinking maybe going to a SP1 pin mount would solve the problem as that one sits much lower - the pin is recessed into the bracket and not sticking out above it. The dogbone washer is only necessary if your cross bar on the fairing stay is welded on lower than usual. Raises the stay a bit to clear the damper. Mine clears just fine so no washer necessary.

If you get the chance - a pic of the way yours is mounted would be worth a thousand words!
 

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Here's how I have mine set up.
The lower rubber grommets are fitted on the fairing stay with a shouldered washer. The shoulder goes all the way down to the top clamp.
Then the gas tank grommets with no washer, then the wishbone bracket and bolts.
As you can see, my grommets are a little tattered, but this setup works pretty good for me.
And if it makes any difference, this is a SP1. Shouldn't matter though...



 

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Discussion Starter #9
You guys rock! Thanks for the idea on flipping the bracket over. Hadn't even occurred to me - I will give that a shot.
 

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Always learning something new. My SP2 came with all this when I bought it. I checked my bike after reading the thread and sure enough the tank is a little off the frame with a bit of play. Not really noticeable though and hasn't been a problem.

Still, I thought I'd give the flipped tank bracket suggestion a try. A PITA as my blue loctite essentially glued the shoulder washers to the bolts. But once I got tank mount apart and rejigged things, it seems the flipped tank bracket works and works well. The tank is now against the frame spars nicely and the pin in the tank bracket has no problem working with the link arm on the stabilizer. I did adjust the plastic spacer on the pin so that not much of the pin comes through the bottom, without interfering with the link arm up top either. Too much of the pin out the bottom and on my setup it may hit the fairing stay mount.

The fairing stay cross brace appears to be a little closer to the damper than I remember. But my front fairing is off and until I remount it I won't be able to see if that spacing has changed in reality. I'm thinking it hasn't once everything is back on.

Thx for all the helpful posts and the thread.

Just want to also mention an obvious tip that we often dismiss....never force a bolt in. Those tank bolts are a PITA to put in and easy to cross thread. One of mine was giving some resistance, and I was tempted to let er rip. But thankfully I backed off and pulled things apart. I used a die to run through the bolt threads and it turned out they were a little rough. Once I cleaned up the bolt threads the bolt went in much smoother and I didn't even need to tap the bolt holes in the frame to clean them up.

And Scott's is correct to blue loctite everything on this install.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I checked my bike after reading the thread and sure enough the tank is a little off the frame with a bit of play. Not really noticeable though and hasn't been a problem though.
I am like 5' nothing tall with T-rex arms so for me - the tank is central to my body position and my pivot when I go shifting weight across the bike at track pace. Left turn - right elbow/knee on tank. Right turn - left elbow/knee on tank. Would be a BIG issue for me if it wasn't sitting firmly which is why it jumped right out to me immediately when I installed it.

Thanks for verifying the bracket fitment - can't wait to get off work today so I can make this swap and see how it comes out for my setup.
 

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Always learning something new. My SP2 came with all this when I bought it. I checked my bike after reading the thread and sure enough the tank is a little off the frame with a bit of play. Not really noticeable though and hasn't been a problem.

Still, I thought I'd give the flipped tank bracket suggestion a try. A PITA as my blue loctite essentially glued the shoulder washers to the bolts. But once I got tank mount apart and rejigged things, it seems the flipped tank bracket works and works well. The tank is now against the frame spars nicely and the pin in the tank bracket has no problem working with the link arm on the stabilizer. I did adjust the plastic spacer on the pin so that not much of the pin comes through the bottom, without interfering with the link arm up top either. Too much of the pin out the bottom and on my setup it may hit the fairing stay mount.

The fairing stay cross brace appears to be a little closer to the damper than I remember. But my front fairing is off and until I remount it I won't be able to see if that spacing has changed in reality. I'm thinking it hasn't once everything is back on.

Thx for all the helpful posts and the thread.

Just want to also mention an obvious tip that we often dismiss....never force a bolt in. Those tank bolts are a PITA to put in and easy to cross thread. One of mine was giving some resistance, and I was tempted to let er rip. But thankfully I backed off and pulled things apart. I used a die to run through the bolt threads and it turned out they were a little rough. Once I cleaned up the bolt threads the bolt went in much smoother and I didn't even need to tap the bolt holes in the frame to clean them up.

And Scott's is correct to blue loctite everything on this install.
Yeah, those bolts can be a pain if you don't take your time. I usually drop the bolt down in and shift everything around until it starts, then start the other one before tightening down the first one.

If the bracket was under the fairing stay before, that would raise the fairing stay up away from the damper body. Mine sat fairly close, but never touched.

I noticed right away that the tank wasn't as stable when I installed mine (way back before the streetfighter conversion). I also didn't like that the rubber dampers on either side of the tank were no longer touching the frame.
 

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Ya, those are good suggestions in getting a bolt to thread. In my case, I was doing that multiple times and with wiggling I could get the bolt to set, but I couldn't further tighten the bolt by finger, indicating abnormal tightening resistance. It wasn't huge, but I was smart enough to stop and determine the issue, fix it, and not cross thread anything. One does not want to strip out frame threads.


^^ the bracket on the SP1 kits was about double the thickness where the tank bolts go through.
That shouldn't matter right, since the bracket is on top of everything?
I'm wondering why you pulled out one set of shoulder washers JD9? Is is because the bolt was too short and you needed to squish the setup to get more thread bite?

I'm asking because with my SP2 bracket inverted it has tons of thread even with all the shoulder washers in it. I ended up adding a washer to each bolt on top of my inverted bracket as well.


Another option to the OP, if one wants to keep the pin mount bracket between the tank and the fairing bracket, is to grind down some of the shoulder on the shoulder washers. At their stock spec height the shoulder washers prevent any compression of the rubber grommets. The tank is lifted off by the addition of the pin mount braket as per Scott instructions. So by allowing the grommets to compress some, a person can make up for thickness of the pin mount bracket. Since the SP2 bracket is thin, it looks like an option. Maybe not for the SP1.

One would take a measurement of the thickness of the pin mount bracket, and grind the tank shoulder spacers height down by half of that. Then do the same to the fair stay should spacers. That way, grinding the two sets of shoulder washers would distribute the amount cut off equally between the two sets of grommets, allowing compression of the overall setup so that the tank would sit back down to the stock level.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Brilliant gents. Flipped the bracket and everything worked just fine. I went ahead and made an adjustment to the plastic ring holding the pivot shaft to raise it up a little for good measure - it wasn't really sticking, but looked close enough to make a little tap with a deep socket worth the effort for a wee bit of clearance.
 

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Scottm, are you using the stock bolts there? My Scotts kit came with longer bolts to account for the pin bracket.

It looks like your shoulder washer is on top as well and through the pin bracket, as a grommet below looks squished because of the gap created by the moved shoulder washer. On mine I kept the shoulder washers with the grommets and no grommets are squished. In my setup I noticed that my bottom tank lip get's close to the twin spar frame, so I'm glad that there is no movement with the original shoulder washer placement. You may want to check that out.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You are correct. It's not permanently installed - more of a "mock up" as it stands right now. If you look closely you will also notice that not all of the set screws are tight on the yoke adapter also. I really just wanted to verify the fitment and also get a visual on the washer on top. Everything is just hand tight right now. I am indeed using the stock bolts for this phase. I bought mine second hand and it did not come with the 6x50 bolts. While the stockers still give a reasonable amount of thread engagement, I have a pro-bolt order coming that, in addition to new fork hardware, also has longer bolts and a washer as shown in the picture - wanted a little more surface area under that bolt head up top.

What you can't see in the pics is half of the bike spread out all over the garage in boxes and ziplock baggies LOL
 
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